E M C   1 M   T r o u b l e   S h o o t i n g   G u i d e

To identify the type of machine, it has a white or gray single needle sewing head. The serial number will start with: White Sewing Head - EMC1-506_ _ _ _, White Sewing Head With Trimmer - EMC1-630_ _ _ _, Gray Sewing Head - EMC1-300_ _ _ _.

THE MACHINE WON'T COME ON. THE DISPLAY IS BLANK:

1. Check the power source. Make sure it is a working outlet.
2. Make sure it's plugged in.
3. Check to see if the fan is on at the back of the machine. If not, again check the above two items.
4. Check the Power Harness Connector in front of the Power Supply for a strong connection. It is located down inside the compartment under the Keyboard Assembly.

THE DISPLAY IS BLANK, AND THE FAN IS RUNNING:

1. Lift the Keyboard Cover to check to see if the Keyboard Ribbon Cable is connected to the bottom of the Keyboard PCB. Try adjusting the Intensity Adjustment at the right side of the Keyboard. See page 2-2 in the EMC1 Technical Manual for the white sewing head (PN# 110057-01), and page 2-2 in the Technical Manual for the gray sewing head (PN# 110160-01)
2. Logic Voltage Test: This test is done to make sure the logic chips in the CPU & XYZ PCB's have the correct voltage to be able to operate and transfer data.
3. If none of the above fixes the problem, it is best to test the Logic Voltage at the XYZ PCB under the back left cover opposite the Keyboard Cover. Remove the cover, and test the voltage at TP4 (+GND) & TP5 (+5V) on the XYZ PCB with part number 003663-01. The test points are located at the upper left edge of the board.
4. A Digital Multimeter will be needed to perform the test.
5. Disconnect Computer Interface Cable before test & adjustment.
6. If the sewing head is gray, the XYZ PCB is called the 4 AXIS PCB, and has the part number 006838-01, the test points are located at the upper left edge of the board. The test points are TP3 (+5V) & TP4 (GND). Note: The machine must be powered on for this procedure.
7. The voltage should be set at 5.00VDC to 5.03VDC. To tune the voltage have the Keyboard raised, and laying on it's face. Do Not Disconnect the Keyboard Ribbon Cable to perform the test.
8. The adjustment Pot or Screw is near Power Harness Connector & LED, down in front of the Power Supply. Use a small screwdriver similar to the one that is used to replace needles to make the adjustment. Turn the adjustment screw clockwise to adjust up to the required voltage (5.00VDC to 5.03VDC).
9. If there is little or no voltage showing on the Digital Volt Meter, it would be best to call your distributor for a replacement Power Supply. The part number is: 005570-01 along with PRI (PN# 110154-01).
10. The Technical manual has the information explaining how to replace the part. The part number for the manual is: 110057-01. See Pages: 3-10 through 3-11 for the EMC1 with a white sewing head. See pages 3-11 through 3-13 in Technical Manual with part number 110160-01 for the EMC1 with a gray sewing head.

THE KEYBOARD DISPLAY IS STILL BLANK:

1. If the Power Supply is replaced, and the Display is still blank, and the voltage test at the CPU reads correctly, replace the Keyboard PCB. The part number is: 384309-11. The Technical Manual has information explaining how to replace the Keyboard. The part number for the technical manual is: 110057-01 (pp. 3-9 through 3-10) for the EMC1 with a white sewing head & 110160-01 (pp. 3-10 through 3-11) with the gray sewing head.
2. The Keyboard has been replaced, and the Display is still blank. Replace the CPU PCB. The part number is 005106-01. See pages 3-6 through 3-8 in the technical manual (PN# 110057-01) for the white sewing head, and pages 3-6 through 3-8 in the technical manual (PN# 110160-01) for the gray sewing head.
3. If the Display doesn't come on after replacing the Power Supply, Keyboard, or CPU Bd., call your distributor for a service call.

THE DISPLAY IS ON, BUT BY PRESSING ON THE KEYS NONE OF THE MENUS WILL CHANGE. THE ARROW KEYS WON'T RESPOND EITHER:

1. Try turning the machine off, and then on again.
2. If the Keyboard is still inoperable, use the information in this guide to try to determine the cause of the error concerning the Power Supply , Keyboard, and CPU PCB.

THE PANTOGRAPH MOVES ON IT'S OWN, FORWARD OR BACK OR ONLY LEFT OR ONLY RIGHT:

1. Replace the Keyboard PCB, as one of the keys may be sticking.

THE MACHINE WON'T STOP SEWING IF THE STOP KEY IS DEPRESSED OR FRAMES BACK ON IT'S OWN, AND WON'T STOP FRAMING BACK:

1. Turn the machine off and wait at least 15 seconds, and turn it on again.
2. Use the Head Timing Menu to "Go to Head Up" when the machine powers up.
3. Use the Power Fail Rescue Function in the HOME MENU to retain the design, and try to finish the design.
4. If the machine still won't stop using the STOP Key or stop Framing Back, replace the Keyboard PCB.

THE MACHINE STARTS SEWING ON IT'S OWN:

1. If this has happened more than once replace the Keyboard PCB, as the START Key is probably engaged when it shouldn't be. (PN # 384309-11)

THE PANTOGRAPH MOVES BACK AND FORTH TOO FAST OR TOO SLOW:

This is when the Arrow keys are used to move the pantograph when the machine is not sewing so alignment of the hoop can be changed.

1. Depress the FAST/SLOW Key to reset the pantograph jog speed so it moves slow or fast. This is not a fault of the Keyboard. It is a jog speed control for the pantograph not a sewing speed control.

THE MACHINE DISPLAY FLASHES "EPBIOS" & "UNIT NUMBER", AND THE MACHINE WON'T COME ON LINE:

1. Check the EDS system in the computer to see if the machine is still enabled. If the machine is to come on line it must be enabled in EDS whether EDS2 or EDS3 is being used. If there is only one peripheral, enable a second one in peripheral menu to make sure EDS is scanning for peripherals. Use page 10-3 in the EDS2-manual, and page 11-2 in the EDS3-manual to find out how to enable the machine(s).
2. Check the configuration of the machine. Use the information in the Technical Manual (PN# 110057-01). It begins on page 1-6 (white sewing head) & page 1-6 in (PN# 110160-01) in technical for the (gray sewing head) to re-configure the machine. If the machine type (EMC1 or EM1MT) or the Unit Number is incorrect, the machine won't even come on line.
3. Check the Interface Cable that connects the computer to the sewing peripheral for strong connection or if it is connected at all. This cable may be damaged. The part numbers for the various lengths vary. Call your distributor for information.
4. If the machine still won't come on line, call your distributor. The CPU Bd. in the sewing peripheral may be at fault. The other possibility is that if the EDS version the computer is using is EDS2, the Network Bd. may be damaged. If the EDS3 software is being used, it may be improperly configured. COM 2 should be disabled in the software. This is usually done when EDS3 is loaded prior to operating EDS3.

THE PANTOGRAPH WON'T MOVE AT ALL WHEN SETTING HOME:

1. Test the Logic Voltage as explained in the section concerning the adjustment in this guide.
2. If the Logic Voltage tests correctly, try configuring the machine See "Configuring the Peripheral", in the technical manual Re-configuring the machine is a very good way of resetting the machine for most errors that are out of the norm.
3. The 24 volt source may be dead in the Power Supply. To test, use a Digital Volt Meter. For (White Sewing Head), use test points TP1 (24V) & TP5 (GND) on the XYZ PCB with (PN# 003663-01). Use the test points TP1(24V) & TP4 (GND), on the 4 AXIS PCB with (PN# 006838-01).
4. If the voltage is not present or very low, replace the Power Supply (PN#005570-01)or possibly the XYZ PCB (White Sewing Head) & 4 AXIS PCB (Gray Sewing Head). See the Technical Manual for replacement instructions.
5. One or both of the motors could be damaged. Power the machine down, and remove the Electronics Cover. See page 3-5 in the Technical Manual to find this cover. There are 3 red LED's & 1 Green LED in the upper left corner of the CPU PCB. Push the pantograph towards the back and front (Y AXIS) of the machine slowly, and observe the 2 red LED's closest to the Green LED to see if they light at all. Try pushing the X Carriage (Hoop Holder - X AXIS) left & right slowly to see if the same 2 LED's light at all. If they do, the motors, and wiring should be undamaged.
6. If the either of the motors fail to light the 2 middle red LED's, call your distributor for more information to determine what parts are needed. A service call may be required. The part numbers for the motors are (X Motor 005121-01) & (Y Motor 000465-01).
7. It would also be a good idea to check the X & Y Axis Motor Wiring connections.
8. The same procedures are to be used when both or only one Axis (X or Y) is not moving.
9. Use the same procedures as mentioned to test the bad motor(s).

SELECTING A HOOP SIZE:

The machine errors when doing so.

1. If "Machine Running" or "Run Job Error" shows when trying to select a hoop size, push the MENU Key until "RESET MENU" shows.
2. Push ENTER, and "System Reset" will show.
3. Push ENTER again to reset the machine.
4. Push the MENU Key until reaching the Design Menu, and set up the design again.

EITHER THE X OR Y AXIS OR BOTH WON'T MOVE:

 

1. Use the same instructions for not setting home, in this guide, to troubleshoot this error.

THE PANTOGRAPH UNLOCKS MID-SEWOUT:

1. Check to see if the garment has caught on any part of the machine. This will cause a stoppage, as any hesitation in the X or Y Axis movements will cause the Pantograph or X Carriage to unlock as if the motor is turned off.
2. This feature is designed into the software to protect the operator, and the machine from further harm or damage.
3. If the garment has gotten caught in the chassis or there is a Bird's Nest of thread under the Needle Plate, push the Stop button. If it won't stop sewing, turn the machine off. Wait 15 seconds, and power it back up again. Try a POWER FAIL RESCUE to see if you can recover the design. See page 2-32 (W. H.) & 4-6 (G. H.)
4. If the error continues, and there are no apparent reasons for the stoppage in the pantograph movement, turn the machine off. Remove the Keyboard Cover, and check the Y Motor wiring connections as seen in the Technical Manual on page (3-12).
5. Check especially the braided cable (X Flex Cable PN# 003809-01). This cable transfers all power to the X Motor under the small cover at the left side of the Black Pantograph Bar through the X Interface PCB. If the X Axis, (left & right movement-Hoop Holder), is the only direction that won't move, replace the X Flex Cable first. If the Y Axis, (Back & Forth movement-Pantograph), is the direction that doesn't move, replace the Y Motor (PN#000465-01).

DESIGN LOSES REGISTRATION MID-SEWOUT OR JUST SEWS ERRATICALLY:

1. Use all possible fixes listed on prior pages of this guide. Especially try the Re-configuration in the Operator's Manual listed in the table of contents of each type of machine's manual.

X AND OR Y RACK NOT DONE:

This is the speed difference, mechanically or electronically, of the X or Y Axis that is not in accordance with that of the design information.

1. Oil the pantograph according to the information in the Operator's Manual on pages 3-11 through 3-15 (W. H..) & 5-10 through 5-15 (G. H..) first if it hasn't been done yet or lately.
2. Try a Re-configuration as outlined in the OPERATOR'S MANUAL.
3. Check all X & Y Motor wiring connections as suggested in earlier pages of this guide.
4. Look under the right end of the pantograph where the 3 oil holes are to see if the grounding nut is tight or there at all.
5. Make sure the X & Y axis move easily when the machine is powered off. If not check both Motors, and all pulleys for free movement. The X Motor is under the small black cover on the left of the black Pantograph Bar. The Y Motor is under the Keyboard of the machine as seen in the Technical Manual.
6. Test the Logic Voltage as suggested on pages 1 & 2 of this guide.
7. If the error seems to be just the X Axis (Left & Right- Hoop Holder Movement), replace the X Flex Cable (PN# 003809-01), and the X Motor next.
8. The next step would be to call your distributor for a service call.

RACK LIMIT ERROR:

The hoop has moved too close to either it's X or Y Axis limit.

1. Make sure the hoop size is selected in the Home Menu before starting the design.
2. Make sure the Trace function is used to avoid this error.

Z TIME OUT ERROR:

This error means that there is a stoppage of the Z Axis movement. This means that the Take Up Lever stopped moving up & down, and the Needle bar has stopped moving up & down, and the Hook has stopped rotating. They are all part of the same movement.

1. Check the hook to see if there is any thread in or behind the Hook Assembly. If so, remove it. When the thread is removed, use the Head Timing Menu.
2. Press Enter once when reaching the menu, and press ALT & UP ARROW simultaneously to "Go To Head Up".
3. If the error continues, remove the Retaining Finger or as seen on page 3-25 (W. H..) or 5-27 through 5-28 (G. H.) of the Operator's Manuals (PN#110056-01) for (W. H..) & (PN# 110159-01) for (G. H..).
4. Remove the Bobbin Case, and try to rotate the spindle on the inside of the hook assembly. It should rotate independently of the hook assembly if the hook isn't bound by thread or a broken needle tip.
5. If the hook is bound, remove the hook from the sewing peripheral by loosening the 3 larger slotted (flat head) screws at the back of the hook assembly. See page 5-26 in the Operator's Manual (G. H.. only) to find the screws.
6. If the inner basket of the hook won't rotate by trying to turn the spindle inside, remove the curved bar on the outside of the hook. It is held on by 3 very small slotted screws. Try to remove any thread or needle tip that may have been hidden by this bar. If the hook is still bound, replace the hook with a new one (PN#001917-01).
7. The inner basket rotates when the Restraining Finger is removed, but the Z Time-Out Error persists. Remove the needle from the needle bar that is currently indexed. Turn the peripheral off. Remove the white or gray cover at the rear of the sewing head.. This cover is behind the Thread Spool Saddle Bag Assembly. Once removed, try rotating the toothed pulley with the black rubber belt clockwise to see if the Needle Bar can be raised and lowered easily.
8. If the pulley can't be rotated, remove the white or gray cover on the face of the Needle Case that has a big red "S". Loosen the screw to the silver needle bar clamp inside the needle case on the needle bar. Try to move the needle bar up and down. If it moves, try rotating the pulley at the back of the sewing head again.
9. If it still won't move try oiling all of the sewing head oil ports. Let the oil soak in for an hour. Try rotating the pulley again. If it still won't rotate, call your distributor.
10. If the pulley rotates easily through 360 degrees, do so until the Take Up Lever is all of the way up. The engaged needle will be down.
11. Turn the peripheral back on. Press the Menu key . Go to the Head Timing Menu. Press ENTER. Press the ALT and UP ARROW simultaneously. The display should read "Go To Head Up". If it doesn't call your distributor.

THE TAKE UP LEVER MOVES UP & DOWN, BUT THE NEEDLE BAR WON'T COME DOWN TO SEW:

1. Refer to the Needle Depth section in the Operator's Manual to see how to check the adjustment of the Upper Dead Point Stop if the needle bar still won't come down to sew. If the stop is in the wrong position the needle bar won't come down to sew
2. If the engaged needle bar won't stay down when it is pulled down, call your distributor as the Reciprocator may be damaged. It is what drives the Needle Bar up and down when engaged.

NOT AT HEAD UP ERROR:

The Z Encoder has detected that Z Drive shaft isn't in position to be at Head Up. A Take UP Lever, Needle Bar or the Hook may not be in the correct position for this to happen. All three positions have to be correct for the Z Axis to be at the head up position.

1. Use the information in the Z Time Out section of this guide to try to determine the cause for the error

Z TRACKING ERROR:

1. Use the Z Time Out Error information to try to detect the cause for this error.

THE SEWING QUALITY OF THE DESIGN IS JAGGED AROUND COLUMNS, AND SOME TIMES OBJECTS ARE MALFORMED. THE COLUMNS OR OBJECTS DON'T MEET THE FILLS OR OTHER OBJECTS IN THE DESIGN:

1. Check the hooping of the garment first. It may be too loose in the hoop. The material may be to elastic to hoop tightly, so make sure that there is enough backing being used.
2. KK100 adhesive spray can keep the garment in place with the backing, and make it more stable.
3. Oil the pantograph at regular intervals to keep the assembly moving smoothly. See the Operator's Manual for information. Check all of the X & Y Axis belts to see if they are torn or breaking.
4. If any of the belts are, refer to the Illustrated Part Manual (PN# 110103-01)-(W. H..) & (PN# 110161-01)-(G. H..), to find the part number for the damaged belt(s). Call your distributor's Part's Department to replace the belt.
5. Note: The Belt Tension meter is needed to test the tension of the new belt(s). (PN# 992165-01).
6. The X or Y belt tension may be too loose. Call your distributor if this is suspected.
7. The X Carriage or Hoop Holder Assembly may have too much play in it's rollers. Remove the slide in Table Top, and look under the Black Pantograph Bar. Hold onto the 4 corners of the X Carriage, and push towards the front, and back of the machine to see if there is any play in these directions. Refer to (Doc# 110178-01 Rev A) to see how to re-adjust the rollers.
8. Check the 2 Hoop Holder Pins on the X Carriage to see if either is loose in the plate they are mounted on. If either of them are, call your distributor as the X Carriage will have to be replaced. If either of the pins is bent to one side the X carriage will need to be replaced.
9. Check the metal hoop bracket on the hoop that is being used, as the slots that fit the pins may be worn. The bracket may be loosely mounted on the wooden part of the hoop. Try another hoop to verify a bad hoop bracket. Make sure the wooden part of the hoop isn't cracked either. Call your distributor for replacement hoops.
10. If the Full- Height Jacket -Back Hoop is being used, don't have the sewing speed set at 650 as this hoop flexes due to the weight of the hoop verses the Hoop Bracket, and the strength of the pantograph. Sewing at a slower speed can make all of the difference.
11. If the error is occurring while using the Cap Frame Hoop, check the wires mounted on the driver for tension. If the black bar on the driver is too loose it can cause distortion. The cables can be replaced if they are too long. Call your distributor for more information.
12. There may be damaged bearings in the Pantograph or Y Carriages. The X or Y Motors could be damaged. Call your distributor for more information or a service call.
13. Make sure that the thread tension in between the Tensioners, and the Bobbin Case aren't too tight.

NO JUMP STITCH:

There are running stitches in between letters or objects in the design. The machine sews back to origin with running stitches at the end of a design, instead of one long stitch. The needle stays down at the end of a design. There is a crease down the center of large letters instead of a nice smooth column.

1. The Jump Stitch Solenoid and or the Color Change PCB are damaged.
2. IMPORTANT: Turn the machine off.
3. Remove the left Electronics Cover to see the Color Change PCB.
4. A Digital Volt Meter will be needed to test the resistance of the Jump Stitch Solenoid at the connector on the top of the sewing head, under the Thread Saddle Bag Assembly.
5. The connector will have 2 white wires that can be traced down to the solenoid as it sticks out of the left side of the sewing head.
6. Disconnect the connector, and test the across the 2 wires.
7. The meter should read 31 ohms if the solenoid is good.
8. If it reads near 0, call your distributor to order a Jump Stitch Solenoid (PN# 001801-01), and a Color Change PCB (PN#001309-01).
9. If the resistance tests at 31 ohms, call to replace just the Color Change PCB.
10. To test the Jump Stitch, just sew a 5 inch Block- I. The vertical column should be smooth with no creases down the center of the column.

THREAD BREAKS:

1. Check the Needle Depth & Hook Timing first. See the Operator's Manual on pages 3-18 through 3-25 (W. H.) & 5-18 through 5-30 (G. H..)., for information on how to check & adjust the two settings.
2. Replace the current needle(s) as the tips of them will flatten out after normal use. Sometimes there are burrs that form in the eye of the needle due to extended use. Try to replace them on a regular basis, once a week, if sewing eight hours a day.
3. If the cone of thread that is being used is old or has been sitting on the shelf for a long time it will be dry and brittle. If the cone must be used, try spraying it with a pure silicone spray. The thread may still break.
4. Check the threading of the cone(s) all of the way to the eye of the needle, and presser foot to make sure the thread is inside of all thread guides.
5. Check all thread guides for burrs or scratches. Use a piece of thread to rub around inside of the thread guides to see if it catches on anything such as a burr. Try using some emery cloth to smooth out burrs. If the burrs are too deep, replace the thread guide.
6. Check the Hook Assembly for burrs, and smooth it out if possible or replace it. Part Number (#001917-01).
7. Check the Hook Support (Restraining Finger or UTC Retaining Tab), for burrs. Try smoothing them out with emery paper. If burrs are too deep replace the part. Make sure it is positioned correctly. See the Operations Manual.
8. Make sure the hook assembly is clean of excess thread and fuzz.
9. Oil the hook every 4 actual hours of sewing. See the Operator's Manual for oiling instructions.
10. Check thread tensions to make sure they aren't too tight. If the tensioner wheel moves in a jerky movement, loosen the knob, and check the threading. Replace the felt pads under, and on top of the tensioner wheel. (PN# 005198-01)(thin) & (PN# 005198-02) (thick).
11. Check the Presser Foot Height. The Bottom ring of the Presser Foot should be touching the cloth. If the Presser Foot is hitting too hard, check the rubber dampers inside the bottom of the Needle case by removing the white or gray cover that has a big red "S" stamped on it. Replace the dampers if they are damaged. See Parts Manual for the part numbers.
12. Check the Needle Plate Hole for burrs on top, and underneath the hole.
13. Check the Needle Plate Hole centering. Make sure that the needle passes through the center the hole using a new needle.
14. Check the Take Up Lever to see if by picking up and down on it, that it travels up and down more than 1/4 inch. If it does there may be some teeth missing off of the Take Up Lever Drive Gear or the individual Take Up Lever itself, or they may just be worn
15. The other possibility is that the two gears aren't meshing enough. If either of these errors are evident, call your distributor, as the meshing of the gears should be performed by a trained technician.
16. Needle breaks and Bird Nesting can cause the Hook Timing to be off. Check the Hook Timing. If it needs adjustment see the Operator's Manual.
17. Hitting a hoop may cause the Needle Depth to be incorrect. Make sure that 1/2 to 3/4 of the eye of the needle shows inside of the hook. It isn't recommended to use the Needle Gauge that was first supplied with the machine.
18. IMPORTANT: If sewing small lettering size .50 down to .25 in height, make sure the density isn't too high. The default in EDS is 4.2. This is 60 stitches per inch. At this density, there would be at least 3 needle strikes in the same hole in order to accommodate the 4.2 density.
19. If a design is dense in stitches the same error may happen. This happens especially if the operator has reduced a design in size.
20. If the design is an Expanded Design, the stitch density can't be reduced. See your EDS Manual for information about design density. Try slowing the sewing speed down to 500 or 550 to see if the design can be sewn. It may be a good idea anyway to slow the sewing speed down, due to the intricacy of the design.
21. The size of the eye of the needle can make a difference also. If the thread is breaking too often, try using a larger eyed needle. For instance: If a 70/10 size needle is being used, switch to a 75/11 or 80/12 to accommodate the thread, and the density of the design.
22. Make sure thread tensions aren't too tight. Check the tensioners, and the Bobbin Case. If the Bobbin Tension keeps varying, it can cause sewing quality and thread break problems. Replace the Bobbin Case. See the Parts Manual for the part number, and call your distributor for a replacement Bobbin Case.
23. Use adequate backing . An Inadequate amount of backing may allow part of the garment to be pulled down into the Needle Plate Hole, and cause a thread break. For instance: Don't use one piece of Tear Away backing to sew a Sweat Shirt. Use at least 2 pieces of Cut Away Backing so the cloth will be more stable.

FALSE THREAD BREAKS:

1. Check the threading of the tensioner.
2. Check the Take up spring to see if it's broken.
3. Call distributor if problem persists.

LOOPING & BIRD NESTING:

1. Looping can be caused by thread tensions that are too loose. This can be caused by the Main Tensioner, and by the Bobbin Case. Looping can be on top or underneath the garment. Try turning the main tensioner knob 1 or 2 turns at a time to see if the problem will go away.
2. The looping may vary as are result of the knobs being too loose on the threaded tensioner post. If the knob moves too easily. remove the knob by unscrewing it.
3. Spread the threaded post slightly with a large slotted screwdriver. This causes the threads of the post to better match the threads of the tensioner knob so they don't move so easily. If the problem persists, use the Parts Manual, to identify the Tensioner parts, and call your distributor to replace them.
4. If the Bobbin Tension changes too often, or won't tighten, replace it. Call your distributor to order one.
5. The density of the design may affect this error also. If the design density is too tight, the needle and thread will have a hard time fitting through the hole the needle has to make. See your EDS Manual for information on Design Density. The density when sewing lettering can affect this error.
6. If sewing small lettering, the 4.2 default is too high for lettering ranging from .50 down to .25 letter height. The 4.2 density is 60 stitches per inch. If using a Premier Keyboard for the controller, see pages 3-2 & 3-3 of the Premier Manual.
7. The size of the eye of the needle can affect this problem. If the density of the design is high or the cloth is to elastic, change up to a larger eyed needle. For instance: If the needle currently being used is a 70/10 size needle, switch to a 75/11 or even a 80/12 size needle. This larger eyed needle will allow for smoother passage of the thread through the eye of the needle.
8. Most thread being used is 40 gauge. If 30 gauge thread is being used, a larger eyed needle is required. Try an 80/12 size needle. When Metallic thread is being used, at least a 80/12 size needle should. If your garment permits, it is recommended to use a 90/14 size needle.
9. Make sure the Hook Support (Restraining Finger or UTC Retaining Tab) isn't to close to the back of the indentation in the Hook Assembly. There should be some space in between the front of the tab on the finger and the back of the indentation. See the Operator's Manual for information about the placement.

CAP FRAME IN:

1. This error will show if trying to SET HOME with the Cap Frame Driver mounted on the machine.
2. If the Cap Frame driver isn't mounted on the machine, the Micro Switch in the Cap Frame Mounting Block is damaged. Replace it with (PN# 282911-01). This switch is on the White Sewing Head only. The Gray Sewing uses a shorting pin.

THE CAP FRAME IS POPPING OFF OF THE CAP FRAME DRIVER OR THE DESIGN IS BEING FLATTENED OUT NEAR AN EDGE OF THE CAP FRAME SEWING FIELD:

1. Make sure the Cap Frame Driver Shaft is pushed all of the way in as far as it will go. Make sure it won't come out by pulling on it to make sure it won't pull out during sewing. Don't over tighten the thumb screw under or on the Driver Shaft Mounting Block as the threads of the block can be stripped through over tightening.
2. The front surface of the front collar should be flush with the end of the shaft. If the collar settings are incorrect on either end, the sewing field "Mechanically", won't match the sewing field according to the limits set up by the software.
3. Check the cables attached to the Cap Frame Driver. They may be too loose. If the black bar on the driver can be picked up off of the arc of the driver, out of the groove it rides in, the cables can be too loose. There are two Cap Head Allen Screws at each end of the bar. Loosen only two at one end of the bar. Pull the block at the end of the bar towards the out side of the bar.
4. IMPORTANT: Be careful not to bow the bar, as it would be too tight then. If the cables can't be tightened any further, replace the cables with (PN# 402913-01).
5. If the Driver seems to be in good shape, check the Needle Plate to see if the Cap Frame has been causing any wear marks on the edges.
6. If so, turn the machine off. Have only the Cap Frame Driver mounted on the pantograph. Pull the black pantograph bar forward until the front arc of the Cap Frame Driver is just over the back two edges of the Needle Plate. Center the driver in accordance with left & right. Check to see if the front arc of the driver touches either the left or right of the Needle Plate.
7. If it does the Driver may be warped or the cables may be too loose. If there is another Driver present check it in the same manner. If it clears by at least 1/16 of an inch it is correct. Call your distributor if a warped Cap Frame Driver is suspected. There may also be a problem with the Cap Frame Driver Mounting Block. This will also require information from your distributor.
8. Make sure the Mounting Wheels on the Cap Frame Driver are not loose or damaged. Replace if damaged.
9. Check the Cap Frame for bends in it other than normal. Use the Illustrated Parts Manual to order parts for the Cap Frame or Cap Frame Driver.
10. Check the X Carriage on the pantograph to see if it has too much play in the rollers. Use the information from this guide to adjust the play to where it is minimal.

NOTE: In this guide (W. H..) means White Sewing Head-EMC1M, and (G. H..) means Gray Sewing Head-EMC1M.

 

 

EMC1MT

TRIMMER SECTION:

Trimmer Not Home:

This error has to do with weather the movable knife went home or not. It is located under the Needle Plate.

1. Remove the needle plate to see if there is thread that was trimmed laying inside or jammed under the Fixed Knife. See Figure 2-6a on page 2-9 of the EMC1M Technical Manual (PN# 110057-01) to identify the trimmer parts. Bird Nesting under the needle plate may also cause the error.
2. Check the Under Thread Presser as seen in Figure 2-10 on pages 2-13 in the Technical Manual to find out what it should look like damaged or undamaged. If the profile of the part is like the damaged one, call your distributor to order the part (PN# 003119-01).
3. Check the Fixed Blade Pressure as seen on pages 2-9 through 2-12 in the Technical Manual to see how to properly set the blade pressure as to much pressure can stop the blade from going to the home position
4. Check the "Home Position" of the Movable Knife as seen in figure 2-11 on page 2-14 in the Technical Manual. The procedure for adjusting the Home Position has changed slightly. Call your distributor for more information.
5. The Cam Follower may be sticking inside the Cam after activation. Call your distributor if a Z Time out occurs along with the Trimmer Not Home Error, as the Cam Follower may in fact be sticking in the cam when it should be out. The Trimmer Assembly maybe damaged.
6. The error may be cause by an electronic problem. The Home Position sensor for the Movable Knife may be damaged. The XYZ Interface may be damaged at the Trimmer circuit. Remove the needle plate. Try a Trim Immediate in the Trim Menu to see if any part of the Trimmer System does not activate. Watch the Movable Knife, Grabber, or Picker. The Trim Immediate may have to be performed several times to see if any of these parts don't activate. Call your distributor to replace the XYZ Interface Bd. (PN# 003663-01), if Trimmer System never activates. For more information, call your distributor.

The Trimmer System Activates, But Isn't Trimming the Thread:

Grabber Not Home may also be associated with this error if the thread isn't being cut.

1. Check all of the before mentioned information having to do with the Trimmer System first.
2. Another possibility for the error is that the Picker is not timed or tuned correctly anymore. See pages 2-16 through 2-18 in the Technical Manual to see how to do so. The Picker Tool Fixture (PN# 995339-01). Thread may wrap around the Picker holding it in, causing a Z Time out Error also, as the built up thread will stop the Hook from rotating. Again the Picker Timing is probably out of tune.
3. Make sure that the thread tension isn't too loose at the Main Tensioner or Bobbin Case. Too loose of tension will not facilitate a good clean trim. Try starting with the pre-tensioner set so that the top of the split screw inside pre-tensioner knob is flush with the top of the knob. This can also cause long tails after a trim.

Sometimes the Machine Will Leave Too Short of a Tail at the End of a Trim:

1. Check the Main Tensioner & Bobbin Case tensions set so they aren't too tight. If the thread tensions are too tight, it can cause a sling-shot affect so the tail is too short, and the thread will pull right out of the Grabber & Needle Eye when it starts to sew again. The Main Tensioner Wheel can't turn when the needle comes down to sew after the trim due to the tightness of the thread tension. Replacing a Bobbin Case may help stop this error also.
2. If the Picker is not tuned correctly, it can let go of the thread before it is supposed to. Use the Picker Tuning section in the Technical Manual to fix this problem.
3. If the thread trim is frayed after a cut the thread may be being pulled apart. The Fixed Blade Pressure may need to be adjusted. See pages 2-9 through 2-12 in the Technical Manual (PN# 110057-01). It may be necessary to replace the Fixed Blade (PN# 003120-01)
4. Select Timing may be incorrect. This is where the Trimmer Assembly is tuned to the Z Axis or rotation of the Main Head Shaft. This timing should be performed by a trained technician. If the none of the possible fixes listed in the trimmer section fix the trimmer errors the machine has call your distributor for a service call.

Grabber Not Home:

This is where the Grabber did not fully retract in order to activate the Grabber Home switch.

1. As mentioned in the first part of the Trimmer Section, if the top thread wasn't cut, the grabber blade can't retract to it's home position. The thread has to be cut to do so. if the thread isn't cut, use the trimmer section of this guide to try to determine the reason why it didn't.
2. If the actuator screw that is supposed to enable the Home Position Switch isn't touching the switch arm, and the blade appears to be in the fully retracted position, then the actuator screw may need to be adjusted so it does touch the switch arm with enough pressure to do so.
3. To find the switch, remove the upside down triangular cover at the back left side of the sewing head by removing the 2 screws to the cover to be able to see the Grabber Motor Assembly. If it is still unclear as to how to adjust the actuator screw, call your distributor for more information.
4. The Grabber Blade may be out too far at a trim or in too far. This will not necessarily cause a Grabber Not Home Error, but it may stop it from picking up the thread after a trim. See pages 2-18 through 2--19 in the Technical Manual to see how the blade is to be adjusted.

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