S t a r l e t   1   &   2   T r o u b l e   S h o o t i n g   G u i d e

To identify the type of machine, it has a black sewing head with one needle per head. The serial number will start with Starlet 1-Head SN812_ _ _ _ or Starlet 2-Head SN840_ _ _ _.

THE MACHINE WON'T COME ON, AND THE DISPLAY IS BLANK:.

1. Check the power source. Make sure it is a working outlet.
2. Make sure the power cord is connected to the back of the machine, and the power source (Surge Protector or Line Stabilizer).
3. Check the Power Harness Connectors on the Power Supply for a strong connection. They are located inside the compartment under the left arm cover in the Starlet 1 under the machine at the back. On the Starlet 2: Push the circuit breaker switch to the off position, and remove the power cord from the Circuit Breaker Panel. Remove the 2 screws from the top two corners of the panel, and lower the panel so the power supply can be observed.
4. Lift the Keyboard Cover to check to see if the Keyboard Ribbon Cable is connected to the bottom of the Keyboard PCB. It is connected to the lower right corner of the PCB (Printed Circuit Board). The blue ribbon cable is about 1/2 inch wide. Follow the cable to it's other end, and make sure there aren't any scrapes through the insulation or bad pinches.
5. Check the power harness connection at the lower left corner of the Master Controller PCB inside the machine under the right arm cover.
6. The Starlet 1 does have 2 Circuit Breakers under the left cover to right of the Power Supply. They are cylindrical, and the buttons are on the back side. Make sure they are pushed in. The Starlet 2 Circuit breaker is at the rear of the machine where the power cord connects.
7. If none of the above fixes the problem, it is best to test the Logic Voltage at the Mother Board, located under the Keyboard of the machine.
8. See the Parts Replacement Instructions (PRI) for either machine. These instructions show how to replace the Power Supply,, and also how to tune the Logic Voltage (5.10 Volts DC). A Digital Voltmeter is required to complete the test & tuning of the Power Supply. Starlet 1-PRI (PN #110073-01), and Starlet 2-PRI (PN# 110071-01).
9. If the Logic Voltage (5.10VDC) can't be adjusted up to the required voltage or fluctuates too much, call your distributor to order a Power Supply. There were 2 types of power supplies used in these two types of machines.
10. If the Power Harness is connected to the Power Supply by 2 white plastic connectors, the part number for it is (PN# 341778-01). If the Power Harness is connected to the Power Supply with screws, the part number is (PN# 342721-01). These Power Supplies are not interchangeable, because of the power harness configurations.

THE KEYBOARD IS STILL BLANK:

1. If the Display is still blank with the voltage being correct at 5.10 Volts-DC, call your distributor, as the Display or Master Controller PCB may be damaged.

SEWING HEAD ERROR:

1. This error is usually caused by low voltage (5.10VDC). Again use the PRI's to see how to test the Logic Voltage. Their part numbers are listed in the first part of this guide.
2. Check the Z Shaft at the rear of the machine to see if it will rotate easily with the machine off. Remove the black cover from the back of the black tower that the thread spools sit on. There are 4 screws holding it on. Find the rubber belt. Pull down on the left side of the belt, and watch the needle. It normally should rotate easily. The only time the rotation should bind a little is when the presser foot is touching the needle plate, as the needle bar spring is being compressed at that point. If the shaft won't move, remove the needle plate, and check the hook for thread in or behind it. If no thread is visible, remove the Restraining Finger from the front of the hook, removing the one black slotted screw from the right side of the bar under the table top, near the hook assembly. Remove the Bobbin Case, and try to rotate the shaft inside. If the whole hook rotates, instead of just the inner basket inside the hook, there is something stuck inside the hook. If the needle broke, it could be a needle tip or just a short piece of thread. Remove the Hook Assembly from the machine by loosening the 3 slotted screws (flat head) at the back of the hook. There are only 3.
3. Observe the hook. Remove the curved bar that has 3 screws in a row to see if there is a needle tip or piece of thread inside. If not, and the hook is still bound, soak the hook in oil and see if the inner basket will turn after sitting a while. If it won't, call your distributor to order a hook assembly (PN# 341992-05).
4. If the hook is removed, and the Z Shaft still moves roughly or not at all, check the black encoder disk on the end of the Z Shaft to see if it is rubbing on the inside of the black U Shaped Encoder, attached to the bottom of the small green PCB, above the Z Motor. If it is call you distributor for information on how to reset positioning of the disk, as it has to be timed correctly.
5. If the disk isn't touching the encoder, and the Z Shaft still won't rotate, loosen the Z Motor mounts, and lift motor so the Z Motor belt can be removed from the motor pulley. It may be easier to lift the motor if the thread spool platform(s) were removed also. There are 4 small allen screws found in the gray foam that the spools sit on. When removed, try rotating the Z Shaft. If the movement is smooth now try rotating the Z Motor Pulley to see if the Motor is bound. If so, call your distributor for a Z Axis Motor: Starlet 1-(PN# 371656-01) & Starlet 2-(PN# 372288-01)
6. If the Z Shaft still moves roughly or not at all, remove the face plate from the front of the sewing head. Check all of the linkage inside for thread caught in any moving part. Remove it if there is.
7. If the Z Axis Shaft is still bound call your distributor for a service call.

HEAD JOG TIMEOUT:

1. This error is caused by much of the possibilities mentioned in the Sewing Head Error section of this guide. Use the section to try to solve the error.
2. The Head Up Encoder PCB located above the Z Motor (PN# 381506-01). The connector at the PCB may have loose or broken solder joints. The U Shaped Optical Encoder may be dirty or damaged. Try cleaning it with Rubbing Alcohol (Isopropyl) first. Call your distributor if the PCB is damaged.
3. The Z Axis Stepper may be damaged. Raise the right side arm of the machine to look under the Keyboard Assembly to see the PCB. It is the first box shaped PCB on the left.
4. If none of the above information fixes the error, call your distributor for the Stepper PCB (PN# 381625-01) & PRI (PN# 110065-01)
5. The Mother Board PCB may cause this error also if the Stepper doesn't fix the error: Starlet-1 (PN# 381626-01). & Starlet-2 (PN# 382203-01). Check to see if the fuse(s) may be burned for the Z Axis Stepper position before ordering
6. If the fuse is burned, it would be a better idea to replace the Mother Board & the Stepper(s) also, as a bad Stepper PCB can damage a new Mother Board.
7. If the fuse(s) are burned at either of the other positions also, it would be a good idea to replace all Steppers & Mother Board at one time.

STEPPER MOTOR ERROR:

1. Raise the right side arm cover that has the Keyboard attached to it.
2. Find the large circuit board in the bed of the machine. It is partially under the Table Top.
3. Check the fuses on this PCB to see if any are burned. There are 3 on a Starlet 1 , and 4 on a Starlet 2 machine.
4. If a fuse or fuses are damaged, a Stepper PCB is probably damaged. You may try replacing the fuse (2A-250V-Fast Acting).
5. If the fuse(s) are burned again, the Stepper PCB's for those fuse positions are damaged.
6. Starting from left to right, the Stepper PCB's are also in line with the fuses counting from left to right. The positions are as follows: Z - Y - X, and for a Starlet 2 they are Z (A) - Z (B) - Y - X.
7. The Steppers may be replaced for the positions. However, there is a possibility that the position(s) on the Mother Board may be damaged also. It is recommended to replace the Stepper(s) & Mother Board if the fuse(s) are damaged. Installing a new Stepper Board into a damaged Mother Board will cause the new Stepper Board(s) to be damaged again. Before ordering new PCB's, call your distributor to make sure which ones are really needed.

ROM ERROR:

The error may be seen as ROM Error 0000 or 0004

1. This error means that the Master Controller tested the particular Alphabet PCB to see if it is damaged. The majority of the time the Alphabet PCB isn't damaged.
2. Push SHIFT, CTRL, and then RESET, and try accessing the Alphabet again. Try entering lettering at that time.
3. If the Alphabet is not accessible, call your distributor for more information or replacement of the PCB.

FILE NOT FOUND, DRIVE NOT READY, CRC ERROR, BAD SECTOR WARNING, AND ILLEGAL SECTOR WARNING:

These are all Floppy Disk Drive read errors, and can stop the drive from reading the files on a disk.

1. These initials mean "Cyclic Redundancy Check". If this error shows after trying to read a design from floppy disk, reset the machine, after removing the disk from the disk drive.
2. Try a HARD RESET: Push SHIFT, then CTRL, then RESET on the Keyboard. Push the CAPS key so the red LED is out. Spell R-E-S-E-T using the letter keys on the Keyboard. The machine will come back up through the power up tests, and eventually read MEMORY INITIALIZED. Push SHIFT, CTRL, RESET to be able to start again. MAKE SURE THE DISK IS OUT OF THE DISK DRIVE BEFORE TRYING THIS RESET.
3. If it still fails to be read, try reading another disk to see if the disk drive will read any disk design.
4. If it will read all other designs from other disks, the disk that caused the error is damaged, and should be replaced.
5. If the disk drive won't read any disk without the error, try cleaning the read head with a disk drive cleaner that a computer store will carry. It will be much like the disks used in the drive, and will have a liquid cleaner to use.
6. If the disk drive still won't read a disk, Check all Disk Drive cable connections, and cables for damage.
7. Call your distributor, as the disk drive or Peripheral PCB may be damaged.

TAPE READER WON'T READ A TAPE:

1. Make sure the reader is on, and set for SPOOL on the switches on the Tape Reader.
2. Make sure the tape is wound through the tape guides, and reels correctly.
3. Make sure that the correct tape format is chosen at the Keyboard before trying to load the design: MELCO, TAJIMA, BARUDAN, etc..
4. Try cleaning the read holes at the center bottom block with the little brush that came with the reader. If not present, carefully remove the 2 mounting screws on the read block, next to the chassis face, and clean the top reader along with the read holes with rubbing alcohol, and a cotton swab. Do this operation with the tape reader off. Remember, when remounting the block, there is an alignment pin to help install the top block correctly.
5. If the clear plastic lens is missing from the read block, call your distributor for replacement as paper dust will clog up the sensors in the block.
6. If it still won't read try a Hard Reset as mentioned in the Disk Drive section, and try reading the tape again.
7. Check all cable connections in between the reader and the machine.
8. Call your distributor for more information, as the reader may need to be re-aligned or the Peripheral PCB may be damaged.

STITCH TIMEOUT:

1. This error can happen when using the Tape Reader to read a tape or during Disk Drive operation.
2. Try pushing the START Key again, and if it won't, try a Hard Reset to clear the error. It will also reset the design buffer. The design will have to be re-entered to continue.
3. Call your distributor if the error continues.

 

NO JUMP STITCH:

There are running stitches in between letters or objects in the design. The machine sews back to origin with running stitches at the end of a design, instead of one long stitch. The needle stays down at the end of a design. There is a crease down the center of large letters instead of a nice smooth column.

1. The Jump Stitch Solenoid and or the Mother Board PCB may be damaged.
2. Turn the machine off. A Digital Volt Meter will be needed to test the resistance of the Jump Stitch Solenoid at the connectors that are found by removing the black cover on top of the back of the sewing head.
3. The black cover has a red marked oil hole at each end of the cover. Remove the cover by removing all 4 allen screws.
4. Find the 2 clear connectors or in some cases 1 white connector. Disconnect them and use the meter set on resistance scale.
5. The meter should read 31 ohms if the solenoid is good. If it reads near 0, call your distributor to order a Jump Stitch Solenoid (PN# 340484-31).
6. To test the Jump Stitch, just sew a 5 inch Block- I. The vertical column should be smooth with no creases down the center of the column.
7. If the jump stitch function is still not working, call your distributor, as the Mother Board is probably damaged.

THREAD BREAKS:

1. Check the Needle Depth & Hook Timing first. See the Operator's Manual for information on how to check & adjust the two settings in the head timing section.
2. Replace the current needle(s) as the tips of them will flatten out after normal use. Sometimes there are burrs that form in the eye of the needle due to extended use. Try to replace them on a regular basis. Try once a week, if sewing eight hours a day.
3. If the cone of thread that is being used is old or has been sitting on the shelf for a long time it will be dry and brittle. If the cone must be used, try spraying it with a pure silicone spray. The thread may however still break. Replace the cone.
4. Check the threading of the cone(s) all of the way to the eye of the needle, and presser foot to make sure the thread is inside of all thread guides.
5. Check all thread guides for burrs or scratches. Use a piece of thread to rub around inside of the thread guides to see if it catches on anything such as a burr. Try using some emery cloth to smooth out burrs. If the burrs are too deep, replace the thread guide.
6. Check the Hook Assembly for burrs, and smooth it out if possible or replace it. Call your distributor for the part
7. Check the Hook Support (Restraining Finger), for burrs. Try smoothing them out with emery paper. If burrs are too deep replace the part. Make sure it is positioned correctly. Again see the Operator's Manual for this information.
8. Make sure the hook assembly is clean of excess thread and fuzz.
9. Oil the hook every 4 actual hours of sewing. See the Operator's Manual for oiling instructions.
10. Check thread tensions to make sure they aren't too tight. If the tensioner wheel moves in a jerky movement, loosen the knob, and check the threading. Replace the 3 felt pads inside of the tensioner wheel(s). (PN# 342003-61).
11. Check the Presser Foot Height. The Bottom ring of the Presser Foot should be touching the cloth. If the Presser Foot is hitting too hard, adjust the presser foot height up by raising the Presser Foot Holder Pin. See page 4-12 in the Operation Manual for instructions.
12. Check the Needle Plate Hole for burrs on top, and underneath the hole.
13. Check the Needle Plate Hole centering. Make sure that the needle passes through the center the hole using a new needle.
14. Needle breaks and Bird Nesting can cause the Hook Timing to be off. Check the Hook Timing. If it needs adjustment see the Operator's Manual.
15. Hitting a hoop may cause the Needle Depth to be incorrect. Make sure that 1/2 to 3/4 of the eye of the needle shows inside of the hook. It isn't recommended to use the Needle Gauge that was first supplied with the machine.
16. IMPORTANT: If sewing small lettering size .50 down to .25 in height, make sure the density isn't too high. 60 stitches per inch is too much density. There would be at least 3 needle strikes in the same hole in order to accommodate the density. Lower the density to 50 or even 45.
17. If a design is dense in stitches the same error may happen. This happens especially if the operator has reduced a design in size.
18. Try slowing the sewing speed down to 500 or 550 to see if the design can be sewn. It may be a good idea anyway to slow the sewing speed down, due to the intricacy of the design.
19. The size of the eye of the needle can make a difference also. If the thread is breaking too often, try using a larger eyed needle. For instance: If a 70/10 size needle is being used, switch to a 75/11 or 80/12 to accommodate the thread, and the density of the design.
20. Make sure thread tensions aren't too tight. Check the tensioner, and the Bobbin Case. If the Bobbin Tension keeps varying, it can cause sewing quality and thread break problems. Replace the Bobbin Case. Call your distributor for the replacement.
21. Use adequate backing . An Inadequate amount of backing may allow part of the garment to be pulled down into the Needle Plate Hole, and cause a thread break. For instance: Don't use one piece of Tear Away backing to sew a Sweat Shirt. Use at least 2 pieces of Cut Away Backing so the cloth will be more stable.

FALSE THREAD BREAKS:

1. Check the threading of the tensioner.
2. Check the Take up spring to see if it's broken.
3. Call distributor if it persists.

 

LOOPING & BIRD NESTING:

1. Looping can be caused by thread tensions that are too loose. This can be caused by the Main Tensioner , and by the Bobbin Case. Looping can be on top or underneath the garment. Try turning the tensioner knobs 1 or 2 turns at a time to see if the problem will go away.
2. The looping may vary as are result of the knob being too loose on the threaded tensioner post. If the knob moves too easily. remove the knob by unscrewing it. Spread the threaded post slightly with a large slotted screwdriver. This causes the threads of the post to better match the threads of the tensioner knob so they don't move so easily. If the problem persists, call your distributor to replace the part.
3. If the Bobbin Tension changes too often, or won't tighten, replace it. Call your distributor to order one.
4. The density of the design may affect this error also. If the design density is too tight, the needle and thread will have a hard time fitting through the hole the needle has to make. Call the company that punched the design if it does appear to be too dense so the density can be reduced by them or if it is lettering reduce it at the keyboard when entering the letters.
5. The size of the eye of the needle can affect this problem. If the density of the design is high or the cloth is to elastic, change up to a larger eyed needle. For instance: If the needle currently being used is a 70/10 size needle, switch to a 75/11 or even a 80/12 size needle. This larger eyed needle will allow for smoother passage of the thread through the eye of the needle. Most thread being used is 40 gauge. If 30 gauge thread is being used, a larger eyed needle is required. Try an 80/12 size needle. When Metallic thread is being used, at least a 80/12 size needle should. If your garment permits, it is recommended to use a 90/14 size needle.
6. Make sure the Hook Support (Restraining Finger) isn't to close to the back of the indentation in the Hook Assembly. There should be some space in between the front of the tab on the finger and the back of the indentation. See the Operator's Manual for information about the placement.

Return to Top