S u p e r S t a r   1   &   2   T r o u b l e   S h o o t i n g   G u i d e

To identify the type of machine, it has a black sewing head with six needles. The model number will be: S/S1 (371859-01/11)& S/S2 (372300-01)

THE MACHINE WON'T COME ON. THE DISPLAY IS BLANK:

1. Check the power source.
2. Make sure it's plugged in. Make sure it is a working outlet.
3. Lift the Keyboard Cover to check to see if the light blue Keyboard Ribbon Cable is connected to the bottom of the Keyboard PCB. The cable is connected in the lower right corner underneath the Keyboard. Raise the right arm of the machine to see the connection.
4. If none of the above fixes the problem, it is best to test the Logic Voltage at the Mother board under the Keyboard Cover.
5. Lift the cover, and test the voltage. The test points are located at the white connector on the right end of the Mother Board that lays flat in the right side of the machine, and partially under the table top (S/S1). See PRI (110066-01) for instruction on how to test & tune the Logic Voltage. See PRI (110071-01) for the S/S2. The Logic Voltage should be set to 5.10 volts DC.

THE LOGIC VOLTAGE CAN'T BE ADJUSTED TO 5.10 VOLTS DC:

1. If the voltage can't be adjusted to 5.10VDC, check the power harnesses at the power supply. The S/S1 power supply is located underneath the machine inside a gold box. Remove the grating to see the connectors. The connectors are located on the right side of the Power Supply PCB.
2. With the power off, and the power cord disconnected, disconnect the 2 power harness connectors to see if they come off easily or with some tension.
3. If they disconnect easily, the connectivity is too loose. There is a thin silver strip of metal for each set of wires on the connectors.
4. Push the wire further into the connector until the silver strip pops up. Push down on the strip gently, and pull the wire(s) out, and observe the V shaped metal connector. Widen the V slightly, and plug it back into the connector. Do this one wire at a time so the sequence of the wires in the connectors isn't forgotten. This should improve the connectivity of the 2 connectors. Re-test the Logic Voltage again to see if the voltage is stable or if it can be adjusted to 5.10VDC.
5. To access the S/S2 Power Supply, power down the machine, and disconnect the power cord at the circuit breaker at the rear of the machine. Remove the 2 screws at the top 2 corners of the circuit breaker panel, and lower it so the bottom 2 edge of the panel rests under the lip inside the Power Supply box. The Power Harness connectors are accessible through the opening.
6. If the Power Harness connectors can't be tightened, call your distributor for more information or a service call.
7. If the Logic Voltage is still too low, call your distributor to order a Power Supply (PN# 341778-01). The PRI's for both machines are: S/S1-110066-01, & S/S2-110071-01.

THE KEYBOARD DISPLAY IS STILL BLANK:

1. If the Power Supply is replaced, and the Display is still blank, and the voltage test at the Mother Board reads correctly, replace the Display. Call your distributor for the part. Use PRI (110077-01) to help in replacing the display.
2. The Keyboard has been replaced, and the Display is still blank. Replace the Keyboard PCB. Call your distributor to order the part, and use PRI (110077-01) to install it.
3. If the Display doesn't come on after replacing the Power Supply, Display, Keyboard, call your distributor for a service call.

THE DISPLAY IS ON, BUT THE INFORMATION SHOWING IS NOT NORMAL OR THE POWER UP TESTS DIDN'T FOLLOW NORMAL PROCEDURE:

1. Power the machine down, and reseat the Program PCB under the left arm of the machine, and usually standing up in the connector closest to the table top. If there is a Disk Control PCB present, it will have the wide ribbon cable connected to it.
2. Make sure that there is a plastic strip of tape on the Alphabet Board Box that extends from the Alphabet Board up about 3 inches, and all of the way across the metal part of the box, as the Disk Control PCB has small capacitors that can rub through there coating, and short to the box. This tape was installed when the machine was built, and may have holes in it. Replace the tape.
3. Check the 1/2" wide light blue ribbon cable that connects to the lower right corner of the Keyboard underneath for scrapes or pinches.
4. Replace the cable if any pinches or scrapes are found. S/S1 (PN# 401685-01) & S/S2 (PN# 402307-01). Call your distributor to order the cable.
5. If the Display stays at "Melco Keyboard", instead of moving through the Power Up tests i.e. RAM TEST PASS, ROM TEST PASS, BATTERY BACK UP PASS etc., test the Logic Voltage first according to the PRI's in the mentioned in the first part of this guide.
6. If the logic voltage is at 5.10VDC, order a Program PCB from your distributor. Order the CPU PCB after that if it still won't power up correctly. The Keyboard can also cause the error. Try it next.
7. If the display still won't show a normal power up procedure to "Super Star" with the clock counting time, call your distributor for a service call.

THE KEYS ON THE KEYBOARD DON'T RESPOND WHEN DEPRESSED:

1. Check the Logic Voltage again to see if it is at 5.10VDC.
2. Try the Keyboard test: Push the keys RESET, CTRL, SHIFT, and then the black area below the SHIFT key in succession, and the Keyboard Test will show on the display.
3. Depress each key on the Keyboard one at a time, starting at the top. Make the STOP Key last, as this will exit the test. There should be a beep and a set of HEX code numbers & letters every time a key is pushed. If this doesn't happen, order a Keyboard from your distributor.
4. If there are holes in the plastic overlay, replace the Keyboard.

ROM ERROR:

This error happens when the Alphabet that is chosen didn't pass the test that the CPU performs when the alphabet is chosen for use.

1. Reset the machine i.e. SHIFT, CTRL, and RESET in succession, and re-access the alphabet again. If the error persists, try a HARD RESET: Push SHIFT, CTRL, and then RESET in succession, and then push the CAPS key so the red LED is out, and spell the word reset R E S E T with the keys on the Keyboard. The display will show the power up tests, and eventually MEMORY CLEARED. Push SHIFT, CTRL, RESET, and the machine is ready to be reprogrammed.
2. NOTE: ALL STYLES & PROGRAMS WILL BE ELIMINATED WHEN A HARD RESET IS PERFORMED. MAKE SURE THEY ARE WRITTEN DOWN BEFORE THIS OPERATION IS PERFORMED.
3. If the machine can't be programmed for the lettering chosen, the alphabet board may be damaged or the edge connectors may be dirty. Power the machine down, and remove the alphabet board. Use a non-residue electronics spray to clean the gold edge connectors, and the connector where the board was plugged into on the Alphabet Board Backplane.
4. If the ROM error persists, call ARC to see if the PCB can be replaced. PH# 800-877-4272.
5. If the error continues after that, call your distributor to replace the Alphabet Backplane PCB (PN# 381370-01).

CRC ERROR, BAD SECTOR WARNING, ILLEGAL SECTOR WARNING, AND DRIVE NOT READY:

These errors are related to the Disk Drive only. They are bad disk errors. These errors will also cause the Disk Drive(s) not to format, verify or write to disk.

1. If any of these errors are detected, the floppy disk may be damaged. Try a Hard Reset mentioned in the last section. Note: Make sure that the disk is removed from the disk drive before performing the Hard Reset.
2. If the errors only happens with the disk that was first tried, the disk is damaged. Call the puncher that produced the disk for a replacement, and MAKE SURE THAT THE DISK IS FORMATTED FOR MELCO EXPANDED OR MELCO CONDENSED ONLY.
3. If the error happens with several disks, the disk drive read head may be dirty. Purchase a disk cleaner kit from a computer store, and use it in the drive while performing a "DISK D" & RETURN.
4. Let it read for 15 seconds or until "Drive Not Ready" shows on the display. Try reading some disks again. Try a "DISK D" "RETURN" to see if the drive will even read the file names on the disk.
5. If the Disk Drive won't read any disks, there are several reasons why the drive(s) won't read at all. The Read Head may need to be aligned or the drive(s) replaced.
6. In the case of "Drive Not Ready", the drive(s) may have a bad on-board power supply. Call your distributor as the remote drive(s) unit will need to have a Melco Trained Technician service them.
7. Try cleaning the connector on the CPU PCB where the Disk Controller PCB is normally installed, and also the edge connectors on the Disk Control PCB. Use a non-residue electronics spray.
8. If the Disk Drive & Power Supply are working, and the machine still won't read disks, try replacing the Disk Controller PCB (PN# 381500-01).
9. Check the Ribbon Cable that connects the Disk Drive Unit to the Disk Controller PCB for pinches or scrapes through the insulation. Call your distributor to order a cable if it is suspected to be damaged. When installing a new cable, make sure that no part of the cable will be rubbing on any moving parts of the machine.
10. Make sure that the protective tape that is applied to the Alphabet Board Box on the side that slides down in front of the Disk Controller PCB is secure. It should be applied all of the way across the box, and 3 inches up from the Green Circuit Board (Alphabet Backplane PCB). It will keep the capacitors from rubbing on the box, and possibly shorting to the white metal box. If the tape is wearing through, re-apply a new piece of plastic tape. This may also cause the machine to reset while sewing if one of the capacitors does short to the metal plate.
11. Try replacing the CPU PCB if none of the above fixes the Disk reading error.
12. Call your distributor if the error persists for a service call.

THE PAPER TAPE READER WON'T READ OR WRITE TAPES:

1. Check the machine to see if the correct tape format has been chosen i.e.: MELCO1 OR 2, TAJIMA, BARUDAN, OR ZANGS.
2. Check the paper tape for tears or breaks.
3. Make sure the paper tape is installed in the reels correctly.
4. Check the routing of the tape whether punching tape or reading tape. The route is usually clearly marked on the punch & tape reader.
5. Check the switches on the reader, as the On/Off switch should be on, and the reader set for SPOOL.
6. Make sure the black read head is clean at the bottom center of the reader. Use the small felt brush that came with the reader to clean under the read head. It may be necessary to remove the 2 screws nearest the face plate that secure the read head, and use a Q-Tip with some Rubbing Alcohol to clean any tape gum that may have come off of the repaired paper tape. Make sure to clean the top & bottom read holes.
7. If the top read head is missing it's clear lens, call your distributor for a replacement as paper tape dust will build up inside.
8. Check to see if the power cord, and ribbon cable are connected at the rear of the Tape Reader. Only re-connect if the machine is powered off.
9. If the paper tape reader won't read tape or the paper tape punch won't punch tape, call your distributor for more information.

HEAD JOG TIMEOUT & ACK NOT RECEIVED:

These errors also pertain to CC TIMEOUT errors or may be found in conjunction with these 2 errors.

1. Check to see if the red Color Change LED is on under the Tensioner Platform (Old Style Color Change), and uses a gray color change encoder glass to detect the individual needles. The (New Style Color Change) has a black cover under the Tensioner Platform that will have a sticker that shows "Color Change" with an arrow underneath it. The red LED will be out if the machine is on color or on a specific needle normally. The above information is very important to know if ever ordering a replacement Mother Board PCB, because special ROMs are used on the PCBs for specific machines. If the Needle Case isn't in the correct position electronically, the machine won't start sewing,
2. If the Needle Case(s) didn't move to needle #3 on power up, this error may show on the display. It may just power up, and Color Change to another needle. This is incorrect. Test the Logic Voltage at the Mother Board as outlined on the Power Supply PRIs mentioned in the first section of this guide. Try cleaning the gray color change encoder glass on the (Old Style Color Change) type of machine. If there are scratches other than the normal demarcation lines, cover them with permanent magic marker. If cracked or broken, replace it or them if the machine is a S/S2.
3. The Color Change Encoder Glass part number is located on the glass itself if the glass needs to be replaced.
4. Check all wiring leading to and away from the Color Change Assembly(s) for loose or broken wiring.
5. Replace the Color Change PCB (PN# 381777-01) (Old Color Change), if it still won't move to needle #3 on power up
6. For the New Style Color Change, replace them with (PN# 383200-01)-also used for head "A" on S/S2 machines., and if the machine is a S/S2, head "B" will use (PN# 383200-02)
7. If the Needle Case(s) still won't move to the correct needle at power up, call your distributor to order a Mother Board PCB. Remember what type of Color Change the machine has as mentioned at the first part of this section when ordering the PCB. If the machine has one or 2 heads or is a three needle machine will make a difference which programmed ROM is installed on the Mother Board prior to shipment.
8. Replace the Color Change Motor if the error continues.
9. Call your distributor for a service call if the error persists
10. There are various other reasons for a "Head Jog Timeout" error the color change system is working.
11. If a needle is down whether the machine is a single head or double head machine, there may be a mechanical bind in the head drive system. If a Needle Bar or Take-up Lever is stuck down instead of going to head up, the Head Jog Timeout error will show.
12. Power the machine down, and remove the black cover from back of the black tower at the back of the head. Inside of the tower is the motor that drives the take-up levers & needle bars up and down.
13. Try to rotate either the motor or main shaft pulley counter-clockwise to see if there is a bind in the system. If it won't rotate, remove the needle plate(s) to see if there is a thread jam in the hook area. If a needle is broken, look for the needle tip, as it may be stuck inside the hook.
14. If nothing can be seen in the hook, remove the Hook Restraining Finger in front of the hook. Use the Hook Timing section in the Super Star Operation Manual to see where the finger is located. After removing the Restraining Finger, and the Bobbin Case, try rotating the shaft inside the hook. If the whole hook is rotating, instead of the basket inside the hook, there is something inside the hook causing it to bind. Remove the hook, and remove the curved bar on one side of it to see if the inner basket can be removed. If not call your distributor to order a new hook.
15. If a hoop was hit, the cause for the bind could be a bent needle bar. Try to remove the needle bar. If it is easy to slide out of the needle case it is probably straight.
16. Check the condition of the Presser Foot to see if it is bent also. If it is bent badly, replace it by calling your distributor for parts.
17. Dropped needle bars will also cause the machine to stop sewing. If this is suspected, call your distributor for further assistance.
18. Inside the black tower at the rear of the sewing head is a timing disk on the main shaft. It passes through a black U shaped Optical Encoder on the underside of the small green Circuit Board inside the tower at the top. It may be necessary to remove the Thread Spool Platform on top of the tower to be able to see this disk. The possibility is that the disk is rubbing on one side of the U shaped encoder. If this is true, call your distributor for information on the timing of the disk.
19. Check the main shaft drive pulley above the sewing head drive motor (Stepper Motor). See if the pulley is loose on the shaft or binding on the bushing ahead of it. Check for thread wrapped around the pulley or in front of it.
20. Make sure that the gears inside the black cover at the rear of the head with a red marked oil hole at each of it are greased. Remove the 4 allen screws that hold the cover on, and observe the aluminum housing. Use the tube of grease that came with the machine to apply grease inside the hole at the top of the housing. Grease (PN# 861689-01)
21. F Creep the Needle Case to Needle #6. Look behind the Needle Case, and behind the Take Up Levers. Observe the gear teeth on the back of the Take-up Lever for needle #6. They are meshed with the drive gear. Look straight down to the left side of the Drive Gear to see the Cam with a 1/4 inch deep & wide worm groove in it. Again, use the grease tube to insert some grease directly into the groove. Use an amount about as big as the nail on your little finger.

STEPPER MOTOR ERROR:

1. Push the Directional Arrow keys to see if the pantograph will move forward & back, and also to see if the X Carriage(s) will move left & right.
2. Push the F & Creep keys to get into the Creep Mode. Push the Up Arrow key to see if the needle bar(s) will move up & down once.
3. If any of the directional keys or the Up Arrow fails to move the intended portion of the machine, there may be a blown fuse or bad Stepper Board under the Keyboard of the machine. Power the machine down, and disconnect the power cord from the rear of the machine.
4. Raise the right arm of the machine, and observe the fuses on the large circuit board (Mother Board). They are at the forward edge of the PCB where the 3 or 4 Stepper Boards are connected to the PCB. Check each one to see if they are blown. The fuses will correspond to the Steppers as they are connected to the Mother Board left to right. If a fuse is blown, replace it with a 2A-250V fast-blow fuse.
5. Re-connect the power cord, and power the machine on. Try the particular Pantograph direction or needle bar movement to see if it is regained. If not, and still not working, and the fuse is not blown, call your distributor for a replacement Stepper Board. If the fuse is blown, call your distributor, as the position for the Stepper Board(s) may be damaged at the Mother Board also. The Stepper Board(s) could be switched out with Steppers from other positions on the Mother Board, but there is a possibility that the position on the Mother Board for the damaged Stepper Board is damaged, and could cause the replacement to be damaged. If the fuse(s) on the Mother Board blew it would be best to replace the Mother Board, and the damaged Stepper Board(s) all at the same time. call your distributor for parts.
6. To identify the Stepper Board Positions:
7. (Z) or Needle Bar movement: 1st Stepper on the left (S/S1) or first 2 on the left in the case of a (S/S2).
8. (Y) or forward & back movement of the black Pantograph Bar, 2nd Stepper from the left (S/S1) or third in the case of the (S/S2).
9. (X) or left & right movement of the X Carriage (Hoop Holder(s) ), last Stepper on the right.
10. If the Stepper Boards keep blowing fuses after Stepper Board(s) and or Mother Board replacement, the individual motor(s) may be damaged. Call your distributor to replace the motor or schedule a service call.

STITCH TIMEOUT:

1. This error can happen when reading from Alphabet Boards, Disk Drive, or Tape Reader.
2. Try pushing the START key again to see if the machine will resume the design. If not try a Hard Reset mentioned in this guide.
3. Reload the design, and try it again.
4. If the error happens again, use the HEAD JOG TIMEOUT information in this guide to determine if there is a problem with the Sewing Head.

NO JUMP STITCH:

There are running stitches in between letters or objects in the design. The machine sews back to origin with running stitches at the end of a design, instead of one long stitch. The needle stays down at the end of a design. There is a crease down the center of large letters instead of a nice smooth column.

1. The Jump Stitch Solenoid and or the Mother Board are damaged.
2. Turn the machine off.
3. Remove the Black Cover with 2-red marked oil holes, on top of the sewing head.
4. A Digital Volt Meter will be needed to test the resistance of the Jump Stitch Solenoid at the connectors inside area under where the cover was.
5. The connector will have 2 white wires, and black insulation around them.
6. Disconnect the connector, and test the across the 2 white wires. The meter should read 31 ohms if the solenoid is good.
7. If it reads near 0, call your distributor to order a Jump Stitch Solenoid (PN#340484-31).
8. If the resistance tests at 31 ohms, call to replace just the Mother Board under the Keyboard.
9. To test the Jump Stitch, just sew a 5 inch Block- I. The vertical column should be smooth with no creases down the center of the column.

SEWING QUALITY PROBLEMS:

1. If letters look jagged around the edges or Columns don't meet designs, Border Stitches don't follow designs correctly or slight distortion of designs is evident, check the following: Make sure that the garment is hooped tight enough. Make sure that ample backing is used for the application. Use KK100 to make knit materials more stable. Use solvey so stitches won't pull into the cloth. Check to see if the Thread & Bobbin tensions aren't too tight.
2. Check the Hoop Holder(s) on the X Carriage to see if the mounting screws or connectors are loose in the plate they are mounted in. If either of them are, tighten the screws after applying Loctite 222, and call your distributor to replace the Hoop Holder if worn. (PN# 370028-01).
3. Check the metal hoop bracket on the hoop that is being used, as the pins that fit the slots may be worn. The bracket may be loosely mounted on the wooden part of the hoop. Try another hoop to verify a bad hoop bracket. Make sure the wooden part of the hoop isn't cracked either. Call your distributor for replacement hoops.
4. If the Full- Height Jacket -Back Hoop is being used, don't have the sewing speed set at 650 as this hoop flexes due to the weight of the hoop verses the Hoop Bracket, and the strength of the pantograph. Sewing at a slower speed can make all of the difference.
5. Make sure that the design that is being sewn is close to size of the hoop. Allow for at least an inch of extra space on all sides of the design.
6. Check the X Axis Cable (Air Craft Cable) under the left & right side covers for pieces of plastic insulation missing off of the cable. If there are small chunks moving along the bare cable, they can cause problems with the pulley system for the cable.
7. If the metal is showing and frayed, call your distributor for a replacement X Cable: S/S1 (PN# 371660-01) & S/S2 (PN# 371660-02). The Part Replacement instructions or PRI for the cable assemblies is: S/S1 & S/S2 (PN# 110087-01)
8. There are 8 pulleys that the cable is routed around. If one of them binds, it can destroy an aircraft cable. If replacing the cable assembly it would be a good idea to replace all 8 pulleys, and the 4 bearings closest to the heads of the screws on the X Carriage (Hoop Holder) also. Pulley (PN# 371782-01) & Bearings (PN# 340045-01).
9. If the Horizontal columns in lettering or designs are distorted, check the Y Axis Belts under the left & right side covers for damage. Call your distributor to replace them if they are. The S/S2 also has a middle Y Axis Belt under the table top. S/S1 (PN# 501665-01) & S/S2 (PN# 502297-01)
10. A Belt Tension Meter (PN# 992165-01) is used to test the tension of the Y belts. The belts should be set at 12 to 14 lb.
11. If lettering appears to stair step there is a chance that the Y rail bearings are worn. The X Cable system may also cause this error. Call your distributor for more information.

THREAD BREAKS:

1. Check the Needle Depth & Hook Timing first. See the Operator's Manual for information on how to check & adjust the two settings.
2. Replace the current needle(s) as the tips of them will flatten out after normal use. Sometimes there are burrs that form in the eye of the needle due to extended use. Try to replace them on a regular basis. Try once a week, if sewing eight hours a day.
3. If the cone of thread that is being used is old or has been sitting on the shelf for a long time it will be dry and brittle. If the cone must be used, try spraying it with a pure silicone spray. The thread may however still break. Replace the cone.
4. Check the threading of the cone(s) all of the way to the eye of the needle, and presser foot to make sure the thread is inside of all thread guides.
5. Check all thread guides for burrs or scratches. Use a piece of thread to rub around inside of the thread guides to see if it catches on anything such as a burr. Try using some emery cloth to smooth out burrs. If the burrs are too deep, replace the thread guide.
6. Check the Hook Assembly for burrs, and smooth it out if possible or replace it.
7. A Loose Needle Case can cause thread breaks. If this is suspected, call your distributor for more information.
8. Check the Hook Support (Restraining Finger), for burrs. Try smoothing them out with emery paper. If burrs are too deep replace the part. Make sure it is positioned correctly. See the Operator's Manual in the hook timing section. S/S1 Ops. Manual (PN# 111883-01) & S/S2 Ops. Manual (PN# 112301-01)
9. Make sure the hook assembly is clean of excess thread and fuzz.
10. Oil the hook every 4 actual hours of sewing. See the Operator's Manual for oiling instructions.
11. Check thread tensions to make sure they aren't too tight. If the tensioner wheel moves in a jerky movement, loosen the knob, and check the threading. Replace the felt pads under, and on top of the tensioner wheel(s). (PN#342003-61).
12. Check the Presser Foot Height. The Bottom ring of the Presser Foot should be touching the cloth. If the Presser Foot is hitting too hard, check the rubber dampers inside the bottom of the Needle case by removing the black cover that has MELCO INDUSTRIES stamped on it. Replace the dampers if they are damaged.
13. Check the Needle Plate Hole for burrs on top, and underneath the hole.
14. Check the Needle Plate Hole centering. Make sure that the needle passes through the center the hole using a new needle on needles 1, 3 , and 6.
15. Check the Take Up Lever that is engaged to see if by picking up and down on it, that it travels up and down more than 1/8 inch. If it does there may be some teeth missing off of the Take Up Lever Drive Gear or the individual Take Up Lever itself, or they may just be worn
16. The other possibility is that the two gears aren't meshing enough. If either of these errors are evident, call your distributor, as the meshing of the gears should be performed by a trained technician.
17. Needle breaks and Bird Nesting can cause the Hook Timing to be off. Check the Hook Timing. If it needs adjustment see the Operator's Manual for instruction.
18. Hitting a hoop may cause the Needle Depth to be incorrect. Make sure that 1/2 to 3/4 of the eye of the needle shows inside of the hook.
19. It isn't recommended to use the Needle Gauge that was first supplied with the machine.
20. IMPORTANT: If sewing small lettering size .50 down to .25 in height, make sure the density isn't too high. A density of 60 stitches is too high. With this density there would be at least 3 needle strikes in the same hole. Try lower densities of 50 or 55 for .50 size letters, and maybe 45 for lettering with a size of .33 and below.
21. If a design is dense in stitches the same error may happen. This happens especially if the operator has reduced a design in size.
22. If the design is an Expanded Design, the stitch density can't be reduced. Call your puncher. Try slowing the sewing speed down to 500 or 550 to see if the design can be sewn. It may be a good idea anyway to slow the sewing speed down, due to the intricacy of the design.
23. The size of the eye of the needle can make a difference also. If the thread is breaking too often, try using a larger eyed needle. For instance: If a 70/10 size needle is being used, switch to a 75/11 or 80/12 to accommodate the thread, and the density of the design.
24. Make sure thread tensions aren't too tight. Check the Front six tensioners, and the Bobbin Case. If the Bobbin Tension keeps varying, it can cause sewing quality and thread break problems. Replace the Bobbin Case. Call your distributor for a replacement Bobbin Case. (PN# 341992-04)
25. Use adequate backing . An Inadequate amount of backing may allow part of the garment to be pulled down into the Needle Plate Hole, and cause a thread break. For instance: Don't use one piece of Tear Away backing to sew a Sweat Shirt. Use at least 2 pieces of Cut Away Backing so the cloth will be more stable.

FALSE THREAD BREAKS:

1. Check the whole thread path from the Thread Tree down to the needle.
2. Check the needle depth & hook timing.
3. Check the Take Up Spring to see if it's broken.
4. Call distributor if problem persists.

LOOPING & BIRD NESTING:

1. Looping can be caused by thread tensions that are too loose. This can be caused by the Main Tensioners (Front Six), and by the Bobbin Case. Looping can be on top or underneath the garment. Try turning the front six tensioner knobs 1 or 2 turns at a time to see if the problem will go away.
2. The looping may vary as are result of the knobs being too loose on the threaded tensioner post. If the knob moves too easily. remove the knob by unscrewing it. Spread the threaded post slightly with a large slotted screwdriver. This causes the threads of the post to better match the threads of the tensioner knob so they don't move so easily. If the problem persists, call your distributor to identify the Tensioner parts, and replace them.
3. If the Bobbin Tension changes too often, or won't tighten, replace it. Call your distributor to order one.
4. The density of the design may affect this error also. If the design density is too tight, the needle and thread will have a hard time fitting through the hole the needle has to make. Call your digitizer (puncher) if this is suspected.
5. The size of the eye of the needle can affect this problem. If the density of the design is high or the cloth is to elastic, change up to a larger eyed needle. For instance: If the needle currently being used is a 70/10 size needle, switch to a 75/11 or even a 80/12 size needle. This larger eyed needle will allow for smoother passage of the thread through the eye of the needle. Most thread being used is 40 gauge. If 30 gauge thread is being used, a larger eyed needle is required. Try an 80/12 size needle. When Metallic thread is being used, at least a 80/12 size needle should. If your garment permits, it is recommended to use a 90/14 size needle.
6. Make sure the Hook Support (Restraining Finger) isn't to close to the back of the indentation in the Hook Assembly. There should be some space in between the front of the tab on the finger and the back of the indentation. See the Operator's Manual for information about the placement.

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