E M C   6 / 4   T r o u b l e   S h o o t i n g   G u i d e

To identify the type of machine, it has 4 black sewing heads with six needles each. The serial number will start with 897_ _ _ _.

THE MACHINE WON'T COME ON. THE DISPLAY IS BLANK:

1. Check the power source. Make sure it is a working outlet.
2. Make sure it's plugged in.
3. Check to see if the fan is on at the back left side of the machine. If not, again check the above two items.
4. Check the Keyboard Cable Connector under the Keyboard Cover for a strong connection. Check inside the Electronics Box to check the connection at the other end of the cable also. See page 1-10 in the Operator's Manual (PN# 000487-01).
5. Try adjusting the Intensity Adjustment at the right side of the Keyboard. The Keyboard Cover must be removed to see the Adjustment POT or Wheel on the PCB.
6. The 5 Volt Power Supply may be detuned or damaged.
7. If none of the above fixes the problem, it is best to test the Logic Voltage at the Interface Motor Driver PCB. This PCB lays flat in the bottom of the Electronics Box. The Box is at the left back end of the machine, in between heads #3 & #4. Remove the cover, and test the voltage at TP5 (VDC) & TP6 (GND).
8. The test points are located at the front edge of the board, as if standing at the rear of the machine. See doc. # . Use a Digital Multimeter to perform the test. Disconnect Computer Interface Cable before test & adjustment.
9. Remove the cover that the fan is connected to. The 5 volt Power Supply is a black box located on the right side of the Gray Box. See doc.# .To tune the voltage, the Adjustment Pot or Screw is on the left side of the Black Box, just on top of the Power Harness Connector.
10. Use a small screwdriver similar to the one that is used to replace needles to make the adjustment. Turn the adjustment screw clockwise to adjust up to the required voltage (5.00VDC to 5.03VDC). If the voltage is above 5.03VDC, adjust it down or counter-clockwise to this voltage range.
11. If there is little or no voltage showing on the Digital Multimeter, it would be best to call your distributor for a replacement Power Supply. The part number is: 344379-01.
12. If the Power Supply has been upgraded to the newer one, the part number is 005570-01, and is tuned in a similar fashion to the one mentioned above. It will be a Silver Box. The Pot or adjustment screw will be inside a square box near an LED, that is near the Power Harness Connector on the box. PRI for Power Supply ( ).

THE KEYBOARD DISPLAY IS STILL BLANK:

1. If the Power Supply is replaced, and the Display is still blank, and the voltage test at the CPU reads correctly, replace the Keyboard PCB. The part number is: 384309-01. The Technical Manual has information explaining how to replace the Keyboard. The part number for the manual is: 000332-01, page 5-10.
2. The Keyboard has been replaced, and the Display is still blank. Replace the CPU PCB. The part number is 000493-01. See the Technical Manual (PN# 000332-01) on pages 5-4 through 5-9 for replacement instructions. Note: When replacing the CPU PCB, the configuration procedure must be performed. See the Operator's Manual on pages 1-25 through 1-27. Operator's Manual (PN# 000487-01).
3. If the Display doesn't come on after replacing the Power Supply, Keyboard, or CPU Bd., call your distributor for a service call.

THE DISPLAY IS ON, BUT BY PRESSING ON THE KEYS, NONE OF THE MENUS WILL CHANGE. THE ARROW KEYS WON'T RESPOND EITHER:

1. Try turning the machine off, and then on again.
2. The pantograph moves when using the keys on the Keyboard, but only forward or only back. The other possibility is that it moves only left or only right.
3. If the Keyboard is still inoperable, use the information on the first two pages of this guide to try to determine the cause of the error.

THE MACHINE WON'T STOP SEWING IF THE STOP KEY IS DEPRESSED OR FRAMES BACK ON IT'S OWN, AND WON'T STOP FRAMING BACK:

1. Replace the Keyboard PCB, as the STOP key may be sticking. (PN# 384309-01). See page 5-10 for replacement instructions.
2. Check the START/STOP switch (Green & Red) in the middle of the table-tops to see if it is damaged (PN# 282753-15)

THE MACHINE STARTS SEWING ON IT'S OWN:

1. Turn the machine off and wait at least 15 seconds, and turn it on again. Use the Head Timing Menu to "Go to Head Up" when the machine powers up.
2. Use the Power Fail Rescue Function in the HOME MENU to retain the design, and try to finish the design. If the machine still won't stop using the STOP Key or stop Framing Back, replace the Keyboard PCB.
3. If this has happened more than once replace the Keyboard PCB, as the START Key is probably engaged when it shouldn't be. (PN# 384309-01), and possibly the START/STOP Switch at the center of the table-tops as it can cause this error also. (PN# 282753-15).
4. If the problem persists, call your distributor.

Z RUN-AWAY:

When the machine is powered up the Z Shaft just starts rotating at maximum speed, and the needles are moving up & down at the same speed when the START button wasn't even pushed to start a design yet.

1. Turn the machine off. Remove the covers in the back of the machine where the Electronics Box is, and check to see if the Z Encoder cable is still connected to the CPU PCB. See the Technical Manual on page 5-7 to see where it is supposed to be connected to Connector (J3709). If it is, follow the cable out of the Electronics Box, all of the way to the Z Encoder to see if the cable is damaged.
2. If the cable is damaged, call your distributor. Check the metal connector on the left side of the Electronics Box to see if it is connected well. It is connected to the Controller Interface that stands in front of the CPU PCB.
3. The Z Motor Controller PCB is one possible cause for this error. It is located in the Gray Box that houses the fan. (PN# 000573-01).
4. The Z Encoder can also cause the error. This part must be replaced by a factory trained technician. Call your distributor for a service call.

THE MACHINE DISPLAY FLASHES "EPBIOS" & "UNIT NUMBER", AND THE MACHINE WON'T COME ON LINE:

1. Check the EDS system in the computer to see if the machine is still enabled. If the machine is to come on line it must be enabled in EDS whether EDS2 or EDS3 is being used. If there is only one peripheral, enable a second one in peripheral menu to make sure EDS is scanning for peripherals. Use page 10-3 in the EDS2-manual, and page 11-2 in the EDS3-manual to find out how to enable the machine(s).
2. Check the configuration of the machine. Use the information in the Operator's Manual (PN# 000487-01). It begins on page 1-25 to re-configure the machine. If the machine type (EMC6/4) or the Unit Number is incorrect, the machine won't even request a download to come on line.
3. Check the Interface Cable that connects the computer to the sewing peripheral for strong connection or if it is connected at all. This cable may be damaged. The part numbers for the various lengths vary. Call your distributor for information.
4. If the machine still won't come on line, call your distributor. The CPU Bd. in the sewing peripheral may be at fault. The other possibility is that if the EDS version the computer is using is EDS2, the Network Bd. may be damaged. If the EDS3 software is being used, it may be improperly configured. COM 2 should be disabled in the software. This is usually done when EDS3 is loaded prior to operating EDS3.

THE PANTOGRAPH WON'T MOVE AT ALL WHEN SETTING HOME:

1. Test the Logic Voltage as explained on pages 1 & 2 of this guide first.
2. If the Logic Voltage tests correctly, try re-configuring the machine again using the Operator's Manual on pages 1-25 through 1-27. Manual Part Number: 000487-01. Re-configuring the machine is a very good way of resetting the machine for most errors that are out of the norm.
3. The 24 volt source may be dead in the Power Supply. To test, use a Digital Multi Meter. Use test points TP3-24A & TP4-24B, GND is still TP5 on the Motor Driver Interface PCB with the part number 000315-01, that lays flat in the bottom of the Electronics Box.
4. If the voltage is not present or very low; Call your distributor for help or a service call.
5. The Motor Driver Interface PCB (PN# 000315-01) can also cause the loss of pantograph movement.
6. One or both of the motors could be damaged. Power the machine down, and remove the Covers in between the back of heads #2 & #3. See page 1-10 in the Operator's Manual. to find these covers. There are 4 red LED's & 1 Green LED in the upper left corner of the CPU PCB.
7. Push the pantagraph towards the back and front (Y AXIS) of the machine slowly, and observe the 2 middle red LED's of the 4 to see if they light at all. Try pushing the X Carriage (Hoop Holder - X AXIS) left & right slowly to see if the same 2 LED's light at all. If they do, the motors, and wiring should be undamaged.
8. If the either of the motors fail to light the 2 middle red LED's, call your distributor for more information to determine what parts are needed. A service call may be required. The part numbers for the motors are (X & Y Motors) is (PN# 000465-01).
9. It would also be a good idea to check the X & Y Axis Motor Wiring connections.

SELECTING A HOOP SIZE, OR ATTEMPTING TO TRACE THE MACHINE ERRORS WHEN DOING SO:

1. If "Machine Running" or "Run Job Error" shows when trying to select a hoop size or trace, push the MENU Key until "RESET MENU" shows. Push ENTER, and "System Reset" will show. Push ENTER again to reset the machine. Push the MENU Key until reaching the Design Menu, and set up the design again.

EITHER THE X OR Y AXIS OR BOTH WON'T MOVE WHEN USING ARROW KEYS:

1. Use the same instructions starting on this page, and on page #6 to troubleshoot this error.

THE PANTOGRAPH UNLOCKS MID-SEWOUT:

1. Check to see if the garment has caught on any part of the machine. This will cause a stoppage, as any hesitation in the X or Y Axis movements will cause the Pantograph or X Carriage to unlock as if the motor is turned off. It is built into the software to do so to protect the operator, and the machine from further harm or damage.
2. If the garment(s) has gotten caught in the table tops or there is a Bird's Nest of thread under the Needle Plate, push the Stop button. If it won't stop sewing, turn the machine off. Wait 15 seconds, and power it back up again. Try a POWER FAIL RESCUE to see if you can recover the design.
3. If the error continues, and there are no apparent reasons for the stoppage in the pantograph movement, test the Logic Voltage as outlined on pages 1 & 2 of this guide. Test also the 24volt lines as outlined on page 4. There are 2 power supplies that affect the 2-24 volt lines.
4. Call your distributor for more information as to which one to replace if one of the readings is very low or non-existent.

DESIGN LOSES REGISTRATION MID-SEWOUT OR JUST SEWS ERRATICALLY:

1. Use all possible fixes listed on pages 6 & 7 of this guide. Especially try the Re-configuration in the Operator's Manual (PN# 000487-01), on pages 1-25 through 1-27.

X AND OR Y RACK NOT DONE:

This is the speed difference, mechanically or electronically, of the X or Y Axis that is not in accordance with that of the design information.

1. Try a Re-configuration as outlined on pages 1-25 through 1-27 in the Operator's Manual.
2. Make sure the X & Y axis move easily when the machine is powered off. Move the Black Pantograph Bar back & forward. Move the X Carriages (Hoop Holders) left & right). If either direction is stiff or halting, remove all table tops, and check for foreign objects in any of the three gray channels (pens, pencils, screwdrivers, chicken bones etc.) They can all stop the forward & backward movement of the black Pantograph bar.
3. Check the center support of the bar to see if anything might have gotten wrapped inside of the belt pulley in the center support. This will stop the left & right movement of the X Carriages (Hoop Holders).
4. Check the X & Y Motors for loose pulleys or belts. The motors are located in between heads 2 & 3. If either motor drive belts are loose, call your distributor for tensioning information. If either of the motor pulleys are loose on their shafts, make sure the belts ride in the center of the pulleys, and use Loctite 222 in the threads of the 2 set screws, and set to the flats on their shafts. If any belt in the X or Y Axis appears to be loose call your distributor for tensioning information or any replacement information.

RACK LIMIT ERROR:

The hoop has moved to close to either it's X or Y Axis limit. This is pertains to the electronic limit set by the hoop limits when a particular hoop is selected.

1. Make sure the hoop size is selected in the Home Menu before starting the design. If the hoop doesn't center when selecting a hoop or is off center, call your distributor for further information, as the X or Y Home Indicator may need to be reset.
2. Make sure the Trace function is used to avoid the Rack Limit error.
3. If the error happens well within the physical limits of the hoop. Check the hoop selection that was made in the Home menu, and make sure that the correct size was chosen.
4. If it still happens try a re-configuration outlined on pages 1-25 through 1-27 of the Operator's Manual. This will clear the run buffer of the machine. Try setting up the design again.
5. The CPU PCB (000493-01) may be damaged. Call your distributor for more information

THE NEEDLE CASES JUST TRY TO DRIVE OFF OF THE SEWING HEADS AS IF NOT READING ANY COLOR CHANGES:

1. Test the Logic Voltage (5.00 to 5.03VDC), according to the information listed on pages 1 &2 of this guide.
2. Replace the Color Change PCB (PN# 001316-01), as shown on pages 5-17 through 5-18 in the Technical Manual (PN# 000332-01). The Main Color Change Head is the last head on the left (HD.#4).
3. See page 1-19 through 1-21 on how to remove & re-install the Tensioner Assembly where the Color Change PCB is housed.

OFF COLOR INDEX ERROR:

The Needle Cases are not positioned electronically & mechanically according to the Color Change PCB for the needle to pass through the Needle Plate Hole correctly.

1. If the Red Color Change LED on the front of the Color Change PCB cover is on, the Color Change Cam needs to be rotated slowly Clock wise or Counter- Clockwise to cause the red LED to go out. The Needle Case is on color when the LED is out. See the Needle Case Removal section on page 6-12 in the Technical Manual to see where the Color Change Cam Shaft Screwdriver Slot is. Use this slot to rotate the shaft in the manner suggested above.
2. If the engaged Take Up Lever is lower than the other five, make sure the needle cases are moved back to that Take Up Lever. This is so the Take Up Lever Drive Gear can't skip any teeth on the engaged take up lever gear. When the red LED is out, push the MENU Key until the Head Timing Menu is reached. Push the ENTER Key. Push the ALT & UP ARROW at the same time, and the message should read "Go To Head Up".
3. If the error persists check the fourth needle case on the left to see if it can be moved left & right by hand when the machine is off. If it can be wiggled left & right about 1/8", the Color Change Cam may be loose on it's shaft. Check the Color Change Cam to see if it is moving on it's shaft Call your distributor to find out how to detect, and fix this possibility.
4. If the RED Color Change LED never goes out while rotating the Color Change Screw, replace the Color Change PCB (PN# 001316-01). If the error continues, call your distributor for more assistance or a service call.

CC TIMEOUT ERROR:

The Needle Cases didn't move to the next needle in the Color Change Sequence in the allotted time (15 seconds).

1. If the RED Color Change LED is on, rotate the Color Change Cam screwdriver slot according to the information listed on page 8 (Off Color Index Section) of this guide.

CC-HEAD UP ERROR:

The needle bar(s) weren't in the full up position before the Color Change System tried to make a color change.

1. Again, if the red Color Change LED is on, rotate the Color Change Cam screwdriver slot according to the information listed on page 8 (Off Color Index) of this guide.
2. When the LED is out, push the MENU key to go to the HEAD TIMING MENU, press the ENTER key, and press the ALT & UP ARROW to make sure the Needle Bars are at head up before continuing.
3. If the Z Axis won't "Go To Head Up", use the Z Time Out information in this guide to find what is stopping it form going to head up.

Z TIME OUT ERROR:

This error means that there is a stoppage of the Z Axis movement. This means that the Take Up Levers stopped moving up & down, and the Needle Bars has stopped moving up & down, and the Hooks have stopped rotating. They are all part of the same movement.

1. Check the hooks to see if there is any thread in or behind the Hook Assemblies. If so, remove it. When the thread is removed, use the Head Timing Menu. Press Enter once when reaching the menu, and press ALT & UP ARROW simultaneously to "Go To Head Up".
2. If the error continues, remove the Retaining Finger as seen on page 3-27 of the Operator's Manual (PN# 000487-01). Remove the Bobbin Case, and try to rotate the spindle on the inside of the hook assemblies. They should rotate independently of the hook assemblies if the hooks aren't bound by thread or a broken needle tip.
3. If the hooks are bound, remove the hook(s) from the sewing head(s) by loosening the 3 larger slotted (flat head) screws at the back of the hook assembly. See page 3-20 in the Operator's Manual to find the screws.
4. If the inner basket of the hook won't rotate by trying to turn the spindle inside, remove the curved bar on the outside of the hook. It is held on by 3 very small slotted screws. Try to remove any thread or needle tips that may have been hidden by this bar. If the hook is still bound, replace the hook with a new one (PN# 341992-05).
5. If the inner baskets rotate when the Restraining Fingers are removed, but the Z Time-Out Error persists. Re-install the restraining fingers in front of each hook. Turn the peripheral off. Remove the white cover that looks like it has a camel hump, at the left back end of the machine. There are 2 Phillips Screws holding the cover on at the back.
6. Rotate the large pulley clockwise to see if the Needle Bars can be raised and lowered easily.
7. If the pulley can't be rotated, remove the black covers on the face of the Needle Cases that have "Melco Industries". Loosen the screw to the silver needle bar clamp inside the needle case on the needle bars that are currently engaged. Try to move the Needle bars up and down. If they move, try rotating the pulley at the back of the sewing head again. If it still won't move try oiling all of the sewing head oil ports. Let the oil soak in for an hour. Try rotating the pulley again. If it still won't rotate, call your distributor.
8. If the pulley rotates easily through 360 degrees, do so until all of the Take Up Levers are even. The engaged needles will be down. Turn the peripheral back on. Press the Menu key . Go to the Head Timing Menu. Press ENTER. Press the ALT and UP ARROW simultaneously. The display should read "Go To Head Up". If it doesn't call your distributor.
9. Check the black tubes in between the sewing heads at the back of the machine to see if there is any thread wrapped around the main shaft. Look in between the end of each tube, and the back of each head. Sometimes thread is allowed to rest on these tubes if that spool isn't being used. This will act just like a brake, and cause the Z Time Out Error. Check the left back side of head #4 also (Last Head On The Left).

THE TAKE UP LEVERS MOVE UP & DOWN, BUT THE NEEDLE BAR(S) WON'T COME DOWN TO SEW:

1. Check the silver knob with the red dot on it behind the left side of the Needle case(s). Make sure the red dot is facing forward. If it isn't, rotate it so that it is. It may be easier to see the position of the red dot when the Needle Case is on needle position 6.
2. Refer to the Parts Replacement instruction (PN# ) to see how to check the adjustment of the Upper Dead Point Stops if the needle bars still won't come down to sew. If the stops are in the wrong position the needle bars won't come down to sew
3. If the engaged needle bar won't stay down when it is pulled down, call your distributor as the Reciprocator may be damaged. It is what drives the Needle Bars up and down when engaged.

NOT AT HEAD UP ERROR:

The Z Encoder has detected that Z Drive shaft isn't in position to be at Head Up. A Take UP Lever, Needle Bar or the Hook may not be in the correct position for this to happen. All three positions have to be correct for the Z Axis to be at the head up position.

1. Use the information in the Z Time Out section of this guide to try to determine the cause for the error.
2. Make sure the red Color Index LED is off on head #4 (Last Head On The Left), as the Needle Cases must be on index before the trying to rotate to the Head Up Position.
3. See page 6-12 of the Technical Manual to see how to rotate the Color Change Cam back on Color Index.
4. If the problem persists the Z Encoder may be damaged. Call your distributor for a service call.

MISSED HEAD UP ERROR:

1. Use the Z Time Out & Not At Head Up Error information to try to detect the cause for this error.

THE SEWING QUALITY OF THE DESIGN IS JAGGED AROUND COLUMNS, AND SOME TIMES OBJECTS ARE MALFORMED. THE COLUMNS OR OBJECTS DON'T MEET THE FILLS OR OTHER OBJECTS IN THE DESIGN:

1. Check the hooping of the garment first. It may be too loose in the hoop. The material may be too elastic to hoop tightly, so make sure that there is enough backing being used. KK100 adhesive spray can keep the garment in place with the backing, and make it more stable.
2. Check all of the X & Y Axis belts to see if they are torn or breaking. If any of the belts are, Call your distributor's Part's Department to replace the belt. Note: The Belt Tension Meter is needed to test the tension of new Y belt(s). (PN# 992165-01). The X or Y belt tension may be too loose. Drive pulleys could be loose Call your distributor if this is suspected.
3. The X Carriages or Hoop Holder Assemblies may have too much play in their rollers. Remove the slide in Table Tops, and look under the Black Pantograph Bar. Hold onto the 4 corners of the X Carriage, and push towards the front, and back of the machine to see if there is any play in these directions.
4. There are two X carriages. One is for head #1 & #2 on the right, and the other is for heads #3 & #4 on the left. Underneath them, on the left & right end of each carriage is an L shaped plate. If there is too much play in either end, loosen the 2 Allen screws, pull the thinner part towards the middle of the black bar, and tighten the 2 screws while holding the plate in place.
5. Check the 2 Hoop Holder Pins on each of the X Carriages to see if either is loose in the plate they are mounted on. If either of them are, call your distributor as the X Carriage will have to be replaced. If either of the pins is bent to one side the X carriage will need to be replaced.
6. Check the metal hoop brackets on the hoops that are being used, as the slots that fit the pins may be worn. The brackets may be loosely mounted on the wooden part of the hoop. Try another hoop to verify a bad hoop bracket. Make sure the wooden part of the hoop isn't cracked either. Call your distributor for replacement hoops.
7. If the Full- Height Jacket -Back Hoop is being used, don't have the sewing speed set at 650 as this hoop flexes due to the weight of the hoop verses the Hoop Bracket, and the strength of the pantograph. Sewing at a slower speed can make all of the difference.
8. If the error is occurring while using the Cap Frame Hoops, check the wires mounted on the drivers for tension. If the black bar on the drivers is too loose it can cause distortion. The cables can be replaced if they are too long. Call your distributor for more information.
9. There may be damaged bearings in the Pantograph or Y Carriages. The X or Y Motors could be damaged. Call your distributor for more information or a service call.
10. Make sure that the thread tension in between the Tensioners, and the Bobbin Case aren't too tight.

NO JUMP STITCH:

There are running stitches in between letters or objects in the design. The machine sews back to origin with running stitches at the end of a design, instead of one long stitch. The needle stays down at the end of a design. There is a crease down the center of large letters instead of a nice smooth column.

1. The Jump Stitch Solenoid and or the Color Change PCB are damaged. Turn the machine off. Remove the Tensioner Assembly, and Color Change Assembly to see the Color Change PCB.
2. A Digital Multimeter will be needed to test the resistance of the Jump Stitch Solenoid at the connector on the left side of the Color Change PCB. The connector will have 2 white wires, and black insulation around them.
3. Disconnect the connector, and test the across the 2 white wires.
4. The meter should read 31 ohms if the solenoid is good. If it reads near 0, call your distributor to order a Jump Stitch Solenoid (PN# 340484-31), and a Color Change PCB (PN# 001316-01) on head #4, and (PN# 001319-01) on heads 1-3 Order the solenoid with a black connector as this solenoid is used for several types of machines.
5. If the resistance tests at 31 ohms, call to replace just the Color Change PCB. To test the Jump Stitch, just sew a 5 inch Block- I. The vertical column should be smooth with no creases down the center of the column.

THE MACHINE SEWS 2 STITCHES AND COLOR CHANGES. THIS KEEPS HAPPENING FROM NEEDLE TO NEEDLE:

1. Refer to pages 1 & 2 concerning the testing & tuning of the Logic Voltage. It should be set at 5.00 to 5.03Volts DC. If the tuning isn't possible or the error persists, call your distributor to replace the Power Supply (PN# 344379-01)

THREAD BREAKS:

1. Check the Needle Depth & Hook Timing first. See the Operator's Manual on pages 3-11 through 3-25, for information on how to check & adjust the two settings.
2. Replace the current needle(s) as the tips of them will flatten out after normal use. Sometimes there are burrs that form in the eye of the needle due to extended use. Try to replace them on a regular basis. Try once a week , if sewing eight hours a day.
3. If the cone of thread that is being used is old or has been sitting on the shelf for a long time it will be dry and brittle. If the cone must be used, try spraying it with a pure silicone spray. The thread may however still break. Replace the cone.
4. Check the threading of the cone(s) all of the way to the eye of the needle, and presser foot to make sure the thread is inside of all thread guides.
5. Check all thread guides for burrs or scratches.
6. Use a piece of thread to rub around inside of the thread guides to see if it catches on anything such as a burr. Try using some emery cloth to smooth out burrs. If the burrs are too deep, replace the thread guide.
7. Check the Hook Assembly for burrs, and smooth it out if possible or replace it.
8. Check the Hook Support (Restraining Finger), for burrs. Try smoothing them out with emery paper. If burrs are too deep replace the part. Make sure it is positioned correctly. See pages 3-18 & 3-25 in the Operator's Manual.
9. Make sure the hook assembly is clean of excess thread and fuzz.
10. Oil the hook every 4 actual hours of sewing. See page 3-4 of the Operator's Manual.
11. Check thread tensions to make sure they aren't too tight. If the tensioner wheel moves in a jerky movement, loosen the knob, and check the threading. Replace the felt pads under, and on top of the tensioner wheel(s). (PN# 342003-61) once a year.
12. Check the Presser Foot Height. The Bottom ring of the Presser Foot should be touching the cloth. If the Presser Foot is hitting too hard, check the rubber dampers inside the bottom of the Needle case by removing the black covers that has MELCO INDUSTRIES stamped on it. Replace the dampers if they are damaged. Call your distributor for parts.
13. Check the Needle Plate Hole for burrs on top, and underneath the hole.
14. Check the Needle Plate Hole centering. Make sure that the needle passes through the center the hole using a new needle. If the needles don't center in the hole, call your distributor for more information.
15. Check the Take Up Lever that is engaged to see if by picking up and down on it, that it travels up and down more than 1/8 inch. If it does there may be some teeth missing off of the Take Up Lever Drive Gear or the individual Take Up Lever itself, or they may just be worn
16. The other possibility is that the two gears aren't meshing enough. If either of these errors are evident, call your distributor, as the meshing of the gears should be performed by a trained technician.
17. Needle breaks and Bird Nesting can cause the Hook Timing to be off. Check the Hook Timing. If it needs adjustment see pages 3-18 through 3-25 in the Operator's Manual.
18. Hitting a hoop may cause the Needle Depth to be incorrect. Make sure that 1/2 to 3/4 of the eye of the needle shows inside of the hook. It isn't recommended to use the Needle Gauge that was first supplied with the machine.
19. IMPORTANT: If sewing small lettering size .50 down to .25 in height, make sure the density isn't too high. The default in EDS is 4.2. This is 60 stitches per inch. At this density, there would be at least 3 needle strikes in the same hole in order to accommodate the 4.2 density.
20. If a design is dense in stitches the same error may happen. This happens especially if the operator has reduced a design in size.
21. If the design is an Expanded Design, the stitch density can't be reduced. See your EDS Manual for information about design density.
22. Try slowing the sewing speed down to 500 or 550 to see if the design can be sewn. It may be a good idea anyway to slow the sewing speed down, due to the intricacy of the design.
23. The size of the eye of the needle can make a difference also. If the thread is breaking too often, try using a larger eyed needle. For instance: If a 70/10 size needle is being used, switch to a 75/11 or 80/12 to accommodate the thread, and the density of the design.
24. Make sure thread tensions aren't too tight. Check the front six tensioners, and the Bobbin Case. If the Bobbin Tension keeps varying, it can cause sewing quality and thread break problems. Replace the Bobbin Case. Call your distributor for a replacement Bobbin Case or cases.
25. Use adequate backing . An Inadequate amount of backing may allow part of the garment to be pulled down into the Needle Plate Hole, and cause a thread break. For instance: Don't use one piece of Tear Away backing to sew a Sweat Shirt. Use at least 2 pieces of Cut Away Backing so the cloth will be more stable.

FALSE THREAD BREAKS:

1. Check the threading of the tensioner. Check the Take up spring to see if it's broken. Call distributor if it persists.

LOOPING & BIRD NESTING:

1. Looping can be caused by thread tensions that are too loose. This can be caused by the Main Tensioners (Front Six), and by the Bobbin Case. Looping can be on top or underneath the garment.
2. Try turning the front six tensioner knobs 1 or 2 turns clockwise at a time to see if the problem will go away.
3. The looping may vary as are result of the knobs being too loose on the threaded tensioner post. If the knob moves too easily. remove the knob by unscrewing it. Spread the threaded post slightly with a large slotted screwdriver.
4. This causes the threads of the post to better match the threads of the tensioner knob so they don't move so easily. If the problem persists, Call your distributor to replace them.
5. If the Bobbin Tension changes too often, or won't tighten, replace it. Call your distributor to order some.
6. The density of the design may affect this error also. If the design density is too tight, the needle and thread will have a hard time fitting through the hole the needle has to make. See your EDS Manual for information on Design Density. The density when sewing lettering can affect this error.
7. When sewing small lettering, the 4.2 default is too high for lettering ranging from .50 down to .25 letter height. The 4.2 density is 60 stitches per inch. If using a Premier Keyboard for the controller, see pages 3-2 & 3-3 of the Premier Manual.
8. The size of the eye of the needle can affect this problem. If the density of the design is high or the cloth is to elastic, change up to a larger eyed needle. For instance: If the needle currently being used is a 70/10 size needle, switch to a 75/11 or even a 80/12 size needle. This larger eyed needle will allow for smoother passage of the thread through the eye of the needle.
9. Most thread being used is 40 gauge. If 30 gauge thread is being used, a larger eyed needle is required. Try an 80/12 size needle. When Metallic thread is being used, at least a 80/12 size needle should. If your garment permits, it is recommended to use a 90/14 size needle.
10. Make sure the Hook Support (Restraining Finger) isn't to close to the back of the indentation in the Hook Assembly. There should be some space in between the front of the tab on the finger and the back of the indentation. See pages 3-21 & 3-25 of the Operator's Manual for information about the placement.

CAP FRAME IN:

1. This error will show if trying to SET HOME with the Cap Frame Driver mounted on the machine.
2. If the Cap Frame driver isn't mounted on the machine, the Micro Switch in the Cap Frame Mounting Block is damaged. Replace it with (PN# 282911-01)

THE CAP FRAME IS POPPING OFF OF THE CAP FRAME DRIVER OR THE DESIGN IS BEING FLATTENED OUT NEAR AN EDGE OF THE CAP FRAME SEWING FIELD:

1. Make sure the Cap Frame Driver Shaft is pushed in so the metal ring touches the Black Mounting Block. Check the shaft by pulling on it to make sure it won't pull out during sewing. Don't over tighten the thumb screw on the side of the Driver Shaft Mounting Block as the threads of the block can be stripped through over tightening.
2. From the surface of the back collar that touches the Driver Block to the end of the shaft should be 1 7/8 inches. Loosen the set screw ,and match this measurement if incorrect. Use a drop of Red Loctite (Loctite 222) on the threads of the set screw.
3. The front surface of the front collar should be flush with the end of the shaft. If the collar settings are incorrect on either end, the sewing field "Mechanically", won't match the sewing field according to the limits set up by the software.
4. Check the cables attached to the Cap Frame Driver. They may be too loose. If the black bar on the driver can be picked up off of the arc of the driver, out of the groove it rides in, the cables can be too loose. There are two Cap Head Allen Screws at each end of the bar.
5. Loosen only two at one end of the bar. Pull the block at the end of the bar towards the out side of the bar. Be careful not to bow the bar, as it would be too tight then. If the cables can't be tightened any further, replace the cables with (PN# 402913-01).
6. If the Driver seems to be in good shape, check the Needle Plate to see if the Cap Frame has been causing any wear marks on the edges. If so, turn the machine off. Have only the Cap Frame Driver mounted on the pantograph. Pull the black pantograph bar forward until the front arc of the Cap Frame Driver is just over the back two edges of the Needle Plate.
7. Center the driver in accordance with left & right. Check to see if the front arc of the driver touches either the left or right of the Needle Plate. If it does the Driver may be warped or the cables may be too loose. If there is another Driver present check it in the same manner. If it clears by at least 1/16 of an inch it is correct.
8. Call your distributor if a warped Cap Frame Driver is suspected. There may also be a problem with the Cap Frame Driver Mounting Block. This will also require information from your distributor.
9. Make sure the Mounting Wheels on the Cap Frame Driver are not loose or damaged. Replace if damaged.
10. Check the Cap Frame for bends in it other than normal. Call your distributor for parts concerning the Cap Frame(s) or Cap Frame Driver(s).
11. Check the X Carriage on the pantograph to see if it has too much play in the rollers. Use the information from the last paragraph in "Possible Causes/Solutions" on page 15 of this guide to adjust the play to where it is minimal.

Return to Top