E M C   6 / 4 M   &   6 / 4 T   T r o u b l e   S h o o t i n g   G u i d e

To identify the type of machine, it has a white sewing head with six needles, and four sewing heads. The serial number will start with 917_ _ _ _ , 927_ _ _ _ ,942_ _ _ _, or 952_ _ _ _ .

ADDITIONAL MANUALS:

	Technical Manual Part Number: 110049-01
	Operation Manual Part Number: 110023-01
	Parts Ill. Man. Part Number: 110090-01

If you do not have these manuals please order them. You will find them useful through out this trouble shooting guide.

Note: Any circuit board that is requested to be ordered can be identified by its assembly number. The number will always be written onto the board. For example:

ASSY NO. 005106-11

	" " 003437-11
	" " 005133-01
	" " 005135-01

One of these number should appear in the corner of the circuit board.

THE MACHINE WON'T COME ON. THE DISPLAY IS BLANK:

1. Check the power source. Make sure it is a working outlet. Put a light into the outlet and turn it on.
2. If you have a line condition , bypass it and place the power cord from the machine straight to the outlet.
3. Make sure it's plugged in.
4. Check to see if the fan is on at the power supply area. If not, again check the above two items.
5. Check the Power Harness Connector in front of the Power Supply for a strong connection. It is located above the fan, near the top . There are three cables. Do this with the power off.

THE DISPLAY IS BLANK, AND THE FAN IS RUNNING:

1. Turn the unit off and remove the Keyboard Cover to check and see if the Keyboard Ribbon Cable is connected to the bottom of the Keyboard PCB. Remove it and replace it. Turn the unit back on and adjust the Intensity Adjustment knob on the right side of the Keyboard. See Technical Manual for instructions 4-2.
2. If none of the above fix the problem, it is best to test the Logic Voltage at the CPU PCB. Turn the unit. Remove the rear most covers in the back of the unit. Then remove the metal shielded housing case. There will be six screws that will not be able to be extracted. Nest test the voltage on the CPU PCB (located closest to the rear of the unit). The test points are located at the upper left edge of the board Use a Digital Multi Meter to perform the test. Unit needs to be on for testing. Disconnect the Computer Interface Cable at the back of the machine before test & adjustment.
3. The test points are located under the 4-RED & 1 Green LED's at the upper left corner of the board. There are 2 rows of GOLD PINS under the LED's. Use the first 2-pins of the second row of pins, starting on the left. The first pin is marked GND, and the pin to the right of it is marked +5V. Do not cross the test leads of the meter when connected to the test pins on the circuit board. Note: The machine must be powered on for this procedure. The voltage should be set at 5.00VDC to 5.03VDC. To tune the voltage have the power supply main cover needs to be off. When removing the fan cover do not pull to hard , the fan wire is still connected. Disconnect it and set it aside. THIS IS A HIGH VOLTAGE AREA. Do Not touch any wires or components unless specified. Locate the black box with a secondary fan on it. The adjustment Pot or Screw is on the left side of the Power Harness Connector down in front of the Power Supply. It will be between the plastic connector and the metal housing and mounted on the green circuit board. Use a small screwdriver similar to the one that is used to replace needles to make the voltage adjustment.
4. Turn the adjustment screw clockwise to adjust up to the required voltage (5.00VDC to 5.03VDC).
5. If there is little or no voltage showing on the Digital Volt Meter, it would be best to call your distributor for a replacement Power Supply. Double check your meter . Test it on another battery. When installing it, the unit needs to be off and removed from the frame. Disconnect the power harness. Look at the power switch area and remove the one screw and then locate the bottom of the power supply. Remove the additional two Alan screws.

THE KEYBOARD DISPLAY IS STILL BLANK:

1. If the Power Supply is replaced, and the Display is still blank, and the voltage test at the CPU reads correctly, replace the Keyboard PCB. Refer to the beginning of this guide to find the part number.
2. The Technical Manual has information explaining how to replace the Keyboard. Refer to section 5-8.
3. The Keyboard has been replaced, and the Display is still blank. Replace the CPU PCB. Remove and look for the assemble number on the PCB. Use this one to order The number will be eight digits long and have a dash line in front of the last two digits.
4. If the Display doesn't come on after replacing the Power Supply, Keyboard, or CPU Bd., call your distributor for a service call.

THE DISPLAY IS ON, BUT BY PRESSING ON THE KEYS NONE OF THE MENUS WILL CHANGE. THE ARROW KEYS WILL NOT RESPOND EITHER:

1. Try turning the machine off, and then on again.
2. If the Keyboard is still inoperable, use the information on the first three pages of this guide to try to determine the cause of the error.
3. Reconfigure the unit. To do this turn the unit off and press the three keys; ALT, Up Arrow and the Down Arrow. While holding the three keys down turn on the unit. Once the display shows the peripheral type press enter three times. When it comes up to memory clear press the Menu key. Make sure all the settings are correct along the way.

THE X-CARRIAGE MOVES ON IT'S OWN, BUT ONLY FORWARD OR ONLY BACK. THE OTHER POSSIBILITY IS THAT IT MOVES ONLY LEFT OR ONLY RIGHT:

1. Replace the Keyboard PCB, as one of the keys may be sticking.
2. Turn the unit off and check all wiring in the CPU area. Refer to the voltage adjustment procedure in the Technical Manual.

THE MACHINE WON'T STOP SEWING IF THE STOP KEY IS DEPRESSED OR FRAMES BACK ON IT'S OWN, AND WON'T STOP FRAMING BACK:

1. Turn the machine off and wait at least 15 seconds, and turn it on again. Use the Head Timing Menu to "Go to Head Up" when the machine powers up. Use the Power Fail Rescue Function in the HOME MENU to retain the design, and try to finish the design. If the machine still will not stop using the STOP Key or stop Framing Back, replace the Keyboard PCB. PN# 384903-01.

THE MACHINE STARTS SEWING ON IT'S OWN:

1. If this has happened more than once replace the Keyboard PCB, as the START Key is probably engaged when it shouldn't be. PN# 384309-01.
2. The PANTOGRAPH moves back and forth too fast or too slow. The X Carriage moves the hoop left & right too fast or too slow.
3. This is when the Arrow keys are used to move the PANTOGRAPH when the machine is not sewing so alignment of the hoop can be changed.
4. Depress the FAST/SLOW Key to reset the x-carriage jog speed so it moves slow or fast. This is not a fault of the Keyboard. It is a jog speed control for the x-carriage not a sewing speed control.

THE MACHINE DISPLAY FLASHES "EPBIOS" & "UNIT NUMBER", AND THE MACHINE WON'T COME ON LINE:

1. Check the EDS system in the computer to see if the machine is still enabled. If the machine is to come on line it must be enabled in EDS whether EDS2 or EDS3 is being used. If there is only one peripheral, enable a second one in peripheral menu to make sure EDS is scanning for peripherals. Use page 10-3 in the EDS2-manual, and page 11-2 in the EDS3-manual to find out how to enable the machine(s).
2. Reconfigure the unit. To do this turn the unit off and press the three keys; ALT, Up Arrow and the Down Arrow. While holding the three keys down turn on the unit. Once the display shows the peripheral type press enter three times. When it comes up to memory clear press the Menu key. Make sure all the settings are correct along the way.
3. Check the Interface Cable that connects the computer to the sewing peripheral for strong connection or if it is connected at all.
4. This cable may be damaged. The part numbers for the various lengths vary. Call your distributor/parts department for information.
5. If the machine still won't come on line, call your distributor. The CPU Bd. in the sewing peripheral may be at fault.
6. The other possibility is that if the EDS version the computer is using is EDS2, the Network PCB may be damaged. If the EDS3 software is being used, it may be improperly configured. COM 2 should be disabled in the software. This is usually done when EDS3 is loaded prior to operating EDS3.

THE X-CARRIAGE WON'T MOVE AT ALL WHEN SETTING HOME:

1. Test the Logic Voltage as explained on pages 1 & 2 of this guide first.
2. Reconfigure the unit. To do this turn the unit off and press the three keys; ALT, Up Arrow and the Down Arrow. While holding the three keys down turn on the unit. Once the display shows the peripheral type press enter three times. When it comes up to memory clear press the Menu key. Make sure all the settings are correct along the way.
3. The 24 volt source may be dead in the Power Supply. To test, use a Digital Volt Meter. Use test points P-1 & P2, (Top row of Gold Pins under LED's), on the CPU PCB. Refer to picture diagram.
4. If the voltage is not present or very low, replace the Power Supply (344379-01). See the Technical Manual for replacement instructions.
5. One or both of the motors could be damaged. Power the machine down, and remove the Electronics Cover. Refer to the Technical Manual to find this cover. There are 4 red LED's & 1 Green LED in the upper left corner of the CPU PCB. Push the X-carriage towards the back and front (Y AXIS) of the machine slowly, and observe the 2 middle red LED's of the 4 to see if they light at all. Try pushing the X Carriage (Hoop Holder - X AXIS) left & right slowly to see if the same 2 LED's light at all. If they do, the motors, and wiring should be undamaged.
6. If the either of the motors fail to light the 2 middle red LED's, call your distributor for more information to determine what parts are needed. A service call may be required.
7. It would also be a good idea to check the X & Y Axis Motor Wiring connections.
8. The same procedures as stated on page 6 are to be used when both or only one Axis (X or Y) is not moving.
9. Use the same procedures as mentioned to test the bad motor(s).

SELECTING A HOOP SIZE:

The machine errors when doing so.

1. If "Machine Running" or "Run Job Error" shows when trying to select a hoop size, push the MENU Key until "RESET MENU" shows. Push ENTER, and "System Reset" will show. Push ENTER again to reset the machine. Push the MENU Key until reaching the Design Menu, and set up the design again.

EITHER THE X OR Y AXIS OR BOTH WON'T MOVE:

1. Use the same instructions starting on this page, and on page #4 to troubleshoot this error.

THE PANTOGRAPH UNLOCKS MID-SEW OUT:

1. Check to see if the garment has caught on any part of the machine. This will cause a stoppage, as any hesitation/resistance in the X or Y Axis movements will cause the X Carriage to unlock . It is built into the software to do so, to protect the operator, and the machine from further harm or damage.
2. If the garment was caught in the chassis or there was a Bird's Nest of thread under the Needle Plate and has been removed. And the beam is still not moving Turn the machine off. Wait 15 seconds, and power it back up again. Try a POWER FAIL RESCUE to see if you can recover the design.
3. If the error continues, and there are no apparent reasons for the stoppage in the X-carriage movement, turn the machine off. Remove the Cover(s), and check the Y Motor wiring connections as shown in the Technical Manual . Check all wiring connections at the circuit board interface area. Check all wire connections for tightness, and also see if any are damaged.

DESIGN LOSES REGISTRATION MID-SEW OUT OR JUST SEWS ERRATICALLY:

1. Use all possible fixes listed on pages 6 & 7 of this guide. Especially try the Re-configuration in the Operator's Manual (PN# 110025-01), on pages 1-13 through 1-15 first.

X AND OR Y RACK NOT DONE:

This is the speed difference, mechanically or electronically, of the X or Y Axis that is not in accordance with that of the design information.

1. Reconfigure the unit. To do this turn the unit off and press the three keys; ALT, Up Arrow and the Down Arrow. While holding the three keys down turn on the unit. Once the display shows the peripheral type press enter three times. When it comes up to memory clear press the Menu key. Make sure all the settings are correct along the way.
2. Check all X & Y Motor wiring connections as suggested on page 8 of this guide. Make sure the X & Y axis move easily when the machine is powered off. If not check both Motors, and all pulleys for free movement. The X &Y Motor(s) are located under the rear covers close to the middle.
3. Test the Logic Voltage as suggested on pages 1 & 2 of this guide.
4. Replace the XYZ interface PCB, which is the front most PCB.
5. The next step would be to call your distributor for a service call.

RACK LIMIT ERROR:

The hoop has moved to close to either it's X or Y Axis limit.

1. Make sure the hoop size is selected in the Home Menu/Select Hoop Size before starting the design.
2. Make sure the Trace function is used to avoid this error.
3. Send over other designs that are smaller for testing.

THE NEEDLE CASE JUST TRIES TO DRIVE OFF OF THE SEWING HEAD AS IF IT DOESN'T READ ANY COLOR CHANGES:

1. Test the Logic Voltage (5.00 to 5.03VDC), according to the information listed on pages 1 &2 of this guide.
2. Make sure the black Color Change Cam under the Color Change PCB isn't loose on it's shaft.
3. Use the information on page 5-38 of the Technical Manual to see how to remove the Color Change PCB so the Color Change Cam is exposed. There shouldn't be any left & right movement of the cam at all. If there is, call your distributor to see how to properly position the cam.

Off Color Index Error:

The Needle Case is not positioned electronically & mechanically according to the Color Change PCB for the needle to pass through the Needle Plate Hole correctly.

1. If the Red Color Change LED on the front of the tension knob assemble cover is on, the Color Change Cam needs to be rotated slowly Clockwise or Counter- Clockwise to cause the red LED to go out. The screw slot to turn is located on the left most head facing the unit. On the right side of that head there is a hole in the thread holder assemble, right beside spool number one. Turn that screw very slowly until the light goes out. Next, push the MENU Key until the Head Timing Menu is reached. Push the ENTER Key. Push the ALT & UP ARROW at the same time, and the message should read "Go To Head Up".
2. If the error persists check the Color Change Cam to see if it is moving on it's shaft according to information on page 10 of this guide.
3. If the RED Color Change LED never goes out while rotating the Color Change Screw, replace the Color Change PCB.
4. If the error continues, call your distributor for more assistance or a service call.

CC TIME-OUT ERROR:

The Needle Case didn't move to the next needle in the Color Change Sequence in the allotted time (15 seconds).

1. If the RED Color Change LED is on, rotate the Color Change Cam screwdriver slot according to the information listed on page 10 (Off Color Index Section) of this guide.

CC-HEAD UP ERROR:

The needle bar wasn't in the full up position before the Color Change System tried to make a color change.

1. If the red Color Change LED is on, rotate the Color Change Cam screwdriver slot according to the information listed on page 10 (Off Color Index) of this guide.
2. When the LED is out, push the MENU key to go to the HEAD TIMING MENU, press the ENTER key, and press the ALT & UP ARROW to make sure the Needle Bar is at head up before continuing.
3. Try moving the needle case electronically, by pressing the ALT-Left arrow or ALT-Right arrow keys to move it left or right. Try going across from one needle to the next.

Z TIME OUT ERROR:

This error means that there is a stoppage of the Z Axis movement. Also, that the Take Up Lever stopped moving up & down, and the Needle bar has stopped moving up & down, and the Hook has stopped rotating. They are all part of the same movement.

1. Check the hook assemble area to see if there is any thread in or behind it. If so, remove it. When the thread is removed, use the Head Timing Menu. Press Enter once when reaching the menu, and press ALT & UP ARROW simultaneously to "Go To Head Up".
2. If the error continues, remove the Retaining Finger. Which is located in the front of the hook assemble. It is held in place by two silver flat head screws. Remove the Bobbin Case, and try to rotate the spindle on the inside of the hook assembly. It should rotate independently of the hook assembly if the hook isn't bound by thread or a broken needle tip. If the hook is bound, remove the hook from the sewing peripheral by loosening the three or two larger slotted (flat head) screws at the back of the hook assembly. If the inner basket of the hook won't rotate by trying to turn the spindle inside, remove the curved bar on the outside of the hook. It is held on by 3 very small slotted screws. Try to remove any thread or needle tip that may have been hidden by this bar. If the hook is still bound, replace the hook with a new one.

THE INNER BASKET ROTATES WHEN THE RETRAINING FINGER IS REMOVED, BUT THE Z TIME-OUT ERROR PERSISTS:.

1. Remove the needle from the needle bar that is currently indexed. Turn the peripheral off. There is more than likely a bind in the mechanical area. Remove the left most cover in the rear of the peripheral. Once the cover is off , a large pulley with a belt around it should be exposed. Turn the wheel manually and feel for any resistance.
2. If the pulley can't be rotated, remove the white cover on the face of the Needle Case. Loosen the screw to the silver needle bar clamp inside the needle case on the needle bar that is currently engaged. Try to move the Needle bar up and down. If it moves, try rotating the pulley at the back of the sewing head again. If it still won't move try oiling all of the sewing head oil ports. Let the oil soak in for an hour. Try rotating the pulley again. If it still won't rotate, call your distributor.
3. If the pulley rotates easily through 360 degrees, do so until all of the Take Up Levers are even. The engaged needle will be down.
4. Turn the peripheral back on. Press the Menu key . Go to the Head Timing Menu. Press ENTER. Press the ALT and UP ARROW simultaneously. The display should read "Go To Head Up". If it doesn't call your distributor.

THE TAKE UP LEVERS MOVE UP & DOWN, BUT THE NEEDLE BAR WON'T COME DOWN TO SEW:

1. Check the White Jump Stitch Lever behind the left side of the Needle Case. Make sure the lever isn't actuated as seen on page 2-9 of the Operator's Manual. If it is, push it to the right so that it isn't. It may be easier to see the position of the white lever when the Needle Case is on needle position 6.
2. If one or two needles will not come down, the rest will and not on all heads. One needs to look at the upper dead stop point and compare it to the rest. This can be adjusted by moving the black collar up and positioned to the same height as the rest. This collar is located behind the needle case cover. Where the silver rods and springs are located. Keep in mind that by loosing the silver collar, that the needle depth will become off.
3. If the engaged needle bar won't stay down when it is pulled down, call your distributor as the Reciprocator may be damaged. It is what drives the Needle Bars up and down when engaged.

NOT AT HEAD UP ERROR:

The Z Encoder has detected that Z Drive shaft isn't in position to be at Head Up. A Take UP Lever, Needle Bar or the Hook may not be in the correct position for this to happen. All three positions have to be correct for the Z Axis to be at the head up position.

1. Use the information in the Z Time Out section of this guide to try to determine the cause for the error

MISSED HEAD UP ERROR:

1. Use the Z Time Out Error information to try to detect the cause for this error.

THE SEWING QUALITY OF THE DESIGN IS JAGGED AROUND COLUMNS, AND SOME TIMES OBJECTS ARE MALFORMED. THE COLUMNS OR OBJECTS DON'T MEET THE FILLS OR OTHER OBJECTS IN THE DESIGN:

1. Check the hooping of the garment first. It may be too loose in the hoop. The material may be to elastic to hoop tightly, so make sure that there is enough backing being used. KK100 adhesive spray can keep the garment in place with the backing, and make it more stable.
2. Check all of the X & Y Axis belts to see if they are torn or breaking. If any of the belts are, call your distributor's Part's Department to replace the belt. Note: The Belt Tension Meter is needed to test the tension of the new belt(s). (PN# 992165-01).
3. The X or Y belt tension may be too loose. Call your distributor if this is suspected.
4. The X Carriage or Hoop Holder Assembly may have too much play in it's rollers. Remove the slide in Table Top, and look under the Black X-carriage Bar. Hold onto the corners of the X Carriage, and push towards the front, and back of the machine to see if there is any play in these directions.
5. Check the 2 Hoop Holder Pins on the X Carriage to see if either is loose in the plate they are mounted on. If either of them are, call your distributor as the X Carriage will have to be replaced. If either of the pins is bent to one side the X carriage will need to be replaced.
6. Check the metal hoop bracket on the hoop that is being used, as the slots that fit the pins may be worn. The bracket may be loosely mounted on the wooden part of the hoop. Try another hoop to verify a bad hoop bracket. Make sure the wooden part of the hoop isn't cracked either. Call your distributor for replacement hoops.
7. If the Full- Height Jacket -Back Hoop is being used, do not have the sewing speed set at 650 as this hoop flexes due to the weight of the hoop verses the Hoop Bracket, and the strength of the x-carriage. Sewing at a slower speed can make all of the difference. Sew with two hoops and then a three one to sew if the sewing quality will increase.
8. If the error is occurring while using the Cap Frame Hoop, check the wires mounted on the driver for tension. If the black bar on the driver is too loose it can cause distortion. The cables can be replaced if they are too long. Call your distributor for more information.
9. There may be damaged bearings in the x-carriage or Y drive assembly. The X or Y Motors could be damaged. Call your distributor for more information or a service call.
10. Make sure that the thread tension in between the Tensioners, and the Bobbin Case aren't too tight.

NO JUMP STITCH:

There are running stitches in between letters or objects in the design. The machine sews back to origin with running stitches at the end of a design, instead of one long stitch. The needle stays down at the end of a design. There is a crease down the center of large letters instead of a nice smooth column.

1. The Jump Stitch Solenoid and or the Color Change PCB are damaged. Turn the machine off. Remove the Saddle Bag Assembly to see the Color Change PCB. A Digital Volt Meter will be needed to test the resistance of the Jump Stitch Solenoid at the connector on the left side of the Color Change PCB.
2. The connector will have 2 white wires. Disconnect the connector, and test the across the 2 white wires. Disconnect the Solenoid. The meter should read 31 ohms if the solenoid is good. If it reads near 0, call your distributor to order a Jump Stitch Solenoid and a Color Change PCB. Refer to the PCB assemble number located on the board for ordering. It is recommended to swap both parts at the same time. The likely hood of them both being damaged by one another is great. By swapping out on Vs. the other the newer part can be damaged.
3. If the resistance tests at 31 ohms, call to replace just the Color Change PCB. To test the Jump Stitch, just sew a 5 inch Block- I. The vertical column should be smooth with no creases down the center of the column.

THREAD BREAKS:

1. Check the Needle Depth & Hook Timing first. See the Operator's Manual for information on how to check & adjust the two settings.
2. Replace the current needle(s) as the tips of them will flatten out after normal use. Sometimes there are burrs that form in the eye of the needle due to extended use. Try to replace them on a regular basis. Try once a week, if sewing eight hours a day.
3. If the cone of thread that is being used is old or has been sitting on the shelf for a long time it will be dry and brittle. If the cone must be used, try spraying it with a pure silicone spray. The thread may however still break. Replace the cone.
4. Check the threading of the cone(s) all of the way to the eye of the needle, and presser foot to make sure the thread is inside of all thread guides.
5. Check all thread guides for burrs or scratches. Use a piece of thread to rub around inside of the thread guides to see if it catches on anything such as a burr. Try using some emery cloth to smooth out burrs. If the burrs are too deep, replace the thread guide.
6. Check the Hook Assembly for burrs, and smooth it out if possible or replace it. Call your distributor for the part.
7. Check the Hook Support (Restraining Finger), for burrs. Try smoothing them out with emery paper. If burrs are too deep replace the part. Make sure it is positioned correctly. See pages of the Operator's Manual.
8. Make sure the hook assembly is clean of excess thread and fuzz.
9. Oil the hook every 3-4 actual hours of sewing. See pages of the Operator's Manual.
10. Check thread tensions to make sure they aren't too tight. If the tensioner wheel moves in a jerky movement, loosen the knob, and check the threading. Replace the felt pads under, and on top of the tensioner wheel(s).
11. Check the Presser Foot Height. The Bottom ring of the Presser Foot should be touching the cloth. If the Presser Foot is hitting too hard, check the rubber dampers inside the bottom of the Needle Case by removing the white cover. Replace the dampers if they are damaged. Call your distributor for parts.
12. Check the Needle Plate Hole for burrs on top, and underneath the hole.
13. Check the Needle Plate Hole centering. Make sure that the needle passes through the center the hole using a new needle.
14. Check the Take Up Lever that is engaged to see if by picking up and down on it, that it travels up and down more than 1/8 inch. If it does there may be some teeth missing off of the Take Up Lever Drive Gear or the individual Take Up Lever itself, or they may just be worn
15. The other possibility is that the two gears aren't meshing enough. If either of these errors are evident, call your distributor, as the meshing of the gears should be performed by a trained technician.
16. Needle breaks and Bird Nesting can cause the Hook Timing to be off. Check the Hook Timing. If it needs adjustment see pages 3-19 through 3-23 in the Operator's Manual.
17. Hitting a hoop may cause the Needle Depth to be incorrect. Make sure that 1/2 to 3/4 of the eye of the needle shows inside of the hook. It isn't recommended to use the Needle Gauge that was first supplied with the machine.
18. IMPORTANT: If sewing small lettering size .50 down to .25 in height, make sure the density isn't too high. The default in EDS is 4.2. This is 60 stitches per inch. At this density, there would be at least 3 needle strikes in the same hole in order to accommodate the 4.2 density.
19. If a design is dense in stitches the same error may happen. This happens especially if the operator has reduced a design in size.
20. If the design is an Expanded Design, the stitch density can't be reduced. See your EDS Manual for information about design density. Try slowing the sewing speed down to 500 or 550 to see if the design can be sewn. It may be a good idea anyway to slow the sewing speed down, due to the intricacy of the design.
21. The size of the eye of the needle can make a difference also. If the thread is breaking too often, try using a larger eyed needle.
22. For instance: If a 70/10 size needle is being used, switch to a 75/11 or 80/12 to accommodate the thread, and the density of the design.
23. Make sure thread tensions aren't too tight. Check the Front six tensioners, and the Bobbin Case. If the Bobbin Tension keeps varying, it can cause sewing quality and thread break problems. Replace the Bobbin Case. See the Parts Manual for the part number, and call your distributor for a replacement Bobbin Case.
24. Use adequate backing . An Inadequate amount of backing may allow part of the garment to be pulled down into the Needle Plate Hole, and cause a thread break. For instance: Don't use one piece of Tear Away backing to sew a Sweat Shirt. Use at least 2 pieces of Cut Away Backing so the cloth will be more stable.

FALSE THREAD BREAKS:

1. Check the threading of the tensioner. Check the Take up spring to see if it's broken. Call distributor if it persists.

LOOPING & BIRD NESTING:

1. Looping can be caused by thread tensions that are too loose. This can be caused by the Main Tensioners, and by the Bobbin Case. Looping can be on top or underneath the garment. Try turning the front six tensioner knobs 1 or 2 turns at a time to see if the problem will go away.
2. The looping may vary as are result of the knobs being too loose on the threaded tensioner post. If the knob moves too easily. remove the knob by unscrewing it. Spread the threaded post slightly with a large slotted screwdriver. This causes the threads of the post to better match the threads of the tensioner knob so they don't move so easily. If the problem persists, call your distributor.
3. If the Bobbin Tension changes too often, or won't tighten, replace it. Call your distributor to order one.
4. The density of the design may affect this error also. If the design density is too tight, the needle and thread will have a hard time fitting through the hole the needle has to make. See your EDS Manual for information on Design Density. The density when sewing lettering can affect this error.
5. If sewing small lettering, the 4.2 default is too high for lettering ranging from .50 down to .25 letter height. The 4.2 density is 60 stitches per inch. If using a Premier Keyboard for the controller, see pages 3-2 & 3-3 of the Premier Manual.
6. The size of the eye of the needle can affect this problem. If the density of the design is high or the cloth is to elastic, change up to a larger eyed needle. For instance: If the needle currently being used is a 70/10 size needle, switch to a 75/11 or even a 80/12 size needle. This larger eyed needle will allow for smoother passage of the thread through the eye of the needle. Most thread being used is 40 gauge. If 30 gauge thread is being used, a larger eyed needle is required. Try an 80/12 size needle. When Metallic thread is being used, at least a 80/12 size needle should. If your garment permits, it is recommended to use a 90/14 size needle.
7. Make sure the Hook Support (Restraining Finger) isn't to close to the back of the indentation in the Hook Assembly. There should be some space in between the front of the tab on the finger and the back of the indentation. Refer to the Operator's Manual for information about the placement.

CAP FRAME IN:

1. This error will show if trying to SET HOME with the Cap Frame Driver mounted on the machine.
2. If the Cap Frame driver isn't mounted on the machine, the Micro Switch in the Cap Frame Mounting Block is damaged. Replace it with (PN# 282911-01)

THE CAP FRAME IS POPPING OFF OF THE CAP FRAME DRIVER OR THE DESIGN IS BEING FLATTENED OUT NEAR AN EDGE OF THE CAP FRAME SEWING FIELD:

1. Make sure the Cap Frame Driver Shaft is pushed in so the metal ring touches the Black Mounting Block. Check the shaft by pulling on it to make sure it won't pull out during sewing. Don't over tighten the thumb screw under the Driver Shaft Mounting Block as the threads of the block can be stripped through over tightening.
2. From the surface of the back collar that touches the Driver Block to the end of the shaft should be 1 7/8 inches.
3. Loosen the set screw ,and match this measurement if incorrect. Use a drop of Red Loctite (Loctite 222) on the threads of the set screw.
4. The front surface of the front collar should be flush with the end of the shaft. If the collar settings are incorrect on either end, the sewing field "Mechanically", won't match the sewing field according to the limits set up by the software.
5. Check the cables attached to the Cap Frame Driver. They may be too loose. If the black bar on the driver can be picked up off of the arc of the driver, out of the groove it rides in, the cables can be too loose. There are two Cap Head Allen Screws at each end of the bar. Loosen only two at one end of the bar. Pull the block at the end of the bar towards the out side of the bar. Be careful not to bow the bar, as it would be too tight then. If the cables can't be tightened any further, replace the cables with (PN# 402913-01).
6. If the Driver seems to be in good shape, check the Needle Plate to see if the Cap Frame has been causing any wear marks on the edges.
7. If so, turn the machine off. Have only the Cap Frame Driver mounted on the x-carriage. Pull the black x-carriage bar forward until the front arc of the Cap Frame Driver is just over the back two edges of the Needle Plate. Center the driver in accordance with left & right. Check to see if the front arc of the driver touches either the left or right of the Needle Plate. If it does the Driver may be warped or the cables may be too loose. If there is another Driver present check it in the same manner. If it clears by at least 1/16 of an inch it is correct. Call your distributor if a warped Cap Frame Driver is suspected. There may also be a problem with the Cap Frame Driver Mounting Block. This will also require information from your distributor.
8. Make sure the Mounting Wheels on the Cap Frame Driver are not loose or damaged. Replace if damaged.
9. Check the Cap Frame for bends in it other than normal. Call your distributor to order parts for the Cap Frame or Cap Frame Driver.
10. Check the X Carriage on the x-carriage to see if it has too much play in the rollers. Use the information from the last paragraph in "Possible Causes/Solutions" on page 15 of this guide to adjust the play to where it is minimal.

TRIMMER NOT HOME:

1. If the trimmer not home error occurs during a trim. One needs to look up underneath the sewing unit where the power supply is located. One should locate a rod/shaft that goes length wise of the unit. Near the power supply side there is a switch. To identify it , the color of it is black and red. There will be two wires coming from it and have a little roller on a flat bracket. Take the shaft and move it to the left side of the unit. The switch should now be riding the black block assy. mounted to the shaft. Try now to do a trim immediate (located in the Trim Menu). If it works Refer to the operators manual under lubricating and greasing. Do this for the whole unit.
2. If continues to give this error. Called your distributor

GRABBER NOT HOME:

1. If the grabber not home appears after a trim route more than like the limit switch needs to be adjusted. This can be done by removing the top cover between head(s) two and three. One should locate the lever and identify the motor assy. Next is to locate the two limit switches. Which are red/black in color and have two wires per connected to them. The roller should be touching the metal plate which is screwed onto the round cam. Mark the position of the plate and them adjust it a little. After a every adjustment do a trim immediate. If the error goes away the plate is in the proper position. If not, return the plate to its original marked position and advance it backwards.
2.  

IMPROPER CUT:

1. Check the bobbin and main tensioner tensions. Sometimes it requires the tension to be loose or tightened. Try both ways.
2. Turn the unit off. Next remove all the needle plates and silver long throat plate. Lift up and set the metal shaft aside that engages in the pin located on the trimmer. The shaft is flat and goes from front to back of the unit. Next pull out the trimmer blade. Take a permanent marker (Dark in Color) and mark in the shine chrome area. Let it dry and push it in and back out. Do not force down on the blade when doing so. Pull the blade back out and observe the markings. Compare it to a good trimming head. Adjust the fixed blade a little at a time and repeat the marking of the blade.
3. If the markings appear similar to the ones on the other heads. Then, look at the silver clip located under the pivoting blade. Compare it to the other heads for verification.

SHORT TAIL VS. LONG:

1. If the tail lengths very from head to head after a trim. The first thing to do is check tensions. Compare the height of the knob and the pull of the thread or even the type of thread being used. Try and switch the trim command in the trim menu too short or long by pressing the left or right arrow key. Compare to the other sewing heads. The picker is located in the front of the hook assy. To adjust it, one needs to loosen the screw which is located on the right side in the pivoting joint. By looking into the hole one should see threads. Further in will be a very small Allen screw. The left side will have the rod going through it.

HELPFUL HINTS:

1. Since one has a four head unit one can easily swap parts around from one head to another. This sometimes will help narrow the problem down. The draw back is that one can take a chance of damaging another component.
2. The Multi Meter that is covered in above pages can be purchased at a electronic store/Radio Shack. Get fresh batteries and pin probe connectors. It's a good investment.
3. Purchase a line conditioner that is suitable for your environment and product. ARC carries several different models. Have a electrician monitor the A/C power and the grounding once a year.
4. When working with the unit additional supplies would be helpful as in markers, masking tape and paper cups. One can write the location where the part came from on the cup and then stick a piece of tape in the location of where it was. Place a white sheet on the floor, so when parts fall they can be easily found.
5. Maintain or update any spare parts or purchase a spare parts kit to help reduce any possible down time.

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