E M C   1 0   &   1 0 T   T r o u b l e   S h o o t i n g   G u i d e

THE EMC 10 WILL NOT POWER UP, THE DISPLAY IS BLANK:

1. Check the power source at the wall outlet.
2. Check the connectivity of the power cord.
3. Check the function of the Power Supply fan, if there is no motion then check the fuse that are located behind the Power Supply off/on switch.
4. Check the Power Harness Connector and make sure that it is connected to the connector block of the Power Supply.
5. The connector can be removed to check if a load is keeping the Power Supply from functioning.
6. If the fuses are good and the fan is not functional then order a Power Supply from your distributor.

THE EMC 10 DISPLAY IS BLANK, THE FAN IS FUNCTIONAL:

1. With power still on the machine, lift the display and check the ribbon cable to the Keyboard PCB for proper connection, try adjusting the Intensity Adjustment Potentiometer which is located at the right side of the Keyboard PCB.
2. This adjustment can also be use to make the LCD DISPLAY more visible by increasing the intensity. Refer to the Technical Manual.
3. Next check the 5 Volt supply on the 4 Axis PCB that is located on the left side of the EMC 10. Removing the cover, will expose the 4 Axis PCB.
4. NOTE: Do not cross the test leads. Disconnect the computer interface Cable.
5. Power the machine off, disconnect the power cord from the wall, and reseat the Power Harness connector at the base of the Power Supply under the machine's Keyboard.
6. With the machine powered off still, blow the dust out of the Power Supply using Canned Air or an air compressor.
7. Set the Digital Voltmeter to the lowest setting, preferably the 20 volts range.
8. Put the leads in Test Point, TP 4 (GND) and TP 3 (+5v). These test points are located on the 4 Axis Driver PCB. Refer to the Technical Manual (Power Supply- 5volt setting).
9. The voltage at this point should be 5.03v to 5.05v. If the voltage is lower then 5.0v then adjust the voltage at the 5V ADJ. Potentiometer which is located next to the Power Supply connector block and red LED. Refer to the Technical Manual Contents -"Power Supply (5 Volt Setting)". Note: If there is dust in the Power Supply; use an air compressor or canned air to blow dust out with the power supply powered OFF. Try reseating the long power harness connector at the base of the power supply after removing Keyboard Cover. Test the 5 volt setting once again.
10. If turning the ADJ. Potentiometer and it still does not change the voltage, and the Power Supply fan is not functioning then call your distributor for a Power Supply replacement. P/N 005570-01 Refer to the Technical Manual for replacement instructions.

THE POWER SUPPLY IS FUNCTIONAL AND THE VOLTAGE READINGS ARE CORRECT BUT THE DISPLAY IS STILL BLANK:

1. Try adjusting the Display intensity at the edge of the Keyboard to see if it will show. Use the information in the Technical Manual to see how to make the adjustment. Next, replace the KEYBOARD PCB, this PCB is 5v active. Refer to the Technical Manual for replacement instructions. Check Parts Manual for part number, and call your distributor for the part.
2. The next item that may be the problem is the CPU PCB. The CPU supplies the 5V and the information you see on the DISPLAY. Try reseating the CPU PCB with the machine powered OFF. The KEYBOARD PCB supplies the instructions to the CPU Refer to the Technical Manual for replacement instructions. Check the Parts Manual for part number, and order from your distributor.
3. Call your distributor to order these parts or if replacing these parts did not make the Display function, call your distributor for a service call.

THE DISPLAY IS ON BUT THE TOUCH KEYS DO NOT RESPOND:

1. Try turning the machine off, then on.
2. If the Display is still not functioning , test the 5 volt setting outlined in the first 2 sections of this guide.
3. Reseat the CPU PCB & 4 Axis PCB with the machine powered off. Use the replacement instructions outlined in the Technical Manual to perform this operation.
4. Replace the Keyboard PCB, using the previous information.
5. If still a problem, call your distributor.

THE PANTOGRAPH MOVES IN ONE DIRECTION ONLY, EITHER IN THE X OR Y AXIS:

1. Check all wiring to the X & Y Motors. The Y Motor is under the Keyboard, and the X Motor is under the small black cover at the left end of the Black Pantograph Bar.
2. Test the 5 volt setting as outlined in the first 2 sections of this guide.
3. The next possibility is the 4 Axis PCB. Reseat the PCB first using the CPU/4Axis PCB replacement information in the Tech Manual.
4. If the problem still exists, call your distributor for the 4 Axis PCB
5. If the X Axis (Left & Right movement of X Carriage) doesn't work still, the X Motor may need to be replaced.
6. If the Y Axis (Forward & Back movement of X Beam) doesn't move in one direction or the other, the Y Motor may need to be replaced. Call your distributor for the part.
7. There could also be a sticking key on the Keyboard. Call your distributor for the part.
8. If the problem persists, call your distributor for a service call.

THE EMC 10 WILL NOT STOP SEWING AFTER DEPRESSING THE STOP KEY OR FRAMES BACK ON IT'S OWN WITHOUT STOPPING:

1. Power OFF the machine and wait 15 seconds then Power ON.
2. Use the Head Timing Menu to "Go to Head Up". Use the Power Fail Rescue to retrieve the design and finish sewing the design.
3. If the machine still doesn't respond using the Stop Key, replace the Keyboard PCB. Call your distributor to order the part.

THE EMC 10 STARTS SEWING WITHOUT DEPRESSING THE START KEY:

1. The Start Key is probably malfunctioning, replace the Keyboard PCB. Call your distributor for help.

THE PANTOGRAPH AND CARRIAGE MOVE IN THEIR RESPECTIVE AXIS TO FAST OR TO SLOW WHILE DEPRESSING THE ARROW KEYS DURING HOOP ALIGNMENT:

1. Using the FAST/SLOW Key reset the jog speed as desired. This is a normal function, refer to the Operation Manual. On "CE" machines it is the Tortoise/Hare Key. Press the key, and try the Arrow Buttons. If the speed is wrong (too fast or too slow), press the key again to get the desired speed. There are only two speeds.

THE DISPLAY IS FLASHING EPBIOS UNIT NUMBER AND THE EMC 10 WILL NOT COME ON LINE:

1. EDS II or III has to be booted at the computer for the machine to come on line.
2. Must send a design for the machine to come on line.
3. Enable a second machine to make sure EDS is scanning for peripherals.
4. Refer to page 10-3 in the EDS2 manual and page 11-2 in the EDS3 manual, for instructions on how to use the Disable and Enable function.
5. Reconfiguring the machine is a good practice for proper function with EDS and the RSA files. Refer to the Operation Manual in the table of contents and see: "Configuring the EMC10"
6. Check the computer to peripheral Interface Cable, making sure that it is connected and not damaged at both ends.
7. Interface Cables are available in various lengths call your distributor for part numbers. The total length shouldn't exceed 200 feet for all peripherals in the network.
8. Perform the 5Volt Test according to the information in the technical manual: Power Supply (5Volt Setting)
9. The CPU PCB may be defective in the machine. Call your distributor to order the CPU PCB. Refer to the Technical Manual for replacement instructions.
10. The Computer Network Board may be improperly configured or damaged. Check EDS for proper configuration and set up.
11. If still not coming on line, call your distributor for a service call.

THE PANTOGRAPH WILL NOT MOVE WHEN SETTING HOME:

1. Check the Logic 5 volts as previously noted on page #1.
2. Try reconfiguring the EMC 10 which may help delete error's that may be in the CPU's buffer.
3. The 24 Volt side of the Power Supply may be non-functional. Check for 24 volts at the 4 Axis Diver PCB use Test Points, Red Lead on Digital Voltmeter (DVM) in TP 1 (24v), and Black on DVM in TP 4 (GND). If 24volts is not present, call your distributor for the Power Supply.
4. The X and Y motors may be damaged or inoperable. To check the motors removed the left rear cover and power off the EMC 10. Move the Pantograph back and forth and the carriage right and left slowly to see if the middle LED's on the CPU PCB will light up during the movement.
5. Check all the X & Y motor cables and connectors for connectivity.
6. Make sure all connectors are clean.

WHEN SELECTING A HOOP SIZE, THE EMC 10 ERRORS:

1. If "Machine Running" or "Run Job Error" Appears on the Display when trying to select a Hoop Size, go to the Reset Menu of the EMC 10 press Enter and "System Reset" will appear after pressing Enter a couple of times until the message shows.
2. Press Enter to reset the machine, then return to the Design Menu and set up your design to sew.

THE X OR Y AXIS OR BOTH WILL NOT MOVE WHEN TRYING TO SET HOME:

1. Try powering the machine off, wait 20 seconds, and power on again. Try setting home again.
2. Reseat the CPU & 4 Axis PCBs as outlined in the Technical Manual where it shows how to replace the 2-PCBs.
3. Test the 5 volt setting as outlined on page 1.
4. If the machine display shows "Not At Head Up", Check to see if the Needle Case is On Color Index. Use the Head Timing Menu to Go To Head Up after adjusting the needle case back on index.

THE PANTOGRAPH UNLOCKS IN MID-SEW:

1. Check to see if the garment has caught any part of the chassis, causing a stoppage. Any restrictive movement of the X or Y Axis will cause the Pantograph or the X Carriage to UNLOCK as if the motors are turned off. This is a built-in safeguard of the Software, to protect the operator and the EMC 10 from any harm, and damage to the machine.
2. If the garment did restrict the X or Y movement the results may be a Bird's Nest at the Hook Area which may cause a Z time out error.
3. Press the Stop Key and if the EMC 10 does not respond, turn off the EMC 10, wait 20 seconds and turn on. If there is no thread in the Hook Assembly or there was no Z time out error, then do a Power Fail Rescue to see if you can recover the Design. Check the Operator's Manual in Home Menu section.
4. If the problem persists and there doesn't seem to be a reason for the Pantograph to stop and unlock, Power Off the EMC 10, remove the Keyboard cover assembly located at the right side rear, and check the Y motor connectors and all Y motor Wiring, use the Parts Manual to see what the wiring to the Y motor resembles.
5. Remove the left cover from the X Motor at the left end of the black pantograph bar. Check the X-Drive Harness which is connected to the X-Motor, for connectivity, cleanliness or damage. This cable supplies the X-Motor with power and the input to produce the X movement or Carriage movement. The X Phase of the 4 Axis PCB supplies the inputs to the X-Motor that produces the X-Axis movement.
6. Check the Black & White braided cable under the long gray cover on the left side of the machine for pinches or scrapes through the insulation on the X Flex Harness (Black & White braided cable).

THE DESIGN LOSES REGISTRATION OR JUST SEWS ERRATICALLY:

1. Try re-configuring as outlined in the Operation Manual in the contents "Configuring the EMC10".
2. Next, try to use some of the information from the next 4 or 5 Error Sections as possible causes and fixes.

X OR Y RACK NOT DONE:

1. Oil the Pantograph as a first measure, if it hasn't been done lately, refer to the Operation Manual. Lubricating the EMC 10.
2. Try Reconfiguring. Refer to the Operation Manual under "Configuring the EMC10" in the contents of the manual.
3. Check all the X and Y Motor cables for damage and the connectors for proper connection, and cleanliness. Electronics stores carry a non-residue spray for cleaning electronic parts. Refer to the Parts Manual for an illustrated description of this Harness Assembly.
4. Check the Logic 5V for proper setting. See page 1& 2 of this guide.
5. Reseat the 4 Axis PCB & CPU PCBs using the information in the Technical Manual that shows how to replace these 2 PCBs.
6. Check all rubber belts connected to X or Y Motor systems for damage. They may also be too loose. See Technical Manual (EMC10) for information on checking proper belt tensions, and replacement.
7. Check for loose pulleys in the X or Y Axis systems. They could be loose on the shaft(s).
8. If none of these suggestion correct the problem call your distributor for a service call.

RACK LIMIT ERROR:

1. Select the correct hoop size in the Home Menu before starting the design.
2. Use the Trace function to help avoid this problem.
3. The Full Height Jacket Back Hoop will lose about 2 inches at the bottom of the hoop towards the front of the machine due to the depth of the hoop bracket. The only sewing field to select in the home menu for this hoop size is "All Sewing Fields" to get maximum sewing room. However, the 2 inches will still be lost at the bottom of this hoop size. Turning off "Rack Limits" will not allow any more room, as the pantograph is very near physical limits, and this is why the 2 inches are lost.
4. If Rack Limits are reached no where near the physical limits of smaller hoops & sewing fields, check the Home Menu "Hoop Selection" for the hoop size that is currently selected. If the error continues, configure the machine again using the information in the Operator's Manual. Send the design to the machine again to see if the error is fixed.
5. If not, call your distributor.

THE NEEDLE CASE TRIES TO RUN OFF TO ONE SIDE OR THE OTHER WITHOUT CONTROL OR INDICATION OF A COLOR CHANGE:

1. Check the Logic 5 Volts for proper setting. Refer to the Technical Manual.
2. Make sure the Color Change PCB is pushed all of the way down on it's 4-mounting pins. See the Technical Manual for instructions on replacement of the PCB to see how to find it, and check the mountings for the PCB, and cable connections.
3. Check the Color Change Cam for looseness. This Cam is located under the Color Change PCB. Refer to the Technical Manual (Replacement of Color Change PCB and Motor Section) to see how to remove the covers to the Color Change PCB, and the PCB itself.
4. The Color Change PCB should be changed to try to correct this problem. Refer to Technical Manual for replacement instructions.
5. If the problem persists, the problem could be caused by the 4 Axis PCB, and or Color Change Motor.
6. Past the above information, a service call is required. Call your distributor.

OFF COLOR INDEX ERROR:

1. If the Red Color Change LED that can be seen atop the Color Change PCB covers is lit, take a screw driver and insert it into the hole that is on the Left side of the covers and turn the Cam left or right slowly to get the LED to go out. See the information in the Technical Manual that shows how to replace the Color Change PCB, and it will show where to find the hole in the left side PCB cover.
2. When the LED is out the Needle Case is On Color. Now go to the Head Timing Menu press Enter, then do a simultaneous ALT & Up arrow which is for the Go To Head Up function, and should clear out the error.
3. If the Color Change LED does not go out, although you have moved the Color Change Pulley which did change the Needle Case to another needle, replace the Color Change PCB. call your distributor for the part.

CC TIME OUT:

1. If the Red Color Change LED is on, use the information from the Off Color Index section to adjust the cam to get the light to go out. This error can require a Color Change PCB replacement if the LED doesn't go out.

CC-HEAD UP ERROR:

1. The Color Index LED will more then likely be lit. Rotate the Color Change Cam using a screw driver as described in the Off Color Index section.
2. Don't forget to do the Head Up Function to set the EMC 10 at head up.

BAD CC ENCODER:

1. Make sure the machine is configured as an EMC10 using the information in the Operations Manual. Check the Table of contents for the page listing "Configuring the EMC10".
2. Check the same information used in the "Off Color Index" section.
3. Replace the Color Change Bd., after checking the Color Change Harness connection at the rear of the PCB for a good connection. Check the other end of the cable at the 4 Axis PCB. It is accessible from rear of the machine where the Interface Cable is connected. A "CC COMMAND" error may also be caused if the cable harness isn't connected correctly at either end. The other end of the harness connects to the right side of the 4 Axis PCB as if standing in front of the machine.
4. If error still shows, reseat the 4 Axis PCB using the information in the Technical Manual that shows how to replace the PCB.
5. If the problem persists, replace the 4 Axis PCB.

Z TIME OUT ERROR:

1. Check the Hook Assembly for threads or, making sure that there are no threads in or behind the Hook. Remove the threads if any, and then go to the Head Timing Menu and do an ALT Up Arrow function, Go To Head Up.
2. Check the hook area for pieces of a broken needle also if a needle broke. Make sure the UTC Sensor Arm isn't stuck in the hook either. Remove and replace the UTC if it is.
3. If the error is still present then remove the UTC/Retaining Finger and the Bobbin Case.
4. Refer to the Technical Manual for a pictorial illustration of the UTC. The retaining tab is part of the UTC.
5. Loosen the right side mounting screw, but remove the left side mounting screw and swing the UTC to the right. Take hold of the spindle where the Bobbin Case is placed. It should spin freely inside the Hook Assembly. Be careful not to rotate the outer portion of the hook very much, as the needle could come down. Do this operation with the machine powered OFF.
6. If it doesn't then, there could be either thread or a broken needle tip preventing the movement.
7. Upon inspection of the Hook Assembly you are unable to find any foreign object, remove the Hook Assembly by loosening the three set screws, do not remove them.
8. Refer to the Operation Manual for the location of the set screws. Inspect the Hook Assembly again for any object that may cause a bind. Lack of oil could also stop the hook from rotating
9. To further assist in finding the cause of the bind remove the curved bar on the out side of the Hook Assembly which is held on by 3 very small slotted screws. Remove any object that is not part of the assembly.
10. If the bind is still keeping the spindle from moving freely then replace the Hook Assembly.
11. Make sure the hook ,and sewing head have been oiled also. See the Operations Manual for instructions on how to oil the machine, and it's frequency.
12. If there is still a bind in the Z Axis, Remove the back cover at the rear of the heavy cast aluminum portion of the sewing head. Power the machine off. There are 2 pulleys with a black rubber belt attached under this cover. Try rotating the shaft left or right to see if there is still a bind. If not, the Z Encoder or Coupler may be damaged. Call your distributor, as these are usually parts that should be replaced by a trained technician.
13. Check for either of the before mentioned Z Pulleys at the rear of the sewing head to see if either is loose on the Z Shaft. If the forward of the 2 pulleys is loose, call your distributor for more information, and or service call.
14. The Trimmer Cam may have the Cam Follower lodged in the cam groove. Check the Technical Manual for the section on Trimmer Option, and corresponding reasons for Z Time-outs. The Movable Knife may also be stuck in the wrong position to be able to go home.
15. Check under the Spring Knife on the right. There is a thin piece of metal under that knife called the Under Thread Presser. If it is bent out of shape, it can cause the Movable Knife to stop short of the home position. Replace the part using the information in the Technical Manual that shows how to replace the Spring Knife, as the same 2 mounting screws secure the blade to the machine. See the Technical Manual under Trimmer Option to find the Home Position for the Movable Knife.
16. Check the Take Up Lever Cam for grease. Make sure that thread hasn't wrapped around the cam also. Use scissors to remove the thread if it is detected. If not sure how to get to the cam, call your distributor.
17. If the Take Up Lever that is engaged is higher or lower than the other 9 by at least 1/4 inch when at "Head Up", the Take Up Lever Drive Gear isn't engaged into the proper groove on that engaged Take Up Lever Gear. The Needle Case would need to be removed. Then using the Head Timing Menu, the Z Axis would need to "Go To Head Up". Then the needle case would need to be reinstalled. The Technical Manual has a section that shows Needle Case removal & reinstallation. This is not an easy operation. A service call is advised. Call your distributor.

THE INNER HOOK BASKET (SPINDLE) ROTATES WHEN THE RETAINING FINGER IS REMOVED, BUT THE Z TIME ERROR IS STILL PRESENT:

1. Power off the EMC 10 and remove the Z Drive cover, refer to the Parts Manual page P-1 item #2. Once the cover is removed there will be a pulley with a timing belt around it. Turn the pulley clockwise, and make sure the Needle Bar can be lowered and raised without any difficulty.
2. If your are unable to turn the pulley then remove the Lower Needle Case Cover and loosen the silver needle bar clamp of the needle that is located above the needle plate. Try to move the needle bar up and down, if it moves try rotating the pulley at the back of the sewing head.
3. If it still won't move check for a bent needle bar or oil all of the Needle Case Assembly. If it still doesn't turn call your distributor.
4. If the pulley rotates easily through 360 degrees continue to turn the pulley until the take up levers are all even. The engaged needle will be down.
5. Turn the machine on and go to the Head Timing Menu, press Enter. Then, do an ALT and Up Arrow which will make the machine go to head up. If it doesn't call your distributor.

THE TAKE UP LEVER MOVES UP AND DOWN, BUT THE NEEDLE BAR WON'T COME DOWN TO SEW:

1. Check the Jump Stitch Lever which is on the left side of the Needle Case. Make sure that the lever is not in the engaged position as seen in the Operation Manual.
2. Another possible cause could be the Upper Dead Stop Clamp which may not be adjusted correctly. Use the instruction in the Operation Manual, to find the Head Timing Section. The adjustments can then be found in that section right after "Needle Depth".
3. To test the Reciprocator pull the engaged needle bar down, and it should lock in the down position. If it doesn't then the Reciprocator is damaged, call your distributor.

NOT AT HEAD UP ERROR:

1. The information in the section about the Z Time Out Error will be useful to determine the cause of this error.
2. Make sure the needle case is on Color Index. Use the "Off Color Index" section for more information.

MISSED HEAD UP ERROR:

1. The information in the section about the Z Time Out Error will be useful to determine the cause of this error.
2. The Z Encoder or Coupler could be damaged. Call your distributor if the error continues past the adjustments mentioned in earlier sections of the Z Axis Troubleshooting Information.

THE SEWING QUALITY OF THE DESIGN IS JAGGED AROUND THE COLUMNS AND SOME TIMES DESIGNS ARE DISTORTED. THE COLUMNS OR DESIGN DON'T MEET THE FILLS OR OTHER OBJECTS IN THE DESIGN:

1. Check the Hooping of the garment for tightness in the sewing area. The material being used may have to much elasticity which may prevent a tight hooping. Make sure that enough backing, and the proper backing is being used and apply KK 1000 adhesive to make sure that the garment stays in place on the backing for better sew quality. This is especially useful on most knit garments or cloth.
2. Another important factor is to oil the Pantograph at intervals depending on the use of the machine. Refer to the Operation Manual.
3. Check all the X and Y Axis belts for looseness or damage. See the Technical Manual for information on checking & adjusting X or Y Axis Belt Tensions If damaged call your distributor to order the part. If the X and Y belts are determined to be too loose, call your distributor, as there may be a need for some technical help to determine the cause of the looseness. Otherwise use the Belt Tension Meter P/N 992165-01 to adjust to the correct tension. Refer to the Technical Manual for instruction on how to set the tensions.
4. The X Carriage Movement is vital to good sewing quality results. Refer to the Technical Manual for instructions how to test the X Carriage Assembly for proper movement. Instructions on how to adjust the Carriage Assembly are also found in this manual.
5. Check the Hoop Holder Actuator and Pins for damage or looseness. If they are loose, call your distributor, as the Pantograph may need to be replaced. Any damage to this area will cause bad sewing quality.
6. Check the metal part of the hoop for damage to the Pin Slots, they may be too worn or too large for the Pins causing them to be loose. Also, the wooden part of the hoop should not be cracked or damaged. Call your distributor for replacement hoops.
7. If the Full Height Jacket Back Hoop is used sew below 650 SPM. A slow speed will help the sew quality. This hoop flexes due to the weight of the hoop versus the Hoop Bracket and the strength of the Pantograph.
8. If the error is occurring while using the Cap Frame Hoop, then check the Cap Frame Driver's, Drive Ring Cable for wear or tension, and Bracket, also the Guide Bar for straightness and proper installation. If the cable can no longer be adjusted, call your distributor to order the cable.
9. As practice, do a sample sew of the design when at all possible, it will help with sew quality. This test is also good to adjust tension from the tensioners all the way to the Bobbin Thread.
10. The poor sewing quality may also be due to the X and Y Motors starting to fail or the bearings may be worn. Again call your distributor for assistance or a service call.

NO JUMP STITCH:

1. Two possible causes could be: The Jump Stitch Solenoid or the Color Change PCB. One or both could be non-functional. Turn the power off to the machine. Remove the color change covers, refer to the Technical Manual for a illustrated view of the covers. The resistance of the Jump Stitch Solenoid can be checked at the connector on the Color Change PCB. Disconnect the solenoid connector with the machine powered off. The resistance of a working solenoid is 31 ohms. If it is shorted, call your distributor to order the Jump Stitch Solenoid, and the Color Change PCB, as a shorted solenoid causes some components damage on the PCB. Check the Color Change Section of the Parts Manual to find part numbers, and order them from your distributor.
2. There are two ways to test the Jump Stitch Solenoid. First sew a 5 inch Block I. The vertical column should be smooth with no crease down the center of the I. If there is a stitch down the center of the column, the solenoid should be replaced along with the Color Change PCB.

THREAD BREAKS:

1. Needle Depth and Hook Timing should be checked first. Refer to Operation Manual for instructions how, and the specific settings to use.
2. Replace the needles if they have not been changed recently. Constant use will dull the needle tips and needle eyes have been known to form burrs. It is a good practice to change them on a regular basis.
3. The thread may also be a cause of thread breaks. If the thread is to old due to Shelf Life it could be dry or brittle which would cause thread breaks. If you must use the thread, try spraying the cone with a pure silicone spray to help remove the dry and brittleness of the thread cone. The operator must make the choice to change the thread cone if the breaks continue. Storing thread in a plastic bag in the freezer can further the shelf life of thread also.
4. Check the Thread Path for proper threading. Refer to the Operation Manual for instructions on how to thread the machine.
5. Check all thread guides for burrs or scratches. Take a piece of thread and insert the thread into each thread guide and use the dental floss method to check for burrs. If some are found, try using emery cloth to smooth them out. If the burrs are to deep to smooth out then change the guide.
6. Check the Hook Assembly for burrs which could cause a thread break. If possible smooth them out or replace the Hook Assembly. A part of checking the hook is making sure it is set correctly, check Hook Timing. Refer to the Operation Manual.
7. Check the UTC Retaining Finger for damage and proper, setting refer to the Operation or Technical Manual for instructions.
8. Inspect the Hook Assembly for cleanliness and oil the Hook Assembly every 4 operating hours. Refer to Operation Manual.
9. Thread Tension that is too tight can be a cause for thread breaks. Observe the Tensioner Thread Wheel for uneven motion while the thread is being pulled through the wheel. This would indicate that the tension is to tight. Check the Felt Pads that are on the top and bottom of the wheel for oil and wear. Replace as needed. Once a year is a good idea.
10. Check the Presser Foot Height, the bottom of the Presser Foot should not be hitting the needle plate while sewing. The height of the Presser Foot is determined by the Needle Case Damper, a Shim and a Felt Pad. Refer to the Technical Manual for an illustrated view of these parts. If one or any of these three part are missing, they can be ordered through your distributor.
11. Check the Needle Plate hole for burrs both on the top and underside. Make sure the needle is not hitting any part of the Needle Plate, and centered in the needle plate hole. Use the Head Timing Menu to bring needle down to check this setting. The Operations Manual shows how to bring the needle bar to needle depth to be able to check Needle Plate Hole Centering.
12. Check the Take Up Lever for excess movement. Take the Pick Up Lever that is engaged and try to move it up and down, if it moves over 1/4 of an inch, there may be teeth missing off of the Take Up Lever Drive Gear or the individual take up lever itself, or they may just be worn.
13. The meshing of these two gears is another possible cause. If either wear or not meshing of the gears is detected call your distributor.
14. Incorrect Needle Depth and Hook Timing can cause thread breaks. Hitting a Hoop or getting Bird Nesting or even breaking a needle could change the Needle Depth and Hook Timing, so make sure they are correct.
15. The design may be a cause due to the density. This may happen on small letters in sizes .50 inch down to .25 inch. The default setting in EDS is 4.2 which is 60 stitches per inch. This density will produce 3 needle strikes in the same needle hole which can cause thread breaks. Even a large design if it is to dense in stitch count could be a problem. The most apparent is the reduction of a design by the operator.
16. If an Expanded Design is used, the stitch density can not be reduced. Refer to your EDS Manual for information about Design Density. Sew the design at a slower speed trying 500 to 550 SPM.
17. The eye size of the needle can make a difference. If the thread is breaking to often try using a larger eyed needle. If a 70/10 size needle is being used, switch to a 75/11 or 80/12 to allow for the thread thickness and the density of the design.
18. Make sure the thread is correctly threaded, refer to the Operation Manual page 2-4 for instruction. Check the thread tension it may be too tight. Refer to the Operation Manual page 2-7 for instruction on how to adjust the bobbin and the upper Tensioners. If bobbin tension keep varying after setting, change the bobbin case, as it could be a cause for poor sew quality and thread breaks.
19. Use adequate backing. An inadequate amount of backing may allow part of the garment to be pulled down into the needle plate hole, thus causing a threads break. One piece of Tear Away backing may not be good enough for a sweat shirt. The purpose of backing is the help support and stabilize the material during the sew out.

FALSE THREAD BREAKS:

1. Make sure that the Thread Break Take Up Spring is away from the Thread Break Post during the sew. This spring is located on the left side of the Tensioner. Make sure the whole thread path is threaded correctly.
2. Check the Thread Break Brush for proper adjustment.
3. Refer to the Technical Manual for instruction on how to adjust the brush. Refer to the Technical Manual for instructions on how to replace the Thread Break Wiper Brush. Also associated with replacement of the Color Change Bd.

LOOPING & BIRD NESTING:

1. Looping can be caused by thread tensions that are to loose and it can happen on the top or bottom of the design. Both the Bobbin and Tensioners could be the cause. Check to see if the problem is the tensioners by turning the tensioner knobs two (2) turns to the right to (Tighten) and see if it corrects the looping. Don't forget to check the bobbin for proper tension.
2. Check the Black Tensioner Knobs for looseness on the Tensioner Post. The Tensioner Post is threaded and has a machined out slot in the middle of the shaft.
3. If the knob is too loose, remove the knob insert the flat blade of a screw driver into the slot and spread it slightly, then install the knob again check for the tightness of the knob.
4. The density of the design may have an affect on both of these problems. If the design density is to tight the needle may have a hard time penetrating the material and the thread may be pulled from the needle due to the tightness. Refer to your EDS Manual for information on Design Density. The density of small alphabet letters may be a cause also.
5. If sewing small letters the 4.2 default density is to high for letters ranging from .50 inch or smaller. If using a Premier Keyboard for the controller, refer to the Premier Manual for proper density settings.
6. The needle eye size can have an effect on both of these problems. If the density of a design is to high or the cloth is to elastic, change up to a larger eyed needle.
7. For instance: If the needle currently being used is a 70/10 size needle, switch to a 75/11 or even a 80/12 size needle. This larger eyed needle will allow for smoother passage of the thread through the eye of the needle.
8. Most thread being used is 40 gauge. If 30 gauge thread is being used a larger eyed needle is required, example 80/12 would be a size to start with. If Metallic thread is being used at least an 80/12 size needle should be used but if your garment permits, it is recommended to use a 90/14 size needle.
9. Make sure that the Retaining Finger of the UTC Assembly is properly positioned in the Inner Basket Indentation. Refer to the Operation Manual for an illustrated view.
10. There are some upgraded thread guides that can improve the smoothness of movement for thread when sewing. Call your distributor for information. Most "CE" version machines will already have the upgrades.

CAP FRAME IN:

1. This error will appear on the display if trying to set home with the Cap Frame Driver installed.
2. If the Cap Frame Driver is not installed, then the contact or switch on the mount that indicates the driver is installed is defective or bent so it isn't making contact. Call you distributor for parts if damaged.

THE CAP FRAME IS POPPING OFF OF THE CAP FRAME DRIVER OR THE DESIGN IS BEING FLATTENED OUT NEAR AN EDGE OF THE CAP FRAME SEWING FIELD:

1. Make sure that the Cap Frame Driver shaft is pushed in so that the metal collar is flush against the Rear Cap Frame Bracket and the Dove Tail Mount is properly installed in the Dove Tail Bracket. Make sure that the thumb screw is tightened and the shaft will not move back or forth. Refer to the Operation Manual for instructions.
2. Check the cables attached to the Cap Frame Driver for looseness. If the Drive Bracket can be pulled out of it's grooves then the cables are loose.
3. If the cables are loose they can be adjusted by loosening the two socket head cap screw that are located at each end of the Driver Bracket. Loosen one side only and push the Cable Bracket out till the cables are tight.
4. If the cables are tightened too much they may bow the Driver Bracket. If the cables have stretched to the point that after adjusting both Cable Bracket the looseness can not be taken out then replace the cables.
5. The needle plate can also cause the Cap Frame to pop off. Check the needle plate for wear marks and nicks along the front and side edges that may have been caused by the Cap Frame.
6. If there is evidence, then power off the machine and leave only the Cap Frame Driver installed in the Pantograph. Pull the Pantograph forward so that the front arc of the Cap Frame Driver is over the side edges of the Needle Plate.
7. Center the driver and turn it left and right to see if the front arc of the driver touches either side of the Needle Plate.
8. If it does the Driver may be warped or the cables may be too loose. The Driver must clear the Needle Plate by at least 1/16 of an inch to be correct. Check the Rear Cap Frame Bracket for looseness or any thing in that area that may cause the Cap Frame to pop out.
9. Check the Cap Frame Driver Roll Clips for wear, damage or looseness, replace as needed.
10. Check the Cap Frame for damaged parts and the proper arc of the Weldment Frame. The Weldment Frame has a piece of metal that is used as support at the front and underneath the frame. This part can cause the Cap Frame to pop off if it hits the Needle Plate.
11. Check the X-Axis carriage for play in the X-Carriage Rollers or loose Hoop Holder pins. Refer to the Technical Manual how to adjust the X-Carriage Rollers.
12. Make Sure the Cap Frame Hoop Mounting Bar is riding in the arced groove. If not place the bar back in the groove. The bar can cause a tight bind if the bar is outside of the groove.
13. The Cap Frame can be bent inwards, so that the arc of the cap frame is smaller. This will cause the edges to hit or rub on the needle plate. Set the Cap Frame on a table. Hold down on the right side of the frame, and pull up slightly to slightly widen the arc so it does miss the needle plate by very little. This is an un-scientific way of fixing the problem, but it will work if the cap frame is bent inwards.

APPLICATION RUN ERROR:

1. The EMC 10 tried to Down Load the RSA Files and it was not able to. Power off the EMC 10 and on again to retry the Down Load function.
2. If the last operation doesn't work, configure the machine again using the information in the Operations Manual (Configuring the EMC10).
3. If it still does not work then check the Data Cable coming from the computer for connectivity and make sure that it is inserted into the correct port of the CPU PCB.
4. Power the computer down in a normal fashion, and power it up again after about 20seconds. Go back into EDS, and see if the problem goes away. This does not apply to the Premier Keyboard.
5. If not, try reloading the RSA files, and try booting again.
6. If still a problem, order a CPU PCB for the embroidery machine from your distributor.

TRIMMER NOT HOME:

1. Check under the needle plate for thread build up, as it can stop the Movable Knife from moving to the Home Position. Remove the excess if it is present.
2. Check the Under Thread Presser as seen in the Technical Manual (Trimmer Option Section)
3. Use the section in the Technical Manual under "Trimmer Options" to check proper positioning of the Movable Knife with the Trimmer Cam positioning, and the Cam Follower for proper Movable Knife Home Position.
4. If the Cam Follower is stuck inside the cam, the blade often times won't move to the home position. It can also stop Indicator from becoming properly positioned for the home position seen in the Technical Manual. (Trimmer Options Section)
5. If the Cam Follower won't pull out of the cam, power the machine off. Remove the Z Motor Cover seen in the Parts Manual. Rotate the Shaft Pulley, seen in the Technical Manual, left & right, and apply slight pressure to the Cam Follower Pin to see if the pin will pop back out of the cam.
6. If it won't, the Cam Follower Bracket may be worn. Call your distributor for a service call if this is evident.
7. Check to see if the Connecting Link is still connected to the Movable Knife. If it isn't, remove the Front Bed Plate, and place the Connecting Link back on the Movable Knife Drive Arm Front Pin, as seen in the Technical Manual. (Trimmer Option Section)
8. Check the Connecting Link Drive Block Screws to see if they are tight when the Movable Knife is at the Home Position, as seen in the Technical Manual. (Trimmer Option Section)
9. Power the machine down. Check to see if the Photo Sensor is clean by using a Q-Tip and Rubbing Alcohol.
10. Use the instructions listed in the Technical Manual to see the whole procedure for checking the Movable Knife Home Position. (Trimmer Option Section)
11. Make sure the UTC seen in the Operator's Manual (Head Timing Section) isn't stopping the Movable Knife from moving to the Home Position. If it is, adjust it to it's proper position according to the information. If the UTC Sensor Arm is bent out of normal shape, and can't be fixed, call your distributor for a replacement or service call.
12. Clean the Optical Sensor shown in the section of the Trimmer Option that shows the information relating to the Movable Knife Home Position. Clean the slit in the sensor with a piece of cloth, and rubbing alcohol.

TRIMMER SYSTEM NOT TRIMMING THREAD (TOP OR BOBBIN):

1. Check the Technical Manual to determine what part of the Trimmer System is causing the error. (Trimmer Option Section)
2. Inadequate or too tight Thread Tensions can cause the trimmer system not to cut thread correctly. If the thread tension is too loose, the trimmer blades won't select the thread to be cut or miss it. It may also cause frayed cuts.
3. If the Thread Tension at the main black knob tensioners or on the Bobbin Case is too tight, it will cause the thread to pop out of the needle or bobbin to pop back so that it is too short to be picked when the machine resumes sewing after a trim. This will register as a THREAD BREAK.
4. Select Timing may be off. check the Technical Manual to see how this is done. It is suggested that a trained technician perform this operation. (Trimmer Option Section)
5. Call your distributor if the machine still either won't trim consistently or at all.

GRABBER NOT HOME:

1. The top thread may not be trimmed under the needle plate. This will cause the Grabber to stay partially extended, and the error will show.
2. Check the Technical Manual to see proper alignment of the Grabber System, because if the thread is cut, and the error persists mis-alignment of the system can also cause the error.
3. If the Grabber moves too slow back to the home position, the Grabber Blade may be binding. Power the machine off, and rotate the Grabber Limit Stop Assembly to see if a bind can be detected. If so remove the covers seen in the Parts Manual. Check the Grabber Blade for bends or the covers for wear.
4. Check the Grabber Motor Assembly to se if the Grabber System operates smoothly by operating the Motor Limit Stop Assembly as seen in the Technical Manual. (Trimmer Option Section)
5. If the Grabber Motor operates slowly, check the screws that hold the wiring to the Grabber Motor to see if they are loose. Tighten them if they are.
6. If the motor still operates slowly, call your distributor, as a trained technician will need to replace the motor.
7. If the Grabber Motor doesn't operate at all at a trim or trim immediate, call your distributor to replace the 4 Axis PCB. If the motor still doesn't operate, call your distributor for a service call.

PICKER STAYS IN AFTER A TRIM:

1. Check the two tines on the Picker for burrs, as thread will catch these, and cause the thread cause the hook to wrap thread around it. The resulting error is a Z Time Out Error.
2. If there are no burrs on the Picker, use the EMC10 Technical Manual to check and adjust the various Picker positions that are necessary for proper operation. Call your distributor to order the Picker Fixture.

PICKER DOESN'T PICK UP THE THREAD, CAUSING SHORT TAILS, NO TAILS, AND LONG TAILS AFTER A TRIM:

1. Check the same pages in the technical manual as mentioned above.
2. Thread tensions can aid in this problem also. If thread tensions are too tight Short Tails can be a problem. Make sure the Main Black Knob Tensioners are allowing the silver tension wheel to turn freely. If they aren't, reduce tension by rotating the knob counter-clockwise or to the left about 2 full turns so that the original tension setting isn't affected enough to change the tension drastically
3. Thread tensions that are too loose can cause long tails also. Try tightening the thread tension at the Main Black Knob Tensioners by 2 turns clockwise at a time or to the right.
4. Check the Bobbin Case to make sure that the Bobbin Tension isn't too tight. If the tension is too tight, the top colored thread may sling shot right out of eye of the needle. This will cause a thread break when the machine continues to sew, as the needle will not have thread in it.

THE COLORED THREAD PULLS OUT OF THE NEEDLE AFTER A TRIM CAUSING A THREAD BREAK:

1. This error is caused by all of the information mentioned in the section before. Use the suggested tips to try to solve this problem.
2. Check the Under Thread Presser as seen in the Technical Manual. Replace the part if the profile of the part is the same as the damaged one shown in the figure. Call your distributor for a replacement.
3. Make sure the Velcro that the that the Grabber pulls the thread through isn't worn or torn away from it's mounts.
4. Make sure the Grabber is moving, and catching the thread at a trim cycle.
5. Check the Picker at a normal trim cycle or trim immediate to see if it is moving.
6. Check the tails that are trimmed to see if the cut is frayed or a clean cut.
7. If the tail is frayed, check the cutting ability of the Spring Knife as shown in the Technical Manual (Trimmer Option Section) to see if the blade is cutting properly. Replace the Spring Knife, and Movable Knife if the cut is still frayed during the test. Call your distributor to order parts.
8. Call your distributor for a service call if the error continues.

WIDE ANGLE CAP FRAME (WACF):

1. Cap Frame is binding, moving forward, back or side to side. Make sure Cap Supports or "Wings" are extended out far enough to allow for smooth movement. NOTE: There are new "Small Cap Supports" that come in a kit with part number 10868. They will accommodate low crowned caps easier.
2. Make sure that the Stabilizers are just barely away from the needle plate, and centered on the needle plate hole.
3. Oil the shafts according to the schedule shown in the manual.
4. Check all other adjustments outlined in the set-up portion of the WACF Manual. The instructional video tape that can help in checking proper installation is a good source of information. The part number is: 10318. It may be ordered through your distributor.
5. Make sure that the design being set up is digitized for WACF use, as an improperly digitized design can cause design to sew out with distortion.
6. Make sure the design is not to tall in Y Axis to fit the sewing field. See Technical Advisory Bulletin (WACF-002, Rev A)
7. There was an upgrade that involved replacing the WACF Driver Shafts. If the mounting screws that hold the front cap frame mount or "Dovetail" on to the shafts don't pass all of the way through the mount with nuts on the outside, there are parts that come in a kit to replace the old style shafts. The Part Number for the kit is: 011224-01. The kit can be ordered through your distributor. One kit is needed per WACF- Driver. The upgrade improves the stability of the WACF-Driver.
8. If the disk like stiffener is used for caps, it will cause a loss of sewing field in the Y Axis or top to bottom for un-structured caps.
9. There is no need for the raised needle plate when using the WACF. It is constructed so that the flat needle plate is all that is needed.

Return to Top