E M C   1 0 / 4 M   &   1 0 / 4 T   T r o u b l e   S h o o t i n g   G u i d e

THE MACHINE WILL NOT POWER UP AND THE DISPLAY IS BLANK:

1. Check the power source. Make sure it is a working outlet.
2. Make sure it's plugged in.
3. Check to see if the fan is on at the right end of the machine. If not, again check the above two items.
4. Check the Power Harness Connector in front of the Power Supply for a strong connection. See the technical manual on pg.2-14 for location.
5. Remove the connector to check if a load is keeping the Power Supply from functioning.
6. Check the circuit breaker next to the power cord connector. See the technical manual on pg. 2-12.

THE DISPLAY IS BLANK AND THE FAN IS RUNNING:

1. Lift the Keyboard Cover to check to see if the Keyboard Ribbon Cable is connected to the bottom of the Keyboard PCB. Try adjusting the Intensity Adjustment at the right side of the Keyboard. The Keyboard Cover must be removed to see the Adjustment POT or Wheel on the PCB.
2. If none of the above fixes the problem, it is best to test the Logic Voltage at the CPU PCB under the back left cover opposite the Keyboard Cover. Remove the cover #4 (Controller Section), then remove the EMI Box cover to access the CPU PCB.
3. Test the voltage at TP12 (GND) & TP13 (+5vdc) on the CPU with part number 006550-01. The test points are located at the left upper edge of the board. Use a Digital Multi Meter to perform the test. Disconnect Computer Interface Cable before test & adjustment.
4. The voltage should fall between 5.00VDC to 5.03VDC.
5. If there is little or no voltage showing on the Digital Volt Meter, it would be best to call your distributor for a replacement Power Supply. The part number is: 005570-01. The Technical manual has the information explaining how to replace the part.
6. The part number for the manual is: 110168-01. See Pages: 3-25 and 3-26. If the Power Supply is replaced, and the Display is still blank, and the voltage test at the CPU reads correctly, replace the Keyboard PCB. The part number is: 384309-21.
7. The Technical Manual has information explaining how to replace the Keyboard on page 3-13.
8. The Keyboard has been replaced, and the Display is still blank. Replace the CPU PCB. The part number is 006550-01.
9. If the Display doesn't come on after replacing the Power Supply, Keyboard, or CPU Bd., call your distributor for a service call.

THE DISPLAY IS ON, BUT THE KEYBOARD DOES NOT RESPOND

1. Try turning the machine off, and then on again.
2. If the Keyboard is still inoperable, use the information on the first three pages of this guide to try to determine the cause of the error.

THE POWER SUPPLY IS FUNCTIONAL AND THE VOLTAGE READINGS ARE CORRECT BUT THE DISPLAY IS STILL BLANK:

1. First replace the KEYBOARD PCB P/N 384309-21, this PCB is 5v active. Refer to the Technical Manual page 3-10 for replacement instruction.
2. The next item that may be the problem is the CPU PCB. The CPU supplies the 5V and the information you see on the DISPLAY. The KEYBOARD PCB supplies the instructions to the CPU. P/N 006550-01 Refer to the Technical Manual page 3-6 for replacement instruction.
3. Call your distributor to order these parts or if replacing these parts did not make the Display function.

THE PANTOGRAPH MOVES BY ITSELF:

1. Replace the Keyboard PCB, as one of the keys may be sticking.

THE MACHINE WON'T STOP SEWING IF THE STOP KEY IS DEPRESSED OR FRAMES BACK ON IT'S OWN, AND WON'T STOP FRAMING BACK:

1. Power OFF the machine and wait 15 seconds then Power ON.
2. Use the Power Fail Rescue Function in the HOME MENU to retain the design, and try to finish the design.
3. If the machine still won't stop using the STOP Key or stop Framing Back, replace the Keyboard PCB.

THE MACHINE STARTS SEWING BY ITSELF:

1. If this has happened more than once replace the Keyboard PCB, as the START Key is probably engaged when it shouldn't be. Part # 384309-21

APPLICATION RUN ERROR:

1. The EMC 10 tried to Down Load the RSA Files and it was not able too. Power off/on the EMC 10 to retry the Down Load function.
2. If it still does not work then check the Data Cable coming from the computer for connectivity

THE PANTOGRAPH MOVES BACK AND FORTH TOO FAST OR TOO SLOW:

The X Carriage moves the hoop left & right too fast or too slow. This is when the Arrow keys are used to move the pantograph when the machine is not sewing so alignment of the hoop can be changed.

1. Depress the FAST/SLOW Key to reset the pantograph jog speed so it moves slow or fast. This is not a fault of the Keyboard. It is a jog speed control for the pantograph not a sewing speed control.

THE MACHINE DISPLAYS FLASHES "EPBIOS" & "UNIT NUMBER", AND THE MACHINE WON'T COME ON-LINE:

1. EDS II or III should be displayed on the Computer Screen.
2. WILCOM must send a design for the machine to come on line.
3. Check the EDS system in the computer to see if the machine is still configured.
4. If the machine is to come on line it must be enabled in EDS whether EDS2 or EDS3 is being used. If there is only one peripheral, enable a second one in peripheral menu to make sure EDS is scanning for peripherals
5. Refer to page 10-3 in the EDS2 manual and page 11-2 in the EDS3 manual, for instructions on how to use the Disable and Enable function.
6. Check the configuration of the machine. Use the information in the Operator's Manual (PN#110169-01). It begins on page 1-14 and 1-15 to re-configure the machine.
7. If the machine type (EMC10/4 & EMC10/4T) or the Unit Number is incorrect, the machine won't even request a download to come on line.
8. Check the Interface cable that connects the computer to the sewing peripheral for strong connection or if it is connected at all. This cable may be damaged. The part numbers for the various lengths vary. Call your distributor for information.
9. If the machine still won't come on line, call your distributor. The CPU Bd. in the sewing peripheral may be at fault. The other possibility is that if the EDS version the computer is using is EDS2, the Network Bd. may be damaged.
10. If the EDS3 software is being used, it may be improperly configured. COM 2 should be disabled in the software. This is usually done when EDS3 is loaded prior to operating EDS3.

THE PANTOGRAPH WILL NOT MOVE WHEN SETTING HOME:

1. Test the Logic Voltage as explained on pages 1 & 2 of this guide first.
2. If the Logic Voltage tests correctly, try configuring the machine again using the Operator's Manual on pages 1-14 through 1-15. Manual Part Number:110169-01. Re-configuring the machine is a very good way of resetting the machine for most errors that are out of the norm.
3. The 24 volt source may be dead in the Power Supply. To test, use a Digital Volt Meter. Refer to figure 1-1 on the following page to test the +24 volts at the Trimmer Interface PCB (part no.# 006422-01).
4. If the voltage is not present or very low, replace the Power Supply (004912-01) or possibly the Trimmer Interface PCB. See the Technical Manual on page 3-11 for replacement instructions.
5. If the Voltage is low, 18 volts or lower replace the Power Supply. The 4 Axis PCB may also be a cause for non-movement.
6. The X and Y motors may be damaged or inoperable. To check the motors removed the left rear cover and power off the EMC 10. Move the Pantograph back and forth and the carriage right and left to see if the middle red LED's will light up during the movement.
7. If the LED's light up, then the X and Y motors should be OK. If either of the motors fail to light up the LED's, then call your distributor to determine which part to order. P/N 005693-01 X-Axis, P/N 005693-01 Y-Axis.
8. Check all the X & Y motor cables and connector for connectivity.

SELECTING HOOP SIZES - ERRORS:

1. If "Machine Running" or "Run Job Error" shows when trying to select a hoop size, push the MENU Key until "RESET MENU" shows. Push ENTER, and "System Reset" will show. Push ENTER again to reset the machine.
2. Push the MENU Key until reaching the Design Menu, and set up the design again.

THE X OR Y AXIS OR BOTH WILL NOT MOVE WHEN TRYING TO SET HOME:

1. Use the same instructions starting on this page, and on page #6 to troubleshoot this error.

THE PANTOGRAPH UNLOCKS AT MID SEWOUT:

1. Check to see if the garment has caught on any part of the machine. This will cause a stoppage, as any hesitation in the X or Y Axis movements will cause the Pantograph or X Carriage to unlock as if the motor is turned off.
2. It is built into the software to do so to protect the operator, and the machine from further harm or damage.
3. If the garment has gotten caught in the chassis or there is a Bird's Nest of thread under the Needle Plate, push the Stop button.
4. If it won't stop sewing, turn the machine off. Wait 15 seconds, and power it back up again. Try a POWER FAIL RESCUE to see if you can recover the design.
5. If the error continues, and there are no apparent reasons for the stoppage in the pantograph movement, turn the machine off. The X and Y motors are located under the machine. Check the Y Motor wiring connections as seen in the Technical manual on page (6-18).
6. Check all wire connections for tightness, and also see if any are damaged. If the X or Y unlocks and will not lock in, check the wire connections at the X and Y amplifier boards (PN# 007671-01)

DESIGN LOOSES REGISTRATION OR SEWS ERRATICALLY:

1. Use all possible fixes listed on pages 6 & 7 of this guide. Especially try the Re-configuration in the Operator's Manual (PN# 110169-01), on pages 1-14 through 1-15.

RACK LIMIT ERROR:

1. Select the Correct hoop size in the Home Menu before starting the sew of the design, and trace the design before starting the sewout.

X AND Y RACK NOT DONE:

1. Oil the pantograph as shown on pages 5-11 and 5-12 in the Operators Guide, first if it hasn't been done yet.
2. Try a Re-configuration as outlined on pages 1-14 and 1-15 in the Operator's Manual.
3. Check all the X and Y Motor cables for damage and the connectors for proper connection. Refer to the Parts Manual P-67-72 for a illustrated description of these Harness Assembly.
4. Check the Logic 5V for proper setting. See pg. 1 and 2 of this guide.
5. If none of these suggestion correct the problem call your distributor for a service call.
6. The needle may be trying to enter the cloth before the X or Y motion is complete. It is caused by a combination of a dense fill stitch and sewing speed.
7. Try reducing the sewing speed to allow the needle time to clear the fabric and prevent broken needles and damaged fabric.

NEEDLE CASE TRIES TO DRIVE OFF THE SEWING HEAD, IGNORES COLOR CHANGES:

1. Test the Logic Voltage (5.00 to 5.03VDC), according to the information listed on pages 1 & 2 of this guide.
2. Make sure the metal Color Change Cam under the Color Change PCB isn't loose on it's shaft. Use the information on pages 3-52 through 3-54 of the Technical manual to see how to remove the Color Change PCB so the Color Change Cam is exposed.
3. There shouldn't be any left & right movement of the cam at all. If there is, call your distributor to see how to properly position the cam.
4. Replace the Color Change PCB as shown on pages 3-52 through 3-54 in the Technical Manual (PN# 110168-01).

OFF COLOR INDEX:

1. If the Red Color Change LED behind the tensioners is on (see pg. 2-19 in the Operators Guide), the Color Change Cam needs to be rotated slowly Clock wise or Counter- Clockwise to cause the red LED to go out.
2. The Needle case is on color when the LED is out. See the Needle Case Removal section on page 5-10 in the Technical Manual to see where the Color Change Cam Shaft Screwdriver Slot is. Use this slot to rotate the shaft in the manner suggested above.
3. When the red LED is out, push the MENU Key until the Head Timing Menu is reached. Push the ENTER Key. Push the ALT & UP ARROW at the same time, and the message should read "Go To Head Up".
4. If the error persists check the Color Change Cam to see if it is moving on it's shaft according to information on page 10 of this guide.
5. If the RED Color Change LED never goes out while rotating the Color Change Screw, replace the Color Change PCB (PN# 006514-01). If the error continues, call your distributor for more assistance or a service call.

CC TIME-OUT ERROR:

1. If the RED Color Change LED is on, rotate the Color Change Cam screwdriver slot according to the information listed on page 6 (Off Color Index Section) of this guide.
2. Refer to pg. 2-19 in the Operators Guide for more info on the CC Cam.

CC HEADUP ERROR:

1. Again, if the red Color Change LED is on, rotate the Color Change Cam screwdriver slot according to the information listed on page 6 (Off Color Index) of this guide
2. When the LED is out, push the MENU key to go to the HEAD TIMING MENU, press the ENTER key, and press the ALT & UP ARROW to make sure the Needle Bar is at head up before continuing.

Z TIME OUT ERROR:

1. Check the Hook Assemblies for threads, making sure that there are no threads in or behind the Hook. Remove the threads if any and then go to the Head Timing Menu and do a ALT Up Arrow function, Go To Head Up.
2. If the error is still present then remove the UTC/Retaining Finger and the Bobbin Case. Refer to the Technical Manual page 2-55 for a pictorial illustration of the UTC, the retaining tab is part of the UTC.
3. Loosen the right side mounting screw, but remove the left side mounting screw and swing the UTC to the right. Take a hold of the spindle's middle shaft, where the Bobbin Case is placed. It should spin freely inside the Hook Assembly.
4. If it doesn't then there could be either thread or a broken needle tip preventing the movement.
5. Upon inspection of the Hook Assembly you are unable to find any foreign object, remove the Hook Assembly by loosening the three set screws, do not remove them. Refer to the Operation Manual page 5-30, figure 32 and 33 for the location of the set screws. Inspect the Hook Assembly again for any object that may cause a bind.
6. To further assist in finding the cause of the bind remove the curved bar on the out side of the Hook Assembly which is held on by 3 very small slotted screws.
7. Remove any object that is not part of the assembly. If the bind is still keeping the spindle from moving freely then replace the Hook Assembly.
8. A bent needle bar or presser feet may also cause this error after hitting a hoop.
9. The lack of oiling the sewing head and hook will also generate this error.
10. If the UTC gets stuck in the hook, replace the UTC.

THE INNER BASKET (SPINDLE) ROTATES WHEN THE RETAINING FINGER IS REMOVED, BUT THE Z TIME OUT ERROR IS STILL PRESENT:

1. Power off the EMC 10 and remove the Z Drive cover, refer to the Parts Manual page P-1 item #2.
2. Once the cover is removed there will be a pulley with a timing belt around it.
3. Turn the pulley clockwise and make sure the Needle Bar can be lowered and raised without any difficulty.

NOT AT HEAD UP ERROR:

1. The information in the section about the Z Time Out Error on the previous page, will be useful to determine the cause of this error.

MISSED HEAD UP ERROR:

1. The information in the section about the Z Time Out Error on the previous page will be useful to determine the cause of this error.

THE TAKE UP LEVER MOVES UP AND DOWN, BUT THE NEEDLE BAR WON'T COME DOWN TO SEW:

1. Check the Jump Stitch Lever which is on the left side of the Needle Case. Make sure that the lever is not in the engaged position as seen in the Operation Manual page 2-13.
2. Another possible cause could be the Upper Dead Stop clamp which may not be adjusted correctly. Use the instruction in the Operation Manual pages 5-23 through 5-26, play particular attention to page 5-25 for information as to how to set the Top Dead Stop clamp. If the clamp is not in the right position the needle bar will not sew.
3. To test the Reciprocator pull the needle bar down and it should lock in the down position. If it doesn't then the Reciprocator is damaged, call your distributor.

THE SEWING QUALITY OF THE DESIGN IS JAGGED AROUND THE COLUMNS AND SOME TIME DESIGNS ARE DISTORTED. THE COLUMNS OR DESIGN DON'T MEET THE FILLS OR OTHER OBJECTS IN THE DESIGN:

1. Check the Hooping of the garment for loosen in the sewing area.
2. The material being used may have to much elasticity which may prevent a tight hooping. Make sure that enough backing and the proper backing is being used and apply KK 1000 adhesive to make sure that the garment stays in place on the backing for better sew quality.
3. Another important factor is to oil the Pantograph at intervals depending on the use of the machine. Refer to the Operation Manual page 5-11.
4. Check all the X and Y Axis belts for proper tension or damage. If damaged call your distributor to order the part. If the X and Y belts are to loose call your distributor there may be a need for some technical help to determine the cause of the looseness.
5. Other wise use the Belt Tension Meter (PN# 992165-01) to adjust to the correct tension. Refer to the Technical Manual pages 2-7 to 2-10 for instruction how to set the tensions.
6. The X Carriage Movement is vital to good sew quality results. Refer to the Technical Manual pages 2-11 and 2-12 for instructions how to test the X Carriage Assembly for proper movement. Instructions on how to adjust the Carriage Assembly are also found in these two pages.
7. Check the Hoop Holder Actuator and Pins for damage or looseness. If they are loose, call your distributor the Pantograph may need to be replaced. Any damage to this area will cause bad sew quality.
8. Check the metal part of the hoop for damage to the Pin Slots, they may be too worn or too large for the Pins causing them to be loose. Also the wooden part of the hoop should not be cracked or damaged. Call your distributor for replacement hoops.
9. If the Full Height Jacket Back Hoop is used sew below 650 SPM. A slow speed will help the sew quality. Also this hoop flexes due to the weight of the hoop versus the Hoop Bracket and the strength of the Pantograph.
10. If the error is occurring while using the Cap Frame Hoop then check the Cap Frame Driver's, Drive Ring Cable and Bracket also the Guide Bar for straightness and proper installation. If the cable can no longer be adjusted, call your distributor to order the cable.
11. As a practice do a sample sew of the design when at all possible, it will help with sew quality. This test is also good to adjust Tension from the Tensioners all the way to the Bobbin Thread.
12. The poor sew quality may also be due to the X and Y Motor's starting to fail or the bearings may be to worn. Again call your distributor for assistance or a service call.

NO JUMP STITCH:

1. Two possible causes could be the Jump Stitch Solenoid on Heads #1 #4 and #3 or the Color Change PCB on Head #4. One or both could be non-functional.
2. Turn the power off to the machine. Remove the color change covers, refer to the Technical Manual page 3-53 for a illustrated view of the covers. There are two ways to test the Jump Stitch Solenoid. First sew a 5 inch Block I.
3. The vertical column should be smooth with no crease down the center of the I. If there is a crease down the center then the Solenoid should be ordered.
4. The second way is to disconnect the connector that has two white wires, located on the left side of the Color Change PCB. Insert the Digital Voltmeter probes into each side of the connector and set the voltmeter to Ohms, the reading must be 31 Ohms,
5. If not 31 ohms call your distributor to order the Jump Stitch Solenoid and Color Change PCB.
6. If the reading is 31 Ohms, then replace only the Color Change PCB.

THREAD BREAKS:

1. Needle Depth and Hook Timing should be checked first. Refer to Operation Manual starting at page 5-23 to page 5-30 for instructions and specific settings to use.
2. Replace the needles if they have not been change recently. Constant use will dull the needle tips and needle eyes have been known to form burrs. It is good practice to change them on a regular basis.
3. The thread may also be a cause of thread breaks. If the thread is to old due to Shelf Life it could be dry or brittle which would cause thread breaks. If you must use the thread try spraying the cone with a pure silicone spray to help remove the dry and brittleness of the thread cone. The operator must make the choice to change the thread cone if the breaks continue.
4. Check the Thread Path for proper threading. Refer to the Operation Manual starting at page 2-4 for instructions on how to thread the machine.
5. Check all thread guides for burrs or scratches. Take a piece of thread and insert the thread into each thread guide and use the dental floss method to check for burrs.
6. If some are found try using emery cloth to smooth them out. If the burrs are to deep to smooth out then change the guide.
7. Check the Hook Assembly for burrs which could cause a thread break. If possible smooth them out or replace the Hook Assembly.
8. A part of checking the hook is making sure it is set right, check Hook Timing, refer to the Operation Manual page 5-28.
9. Check the UTC Retaining Finger for damage and proper, setting refer to the Operation Manual page 5-33 for instructions.
10. Inspect the Hook Assembly for cleanliness and oil the Hook Assembly every 4 operating hours. Refer to Operation Manual page 5-4.
11. High Thread Tension can be a cause for thread breaks. Observer the Tensioner Thread Wheel for uneven motion while the thread is being pulled through the wheel. This would indicate that the tension is to high. Check the Felt Pads that are on the top and bottom of the wheel for oil and wear. Replace as needed.
12. Check the Presser Foot height, the bottom of the Presser Foot should not be hitting the needle plate while sewing. The height of the Presser Foot is determined by the Needle Case Damper, a Shim and a Felt Pad. Refer to the Technical Manual page 3-44 figure 3-30 for a illustrated view of these parts. If one or any of these three part are missing, they can be ordered through your distributor.
13. Check the Needle Plate hole for burrs both on the top and underside. Make sure the needle is not hitting any part of the Needle plate.
14. Check the Take Up Lever for excess movement. Take the Pick Up Lever that is engaged and try to move it up and down, if it moves 1/8 of an inch, there may be teeth missing off of the Take Up Lever Drive Gear, or the individual take up lever itself, or they may just be worn. The meshing of these two gears is another possible cause. If either wear or not meshing of the gears is detected call your distributor.
15. Incorrect Needle Depth and Hook Timing can cause thread breaks. Hitting a Hoop or getting Bird Nesting or even breaking a needle could change the Needle Depth and Hook Timing so make sure they are correct.
16. The design may be a cause due to the density. This may happen on small letters in sizes .50 inch down to .25 inch. The default setting in EDS is 4.2 which is 60 stitches per inch. This density will produce 3 needle strikes in the same needle hole which can cause thread breaks.
17. Even a large design if it is to dense in stitch count could be a problem. The most apparent is the reduction of a design by the operator.
18. If an Expanded Design is used, the stitch density can not be reduced. Refer to your EDS Manual for information about Design Density. Sew the design at a slower speed trying 500 to 550 SPM.
19. The eye size of the needle can make a difference. If the thread is breaking to often try using a larger eyed needle.
20. If a 70/10 size needle is being used, switch to a 75/11 or 80/12 to allow for the thread thickness and the density of the design.
21. Make sure the thread is correctly threaded, refer to the Operation Manual page 2-4 for instruction. Check the thread tension it may be to tight. Refer to the Operation Manual page 2-7 for instruction on how to adjust the bobbin and the upper Tensioners.
22. If bobbin tension keep changing after setting change the bobbin case, it could be a cause for poor sew quality and thread breaks.
23. Use adequate backing. An inadequate amount of backing may allow part of the garment to be pulled down into the needle plate hole, thus causing a threads break. One piece of Tear Away backing may not be good enough for a sweat shirt.
24. The purpose of backing is the help support and stabilize the material during the sew.

FALSE THREAD BREAKS:

1. Make sure that the Thread Break Take Up Spring is away from the Thread Break Post during the sew. This spring is located on the left side of the Tensioner.
2. Check the Thread Break Brush for proper adjustment. Refer to the Technical Manual page 2-29 for instruction on how to adjust the brush. Refer to the Technical Manual page 3-42 for instructions on how to replace the Thread Break Wiper Brush.
3. Make sure that the bristles are pointing straight up and not touching the base of the post on the Thread Break PCB Assembly.
4. Insure the tensioners are threaded correctly.

LOOPING & BIRD NESTING:

1. Looping can be caused by thread tensions that are to loose and it can happen on the top or bottom of the design. Both the Bobbin and the Tensioners could be the cause.
2. Check to see if the problem is the Tensioners by turning the Tensioner Knobs two (2) turns to the right to (Tighten) and see if it corrects the looping. Don't forget to check the bobbin for proper tension.
3. Check the Black Tensioner Knobs for looseness on the Tensioner Post, The Tensioner Post is threaded and has a machined out slot in the middle of the shaft. If the knob is loose, remove the knob insert the flat blade of a screw driver into the slot and spread it slightly, then install the knob again and check for the tightness of the knob.
4. The density of the design may have an affect on both of these problems. If the design density is to tight the needle may have a hard time penetrating the material and the thread may be pulled from the needle due to the tightness.
5. Refer to your EDS Manual for information on Design Density. The density of small alphabet letters may be a cause also.
6. If sewing small letters the 4.2 default density is to high for letters ranging from .50 inch or smaller. If using a Premier Keyboard for the controller, refer to pages 3-2 and 3-3 of the Premier Manual.
7. The needle eye size can have an effect on both of these problems. If the density of a design is to high or the cloth is to elastic, change up to a larger eyed needle.
8. For instance: If the needle currently being used is a 70/10 size needle, switch to a 75/11 or even a 80/12 size needle. This larger eyed needle will allow for smoother passage of the thread through the eye of the needle.
9. Most thread being used is 40 gauge. If 30 gauge thread is being used a larger eyed needle is required, example 80/12 would be a size to start with. If Metallic thread is being used at least a 80/12 size needle should be used but if your garment permits, it is recommended to use a 90/14 size needle.
10. Make sure that the Retaining Finger of the UTC Assembly is properly positioned in the Inner Basket Indentation. Refer to the Operation Manual page 5-31 figure 34 for an illustrated view.

CAP FRAME IN:

1. This error will appear on the display if trying to set home with the Cap Frame Driver installed.
2. If the Cap Frame Driver is not installed, then the Micro Switch that indicate the driver is installed is defective.

THE CAP FRAME IS POPPING OFF OF THE CAP FRAM DRIVER OR THE DESIGN IS BEING FLATTENED OUT NEAR AN EDGE OF THE CAP FRAME SEWING FIELD:

1. Make sure that the Cap Frame Driver shaft is pushed in so that the metal collar is flush against the Rear Cap Frame Bracket and the Dove Tail Mount is properly installed in the Dove Tail Bracket.
2. Make sure that the thumb screw is tighten and the shaft will not move back or forth. Refer to the Operation Manual pages 2-23 and 2-24 for instructions.
3. Check the cables attached to the Cap Frame Driver for looseness. If the Drive Bracket can be pulled out of it's grooves then the cables are loose.
4. If the cables are loose they can be adjusted by loosening the two socket head cap screw that are located at each end of the Driver Bracket.
5. Loosen one side only and push the Cable Bracket out till the cables are tight.
6. If the cables are tightened too much they may bow the Driver Bracket. If the cables have stretched to the point that after adjusting both Cable Bracket the looseness can not be taken out then replace the cables.
7. The needle plate can also cause the Cap Frame to pop off. Check the needle plate for wear marks and nicks along the front and side edges that may have been cause by the Cap Frame.
8. If there is evidence then power off the machine and leave only the Cap Frame Driver installed in the Pantograph. Pull the Pantograph forward so that the front arc of the Cap Frame Driver is over the side edges of the Needle Plate.
9. Center the driver and turn it left and right to see if the front arc of the driver touches either side of the Needle Plate. If it does the Driver may be warped or the cables may be too loose. The Driver must clear the Needle plate by at least 1/16 of an inch to be correct. Check the Rear Cap Frame Bracket for looseness or any thing in that area that may cause the Cap Frame to pop out.
10. Check the Cap Frame Driver Roll Clips for wear, damage or looseness, replace as needed.
11. Check the Cap Frame for damaged parts and the proper arc of the Weldment Frame. The Weldment Frame has a piece of metal that is used as support at the front and underneath the frame. This part can cause the Cap Frame to pop off if it hits the Needle Plate.
12. Check the X-Axis carriage for play in the X-Carriage Rollers or loose Hoop Holder pins. Refer to the Technical Manual page 3-26 # 3 and # 4 how to adjust the X-Carriage Rollers.

TRIMMER INACTIVE:

1. This error means you tried to perform a trim immediate with the trim function disabled. Enable the trim function in the trim menu, then proceed.

TRIMMERS NOT TRIMMING PROPERLY:

1. When having trimmer quality problems, there are three general errors that may be contributing to the problem: A.) The physical condition of the trimmer parts, B.) The moveable knifes home position, and C.)
2. The moveable knifes select position. Refer to pages 2-45 through 2-47 and 2-50 through 2-56 in the emc10/4 technical manual (part no.# 110186-01).

TRIMMER NOT HOME:

1. This error means the machine cannot sew after a trim because the blade did not return to its home position. Execute Go To Headup in the Head Timing Menu, then press (Start).
2. If the error reoccurs, call your representative. Refer to pg. 3-66 in the Technical Manual for information on checking the Under Thread Presser. A reason for not trimming is improper setting of the jump count in the trim menu.
3. If the jump count is set lower than 0 or higher than 12, m/c will not trim. Refer to the following chart for voltage information.

RED LED'S ON RIGHT SIDE OF THE ELECTRONICS BOX:

1. On = 24vdc - Nutec, Silver PSU, Jump Stitch, Color Change
2. On = 24vdc - Lg. PSU, Joule, Trimmer System
3. On = 5vdc - Nutec
4. On = X Home PCB.
5. On = Y Home PCB. Note: This LED is not on at all times. When sewing the LED is mostly off.
6. On = X Limits
7. On = Y Limits
8. On = Head 4
9. On = Head 3
10. On = Head 2
11. On = Head 1
12. Note: The LED's for Heads 1 thru 4 are on when in the Home position.

GRABBER NOT HOME:

1. As mentioned in the first part of the Trimmer Section, if the top thread wasn't cut, the grabber blade can't retract to it's home position. The thread has to be cut to do so. if the thread isn't cut, use the trimmer section of this guide to try to determine the reason why it didn't.
2. If the actuator screw that is supposed to enable the Home Position Switch isn't touching the switch arm, and the blade appears to be in the fully retracted position, then the actuator screw may need to be adjusted so it does touch the switch arm with enough pressure to do so.
3. To find the switch, remove the upside down triangular cover at the back left side of the sewing head by removing the 2 screws to the cover to be able to see the Grabber Motor Assembly.
4. If it is still unclear as to how to adjust the actuator screw, call your distributor for more information. The Grabber Blade may be out too far at a trim or in too far. This will not necessarily cause a Grabber Not Home Error, but it may stop it from picking up the thread after a trim.

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