S u p e r S t a r    4   T r o u b l e   S h o o t i n g   G u i d e

To identify the type of machine, it has 4 black sewing heads with six needles each. The model number will be: 373007-01/02

THE MACHINE WON'T COME ON. THE DISPLAY IS BLANK:

1. Check the power source. Make sure it is a working outlet.
2. Make sure it's plugged in.
3. Check to see if the fan on the Gray Power Box under the right side of the machine is on, and the Main Drive Motor also. If not, try replacing the (Ceramic 15A Slo-Blo fuse) inside the Power Entry Module at the rear of the machine where the power cord connects to the machine. There is a small plastic panel under the power cord connector. Remove it, and find the fuse inside. There is a slender silver bar next to where the fuse is mounted. If it is black & blue or pitted, the Power Entry Module where the fuse and bar are will need to be replaced (PN# 222983-01). Call your distributor for the part. The part has wiring attached to the back of it that must be soldered on inside the Gray Box. This part may require an electrician or a service call to install it.
4. The 8A breaker near the power cord connector may be popped out. Push it in, and power the machine on again to see if the machine will come on.
5. The ON/OFF switch is a 30A breaker switch (PN# 182278-30) could also be damaged. Call your distributor for parts.
6. If the fan and main drive motor still don't come on, call your distributor for a service call.
7. If the fan and main motor are on, but the display is blank or the machine won't follow the power up tests, remove the black metal panel under the Keyboard. Check to see if the 1/2 inch wide light blue Keyboard Ribbon Cable is connected to the bottom of the Keyboard PCB. The cable is connected in the lower right corner underneath the Keyboard. The 4 thumb screws that hold the Keyboard assembly down to the table top may have to be removed to be able to see the connection by raising it. Also check the other end of the cable where it connects to the lower left corner of the CPU Board. Remove the gray metal panel that has the Alphabet Board access door on it to find the connector. Check the cable for scrapes or pinches. Call your distributor to order the cable if it is damaged (PN# 402967-01).
8. If none of the above fixes the problem, it is best to test the Logic Voltage at the CPU board inside the Alphabet Board Cover.
9. Remove the cover that has the Alphabet Board access door attached to it. The test points are located at the top center of the CPU PCB. They are right next to the upper right outside corner of the metal guard that surrounds the Alphabet Boards. TP1 is for (+5VDC) & TP2 is for (GND). There is also a red LED in close proximity to the test points or PF- LED (power fail). A Digital Multi Meter is needed to perform the test. The black lead on the meter is to inserted into TP2, and the red lead should be inserted into TP1. Set the meter for DC Volts. The S/S4 must be on to complete the test.
10. If the voltage is reading less than 5.10 volts, the power supply must be tuned to this voltage.
11. Remove the cover where the fan is located. The Power Supply is a small circuit board in the bottom of the Gray Box just to the right. The adjustment screw or (POT) is located in the front edge of the board. V-ADJ or VR1 will be marked next to it. Turn the plastic adjustment screw clockwise to raise the voltage to 5.10Volts DC.

THE LOGIC VOLTAGE CAN'T BE ADJUSTED TO 5.10 VOLTS DC:

1. If the voltage can't be adjusted to 5.10VDC, check the power harnesses at the power supply.
2. The connectors are located on the left side of the Power Supply PCB. If the Power Harness connectors can't be tightened, call your distributor for more information or a service call.
3. If the Logic Voltage is still too low, call your distributor to order a Power Supply (PN# 342948-01).

THE KEYBOARD DISPLAY IS STILL BLANK:

1. If the Power Supply is replaced, and the Display is still blank, and the voltage test at the CPU Board reads correctly, replace the Display (PN# 371674-01). Call your distributor for the part. Use PRI (PN# 110077-01) to help in replacing the display.
2. The Keyboard has been replaced, and the Display is still blank. Replace the Keyboard PCB (PN# 372677-01). Call your distributor to order the part, and use PRI (110077-01) to install it.
3. Check the Keyboard cable for pinches in the cable or scrapes through the insulation. If any of these problems are found, replace the cable (PN# 402967-01).
4. If the Display doesn't come on after replacing the Power Supply, Display, or Keyboard, call your distributor for a service call.

THE DISPLAY IS ON, BUT THE INFORMATION SHOWING IS NOT NORMAL OR THE POWER UP TESTS DIDN'T FOLLOW NORMAL PROCEDURE:

1. Power the machine down, and reseat the Program PCB. It is found on the CPU Board next to the Alphabet Boards just to the right
2. Check the 1/2" wide light blue ribbon cable that connects to the lower right corner of the Keyboard underneath for scrapes or pinches.
3. Replace the cable if any pinches or scrapes are found. Call your distributor to order the cable (PN# 402967-01).
4. If the Display stays at "Melco Keyboard", instead of moving through the Power Up tests i.e. RAM TEST PASS, ROM TEST PASS, BATTERY BACK UP PASS etc., test the Logic Voltage (5.10VDC) first according to the information mentioned in the first part of this guide.
5. If the logic voltage is at 5.10VDC, order a Program PCB from your distributor. Order the CPU PCB (PN# 382848-02) after that if it still won't power up correctly. The Keyboard can also cause the error. Try it next.
6. A Defective START/STOP switch in the middle of the table top area can also cause the machine to power up incorrectly (PN# 282753-15) RED & Green button covers (PN# 342293-13).
7. If the display still won't show a normal power up procedure to "Super Star" with the clock counting time, call your distributor for a service call.

THE KEYS ON THE KEYBOARD DON'T RESPOND WHEN DEPRESSED:

1. Check the Logic Voltage again to see if it is at 5.10VDC.
2. Try the Keyboard test: Push the keys RESET, CTRL, SHIFT, and then the black area below the SHIFT key in succession, and the Keyboard Test will show on the display.
3. Depress each key on the Keyboard one at a time, starting at the top. Make the STOP Key last, as this will exit the test.
4. There should be a beep and a set of HEX code numbers & letters every time a key is pushed. If this doesn't happen, order a Keyboard from your distributor.
5. If there are holes in the plastic overlay, replace the Keyboard (PN# 372677-01).

ROM ERROR:

This error happens when the Alphabet that is chosen didn't pass the test that the CPU performs when the alphabet is chosen for use.

1. Hard Reset the machine i.e. SHIFT, CTRL, and RESET in succession, and re-access the alphabet again. If the error persists, try a HARD RESET: Push SHIFT, CTRL, and then RESET in succession, and then push the CAPS key so the red LED is out, and spell the word reset R E S E T with the keys on the Keyboard. The display will show the power up tests, and eventually MEMORY CLEARED. Push SHIFT, CTRL, RESET, and the machine is ready to be reprogrammed.
2. NOTE: ALL STYLES & PROGRAMS WILL BE ELIMINATED WHEN A HARD RESET IS PERFORMED. MAKE SURE THEY ARE WRITTEN DOWN BEFORE THIS OPERATION IS PERFORMED.
3. If the machine can't be programmed for the lettering chosen, the alphabet board may be damaged or the edge connectors may be dirty.
4. Power the machine down, and remove the alphabet board. Use a non-residue electronics spray to clean the gold edge connectors, and the connector where the board was plugged into on the Alphabet Board Backplane.
5. If the ROM error persists, call ARC to see if the Alphabet PCB can be replaced. Phone#: 800-877-4272.
6. If the error continues after that, call your distributor to replace the CPU Board (PN# 382848-02).

CRC ERROR, BAD SECTOR WARNING, ILLEGAL SECTOR WARNING, AND DRIVE NOT READY:

These errors are related to the Disk Drive only. They are bad disk errors. These errors will also cause the Disk Drive(s) not to format, verify or write to disk.

1. If any of these errors are detected, the floppy disk may be damaged. Try a Hard Reset mentioned in the last section. Note: Make sure that the disk is removed from the disk drive before performing the Hard Reset.
2. If the errors only happens with the disk that was first tried, the disk is damaged. Call the puncher that produced the disk for a replacement, and MAKE SURE THAT THE DISK IS FORMATTED FOR MELCO EXPANDED OR MELCO CONDENSED ONLY.
3. If the error happens with several disks, the disk drive read head may be dirty. Purchase a disk cleaner kit from a computer store, and use it in the drive while performing a "DISK D" & RETURN. Let it read for 15 seconds or until "Drive Not Ready" shows on the display. Try reading some disks again. Try a "DISK D" "RETURN" to see if the drive will even read the file names on the disk.
4. If the Disk Drive won't read any disks, there are several reasons why the drive(s) won't read at all. The Read Head may need to be aligned or the drive(s) replaced.
5. In the case of "Drive Not Ready", the drive(s) may be out of alignment. Call your distributor as the drive(s) will need to have a Melco Trained Technician service or replace them.
6. Try cleaning the connector on the CPU PCB where the Disk Drive Cable is installed, and also the edge connectors on the Keyboard. Use a non-residue electronics spray.
7. If the Disk Drive & Power Supply are working, and the machine still won't read disks, try replacing the CPU Board (PN# 382848-02).
8. Check the Ribbon Cable that connects the Disk Drives to the CPU Board for pinches or scrapes through the insulation. Call your distributor to order a cable if it is suspected to be damaged. When installing a new cable, make sure that no part of the cable will be rubbing on any moving parts of the machine (PN# 402968-01).
9. Call your distributor if the error persists for a service call.

THE PAPER TAPE READER WON'T READ OR WRITE TAPES:

1. Check the machine to see if the correct tape format has been chosen i.e.: MELCO1 OR 2, TAJIMA, BARUDAN, OR ZANGS.
2. Check the paper tape for tears or breaks.
3. Make sure the paper tape is installed in the reels correctly.
4. Check the routing of the tape whether punching tape or reading tape. The route is usually clearly marked on the punch & tape reader.
5. Check the switches on the reader, as the On/Off switch should be on, and the reader set for SPOOL.
6. Make sure the black read head is clean at the bottom center of the reader. Use the small felt brush that came with the reader to clean under the read head. It may be necessary to remove the 2 screws nearest the face plate that secure the read head, and use a Q-Tip with some Rubbing Alcohol to clean any tape gum that may have come off of the repaired paper tape. Make sure to clean the top & bottom read holes. If the top read head is missing it's clear lens, call your distributor for a replacement as paper tape dust will build up inside.
7. Check to see if the power cord, and ribbon cable are connected at the rear of the Tape Reader. Only re-connect if the machine is powered off.
8. If the paper tape reader won't read tape or the paper tape punch won't punch tape, call your distributor for more information.

HEAD JOG TIMEOUT & ACK NOT RECEIVED:

These errors also pertain to CC TIMEOUT errors or may be found in conjunction with these 2 errors.

1. Check head #1 (First head on the right) to see if the red Color Change LED is off under the Tensioner Platform at black cover that shows "Color Change", with an arrow underneath it. The red LED will be out< if the machine is on color or on a specific needle normally. If the Needle Cases aren't in the correct position electronically, the machine won't start sewing,
2. If the red Color Change LED is on, find the hole in the right side of the black cover under the Tensioner Platform. There is a slotted or flat head screw inside of the hole. Turn the screw left or right slowly until the LED is out. When it is, push the F and then CREEP buttons. Push the UP ARROW once (2nd key over from the STOP key) to see if the machine will rotate the main shaft to the Head Up position without the error.
3. Check all wiring leading to and away from the Color Change Assembly for loose or broken wiring. The Tensioner Platform Assembly will have to be removed to observe the wiring.
4. Replace the Color Change PCB (PN# 001322-01) if the red LED never goes out through the full distance left & right from needle 1 through 6.
5. Call your distributor for a service call if the error persists
6. There are various other reasons for a "Head Jog Timeout" error the when color change system is working correctly.
7. If a needle is down , there may be a mechanical bind in the head drive system. If a Needle Bar or Take-up Lever is stuck down instead of going to head up, the Head Jog Timeout error will show.
8. Power the machine down, and rotate the main shaft with the allen screw in the middle of the disk at the back of head #1. The disk reads HU, N, H, and 0. Try to rotate the main shaft counter-clockwise to see if there is a bind in the system. If it won't rotate, remove the needle plate(s) to see if there is a thread jam in the hook area. If a needle is broken, look for the needle tip, as it may be stuck inside the hook.
9. If nothing can be seen in the hook, remove the Hook Restraining Finger in front of the hook. Use the Hook Timing section in the Super Star Operation Manual (PN# 113079-01) to see where the finger is located in the Hook Timing section. After removing the Restraining Finger, and the Bobbin Case, try rotating the shaft inside the hook. If the whole hook is rotating, instead of the basket inside the hook, there is something inside the hook causing it to bind. Remove the hook, and remove the curved bar on one side of it to see if the inner basket can be removed. If not call your distributor to order a new hook.
10. If a hoop was hit, the cause for the bind could be a bent needle bar. Try to remove the needle bar. If it is easy to slide out of the needle case it is probably straight.
11. Check the condition of the Presser Foot to see if it is bent also. If it is bent badly, replace it by calling your distributor for parts.
12. Dropped needle bars will also cause the machine to stop sewing. If this is suspected, call your distributor for further assistance. If a Color Change has been made with a Needle Bar down, there's a good chance that there will be dropped needle bars.
13. Check the main shaft drive pulley at the left end of the machine to see if it's loose on the main shaft, and the Z Motor Drive Pulley also.
14. Check at each end of the black tubes that cover the Main Shaft for thread that may be wrapped around the main shaft in between the tube(s) and the back end of the of the sewing heads.
15. If the Main Shaft won't go to Head Up, the Z Encoder at the left end of the machine may be damaged. If the Main Shaft won't rotate to Head Up in one full revolution call your distributor for a service call. Main Shaft Time Out may be accompanied with a bad Z Encoder.
16. If a hoop was hit, the Take Up Lever(s) can also be out of sync with the Take Up Lever Drive Gear(s). This will be evident when trying to rotate the main shaft to the head up position, and the Take Up Lever(s) will be higher than the other five on each Needle Case. The Needle Case(s) must be removed, the main shaft rotated to head up, and reinstalled. Call your distributor for assistance or a service call.
17. Individual heads may be out of sync with the main shaft. This will be evident if the needle is traveling up & down at a different pace than the other heads. Call your distributor for assistance or a service call.
18. Make sure that the gears inside the black cover at the rear of the heads with a red marked oil hole are greased. Remove the 4 allen screws that hold the cover on, and observe the aluminum housing. Use the tube of grease that came with the machine to apply grease inside the hole at the top of the housing. Grease (PN# 861689-01). The gears on the main shaft should be greased with Molycote as they were originally.
19. F Creep the Needle Cases to Needle #6. Look behind the Needle Case, and behind the Take Up Levers. Observe the gear teeth on the back of the Take-up Lever for needle #6. They are meshed with the Drive Gear. Look straight down to the left side of the Drive Gear to see the Cam with a 1/4 inch deep & wide worm groove in it. Again, use the grease tube to insert some grease directly into the groove. Use an amount about as big as the nail on your little finger.
20. Oil the heads at all red marked oil holes, and hook assemblies at a regular basis mentioned in the Operator's Manual.

THE PANTOGRAPH IS UNLOCKED, AND WON'T MOVE USING THE KEYS ON THE KEYBOARD:

1. Push the Directional Arrow keys to see if the pantograph will move forward & back, and also to see if the X Carriage(s) will move left & right.
2. If the pantograph is locked in, but still won't move using the keys on the Keyboard, call your distributor to replace the Keyboard.
3. If any of the directional keys fails to move the intended portion of the pantograph, push on the black pantograph bar or hoop holders to see if it can be pushed easily by hand when the machine is on.
4. If either direction left & right (X Axis) or forward & back (Y Axis), will move by hand try powering the machine off, and on again to see if when the machine powers up to "Super Star" that the axis that was unlocked locks in again. If not call your distributor to replace the Motor Control Board (PN# 382600-01)

COLOR CHANGE TIMEOUT:

The master color change head (HEAD #1) isn't registering that the Needle Cases made a Color Change in the allotted time (15 seconds).

1. Check to see if the red Color Change LED is on head #1. If it isn't attempt to make a manual Color Change by turning the slotted screw in the hole on the right side of the black plastic Color Change Cover until the LED is out. Use the F-Creep Mode to try to rotate the heads to head up position. If a Not at Head Error shows, check the information in this guide for this error.
2. If the red Color Change LED is not going out no matter what needle the Color Change Cam slotted screw is rotated, call your distributor for a replacement Master Color Change Board (PN# 001322-01).
3. Try to move head #1's needle case left & right by hand. It shouldn't move. If it moves even 1/16 inch, the Color Change Cam may be loose on it's shaft. Call your distributor for more information or a service call.

STITCH TIMEOUT:

1. This error can happen when reading from Alphabet Boards, Disk Drive, or Tape Reader.
2. Try pushing the START key again to see if the machine will resume the design. If not try a Hard Reset mentioned in this guide (ROM error section).
3. Reload the design, and try it again.
4. If the error happens again, use the HEAD JOG TIMEOUT information in this guide to determine if there is a problem with the Sewing Head.

NO JUMP STITCH:

There are running stitches in between letters or objects in the design. The machine sews back to origin with running stitches at the end of a design, instead of one long stitch. The needle stays down at the end of a design. There is a crease down the center of large letters instead of a nice smooth column. The needle bar is dropped at a Color Change.

1. The Jump Stitch Solenoid and or the Color Change Board are damaged.
2. Turn the machine off.
3. Cut the thread from the rear of the Tensioner assembly.
4. Remove the Tensioner Platform Assembly from the top of the Black Cover of the head by removing the 2 allen screws that hold the Tensioner assembly to the top of the cover. The black cover should raised along with the tensioner assembly from the front so the Thread Break Harness can be disconnected from the right side of the Color Change board. Set the cover , and Tensioner assembly aside.
5. A Digital Volt Meter will be needed to test the resistance of the Jump Stitch Solenoid at the connectors inside area under where the cover was.
6. The connector will have 2 white wires, and black insulation around them.
7. Disconnect the connector, and test the across the 2 white wires. The meter should read 31 ohms if the solenoid is good.
8. If it reads near 0, call your distributor to order a Jump Stitch Solenoid (PN#340484-31) with a Black Connector, and the Color Change Board.
9. If the resistance tests at 31 ohms, call to replace just the Color Change Board. Head #1-First head on the right Master Color Change Board (PN# 001322-01) & heads 2 through 4 (PN#001325-01)
10. To test the Jump Stitch, just sew a 5 inch Block- I. The vertical column should be smooth with no creases down the center of the column.

SEWING QUALITY PROBLEMS IN X OR Y AXIS:

1. If letters look jagged around the edges or Columns don't meet designs, Border Stitches don't follow designs correctly or slight distortion of designs is evident, check the following: Make sure that the garment is hooped tight enough. Make sure that ample backing is used for the application. Use KK 100 to make knit materials more stable. Use solvy so stitches won't pull into the cloth. Check to see if the Thread & Bobbin tensions aren't too tight.
2. Check the Hoop Holder(s) on the X Carriage to see if the mounting screws or connectors are loose in the plate they are mounted in. If either of them are, tighten the screws after applying Loctite 222, and call your distributor to replace the Hoop Holder if worn.
3. Check the metal hoop bracket on the hoop that is being used, as the pins that fit the slots may be worn. The bracket may be loosely mounted on the wooden part of the hoop. Try another hoop to verify a bad hoop bracket. Make sure the wooden part of the hoop isn't cracked either. Call your distributor for replacement hoops.
4. If the Full- Height Jacket -Back Hoop is being used, don't have the sewing speed set at 650 as this hoop flexes due to the weight of the hoop verses the Hoop Bracket, and the strength of the pantograph. Sewing at a slower speed can make all of the difference.
5. Make sure that the design that is being sewn is close to size of the hoop. Allow for at least an inch of extra space on all sides of the design.
6. Check the X Axis Drive Belt under the black pantograph bar. It branches out from the center support underneath the bar. It should be flat up against the underside of the bar assembly. If it is drooping, the tensioning screws are allens just 1 1/2 feet to either side of the center support on the underside of the bar.
7. There are several Bearings (PN# 340045-01) on the inside of the pantograph bar that the X Carriage rides on. If the Hoop Holders (X Carriage) seem to ride loosely, call your distributor, as the pantograph has to be removed from the supports to replacement.
8. If small vertical columns on small lettering seem to have no column width, try moving the X Carriage (Hoop Holders) with the machine on. If it moves even 1/4 inch there may be a loose pulley in the X Motor Drive System. Check the X Axis Motor Drive Pulley to see if it's loose on the motor drive shaft. If it is, tighten the screws with Loctite 222 on the threads of the pulley set screws.
9. If the pulley on the X Motor is tight, check the pulley at the other end of the belt to see if it is loose on it's shaft. The set screws are in the pulley that has the Air Craft Cable wound on it for the X Rack Limit System. The cable may move enough to be able to loosen the set screws, and apply Loctite 222 to the threads of the screws, and re-tighten them onto the flats on the end of the Ball Spline Shaft. If the cable won't move see the S/S4 Service Manual (PN# 113081-01), to see how to service this cable assembly.
10. If the Horizontal columns in lettering or designs are distorted, check the Y Axis Belts under the middle, left, and right side Table Tops for damage. Call your distributor to replace them if they are (PN# 503060-01). There are 4 belts all together
11. A Belt Tension Meter (PN# 992165-01) is used to test the tension of the Y belts. The belts should be set at 18 to 20 lb.
12. If lettering appears to stair step there is a chance that the Y rail bearings or pulleys are worn. There is a new Upgrade pulley kit for the front Y tensioning pulleys if they haven't been installed already. Call your distributor for more the price and information on the kit (PN# 005495-01).

THREAD BREAKS:

1. Check the Needle Depth & Hook Timing first. See the Operator's Manual for information on how to check & adjust the two settings.
2. Replace the current needle(s) as the tips of them will flatten out after normal use. Sometimes there are burrs that form in the eye of the needle due to extended use. Try to replace them on a regular basis. Try once a week , if sewing eight hours a day.
3. If the cone of thread that is being used is old or has been sitting on the shelf for a long time it will be dry and brittle. If the cone must be used, try spraying it with a pure silicone spray. The thread may however still break. Replace the cone.
4. Check the threading of the cone(s) all of the way to the eye of the needle, and presser foot to make sure the thread is inside of all thread guides.
5. Check all thread guides for burrs or scratches. Use a piece of thread to rub around inside of the thread guides to see if it catches on anything such as a burr. Try using some emery cloth to smooth out burrs. If the burrs are too deep, replace the thread guide.
6. Check the Hook Assembly for burrs, and smooth it out if possible or replace it.
7. A Loose Needle Case can cause thread breaks. If this is suspected, call your distributor for more information.
8. Check the Hook Support (Restraining Finger), for burrs. Try smoothing them out with emery paper. If burrs are too deep replace the part. Make sure it is positioned correctly. See the Operator's Manual in the hook timing section. Ops. Manual (PN# 113079-01).
9. Make sure the hook assembly is clean of excess thread and fuzz.
10. Oil the hook every 4 actual hours of sewing. See the Operator's Manual for oiling instructions.
11. Check thread tensions to make sure they aren't too tight. If the tensioner wheel moves in a jerky movement, loosen the knob, and check the threading. Replace the felt pads under, and on top of the tensioner wheel(s). (PN#342003-61).
12. Check the Presser Foot Height. The Bottom ring of the Presser Foot should be touching the cloth. If the Presser Foot is hitting too hard, check the rubber dampers inside the bottom of the Needle case by removing the black cover that has MELCO INDUSTRIES stamped on it. Replace the dampers if they are damaged.
13. Check the Needle Plate Hole for burrs on top, and underneath the hole.
14. Check the Needle Plate Hole centering. Make sure that the needle passes through the center the hole using a new needle on needles 1, 3 , and 6.
15. Check the Take Up Lever that is engaged to see if by picking up and down on it, that it travels up and down more than 1/8 inch. If it does there may be some teeth missing off of the Take Up Lever Drive Gear or the individual Take Up Lever itself, or they may just be worn
16. The other possibility is that the two gears aren't meshing enough. If either of these errors are evident, call your distributor, as the meshing of the gears should be performed by a trained technician.
17. Needle breaks and Bird Nesting can cause the Hook Timing to be off. Check the Hook Timing. If it needs adjustment see the Operator's Manual for instruction..
18. Hitting a hoop may cause the Needle Depth to be incorrect. Make sure that 1/2 to 3/4 of the eye of the needle shows inside of the hook.
19. It isn't recommended to use the Needle Gauge that was first supplied with the machine.
20. IMPORTANT: If sewing small lettering size .50 down to .25 in height, make sure the density isn't too high. A density of 60 stitches is too high. With this density there would be at least 3 needle strikes in the same hole. Try lower densities of 50 or 55 for .50 size letters, and maybe 45 for lettering with a size of .33 and below.
21. If a design is dense in stitches the same error may happen. This happens especially if the operator has reduced a design in size.
22. If the design is an Expanded Design, the stitch density can't be reduced. Call your puncher. Try slowing the sewing speed down to 500 or 550 to see if the design can be sewn. It may be a good idea anyway to slow the sewing speed down, due to the intricacy of the design.
23. The size of the eye of the needle can make a difference also. If the thread is breaking too often, try using a larger eyed needle. For instance: If a 70/10 size needle is being used, switch to a 75/11 or 80/12 to accommodate the thread, and the density of the design.
24. Make sure thread tensions aren't too tight. Check the Front six tensioners, and the Bobbin Case. If the Bobbin Tension keeps varying, it can cause sewing quality and thread break problems. Replace the Bobbin Case. Call your distributor for a replacement Bobbin Case. (PN# 341992-04)
25. Use adequate backing . An Inadequate amount of backing may allow part of the garment to be pulled down into the Needle Plate Hole, and cause a thread break. For instance: Don't use one piece of Tear Away backing to sew a Sweat Shirt. Use at least 2 pieces of Cut Away Backing so the cloth will be more stable.

FALSE THREAD BREAKS:

1. Check the whole thread path from the Thread Tree down to the needle to see if it is threaded correctly.
2. Check the needle depth & hook timing.
3. Check the Take Up Spring to see if it's broken or not touching the gold sensor post next to the tensioner.
4. Call your distributor if it persists.

LOOPING & BIRD NESTING:

1. Looping can be caused by thread tensions that are too loose. This can be caused by the Main Tensioners (Front Six), and by the Bobbin Case. Looping can be on top or underneath the garment. Try turning the front six tensioner knobs 1 or 2 turns at a time to see if the problem will go away.
2. The looping may vary as are result of the knobs being too loose on the threaded tensioner post. If the knob moves too easily. remove the knob by unscrewing it. Spread the threaded post slightly with a large slotted screwdriver. This causes the threads of the post to better match the threads of the tensioner knob so they don't move so easily. If the problem persists, call your distributor to identify the Tensioner parts, and replace them.
3. If the Bobbin Tension changes too often, or won't tighten, replace it. Call your distributor to order one.
4. The density of the design may affect this error also. If the design density is too tight, the needle and thread will have a hard time fitting through the hole the needle has to make. Call your digitizer (puncher) if this is suspected.
5. The size of the eye of the needle can affect this problem. If the density of the design is high or the cloth is to elastic, change up to a larger eyed needle. For instance: If the needle currently being used is a 70/10 size needle, switch to a 75/11 or even a 80/12 size needle. This larger eyed needle will allow for smoother passage of the thread through the eye of the needle. Most thread being used is 40 gauge. If 30 gauge thread is being used, a larger eyed needle is required. Try an 80/12 size needle. When Metallic thread is being used, at least a 80/12 size needle should. If your garment permits, it is recommended to use a 90/14 size needle.
6. Make sure the Hook Support (Restraining Finger) isn't to close to the back of the indentation in the Hook Assembly. There should be some space in between the front of the tab on the finger and the back of the indentation. See the Operator's Manual for information about the placement.

RACK LIMIT ERRORS:

1. If the Presser Foot is too far away from the edge of the largest hoop, an inch or more, the X Limit Cable Actuator may have moved on the cable. See the S/S4 Service Manual (PN# 113081-01) on pages 4-4 through 4-7 to see how to replace the Actuator (Torpedo) (PN# 572756-01) & Air Craft Cable 90 inches (PN# 290866-01) if broken or frayed.
2. If the error is in the Y Axis direction see page 4-2 in the same manual.
3. If any switches are damaged order (PN# 282754-02) from your distributor.
4. If the Y Axis (Forward & Back) limits are not correct, the limit switches are under the table Top in front of the Keyboard Assembly. See section 5 in the Service Manual to see how to remove it so the switches can be replaced, and adjusted.
5. The Cap Frame Limits are adjusted using the information contained in the same sections of the service manual as the information for the flat hoops.

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